Harness tranny/oil pressure sensor/... rebuild!?
#1
Harness tranny/oil pressure sensor/... rebuild!?
Hi there!
As I am preparing my engine and tranny for a refit (which will happen next year as it looks now...) I noticed, that the rear harness, the one that connects the oil pressure sensor, reverse switch and co (I think the kickdown switch aswell!?) is extremely brittle and is cracking.
I can't find/locate the correct parts number. Is this available new or must I rebuild it? I doubt it will be a problem to rebuild, but I want to try to keep it original...
What are your opinions?
Cheers
Damien
As I am preparing my engine and tranny for a refit (which will happen next year as it looks now...) I noticed, that the rear harness, the one that connects the oil pressure sensor, reverse switch and co (I think the kickdown switch aswell!?) is extremely brittle and is cracking.
I can't find/locate the correct parts number. Is this available new or must I rebuild it? I doubt it will be a problem to rebuild, but I want to try to keep it original...
What are your opinions?
Cheers
Damien
#2
The following users liked this post:
Daim (10-08-2016)
#3
Damien, you can rebuild the harness yourself. Use GXL wire, which is a higher temperature automotive wire that won't go brittle.
Cut the wires from the connectors about 50mm from the connector. Cut some heatshrink tube and strip the wires about 15-20mm and solder them together.
DO NOT use electrical tape to wrap the joint, use heatshrink. Tape will eventually come off.
Here is a good video on how to join wires. I use both methods depending on the wire type, thicker wire I interlock and thinner wire I twist. I also use needle nose pliers as soon as I have soldered to lightly squeeze the solder joint, this does 2 things, 1 cools the joint quickly reducing the heat soak into the insulation, 2 removes and sharp bits that may pierce the heatshrink.
Cut the wires from the connectors about 50mm from the connector. Cut some heatshrink tube and strip the wires about 15-20mm and solder them together.
DO NOT use electrical tape to wrap the joint, use heatshrink. Tape will eventually come off.
Here is a good video on how to join wires. I use both methods depending on the wire type, thicker wire I interlock and thinner wire I twist. I also use needle nose pliers as soon as I have soldered to lightly squeeze the solder joint, this does 2 things, 1 cools the joint quickly reducing the heat soak into the insulation, 2 removes and sharp bits that may pierce the heatshrink.
The following 2 users liked this post by warrjon:
Daim (10-08-2016),
someguywithajag (10-16-2016)
#4
#5
If its inside the car I use a general purpose automotive connector, these are cheap and reliable if not subject to weather and dirt.
Outside I would definitely use a sealed automotive or military connector.
I replaced these a few years ago as they were full of old coolant from a leaky heater core.
Outside I would definitely use a sealed automotive or military connector.
I replaced these a few years ago as they were full of old coolant from a leaky heater core.
#6
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Peter Jones
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
2
08-24-2016 08:12 PM
WTT[UnitedKingdom]: Genuine 20" Kasuga Alloys with Pressure Sensors & Tyres
Pana89
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade or Buy Classifieds
0
08-24-2016 12:10 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)