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I have a leak at the white plastic thingy below the ports at the rear cover. I have looked for a spare part overview without luck.
Can you point me in right direction?
If that is what I think it is, in that slot on the one that was originally on my car, there sat a pressure valve of some sort that sent a signal that the system was pressurized... What I seem to remember was a circlip with a rubber bushing/seal/washer for the seal pressed under the sensor to seal it. Maybe something like that?
Does that thing still work for you, when it works? I tried to fix mine, reseal it, but no dice...
The only electrical connection I have to my compressor are the 2 wires to activate the clutch. It worked until I lost charge due to permeation through the HP hose.
It may well be that the workshop making the ‘89 HE engine function in the ‘77 car back in ‘96 has made some shortcut here and ‘forgotten’ to include the switch in the control circuit.
Is it a rear cover off job to access the circlip and try to seal it ?
Plastic cover is just clicked on. Pry of
Circlip off after releasing the pressure I had in for bubble leak search…
Pull out some unit
Get o-ring out. Completely dead by compression setting, no preload left
My guess on correct size is 22x2,62 mm
Plastic cover is just clicked on. Pry of
Circlip off after releasing the pressure I had in for bubble leak search…
Pull out some unit
Get o-ring out. Completely dead by compression setting, no preload left
My guess on correct size is 22x2,62 mm
Wow. Right. Good! Good digging!
Oring sizes drive me batty...
It was a common ac appliance.
Maybe you can find a diagram for the spec?
Google "Superheat Switch for A6 Compressor". They're out there.
If the 1989 compressor was used it would have an "HSLP Switch" (High Side Low Pressure) which looks similar at a glance (with the white plastic removed) but is entirely different in function.
Google "Superheat Switch for A6 Compressor". They're out there.
If the 1989 compressor was used it would have an "HSLP Switch" (High Side Low Pressure) which looks similar at a glance (with the white plastic removed) but is entirely different in function.
Thanks a lot Doug
I had to know what to Google for before I could do it !
To Jay: I design refrigerant valves as a living, so I’m pretty good at O-ring build in dimensions. The old o-ring measured 2.25, and as it was at zero preload, that will be close to the groove depth as well. Using a 2.62 o-ring will then result in 16-17% compression, which will be fine for sealing.
I had to know what to Google for before I could do it !
To Jay: I design refrigerant valves as a living, so I’m pretty good at O-ring build in dimensions. The old o-ring measured 2.25, and as it was at zero preload, that will be close to the groove depth as well. Using a 2.62 o-ring will then result in 16-17% compression, which will be fine for sealing.
For a LIVING!? I need you in my life, lol...
Does the idea extend to fitting OTHER Orings, if the dimensions of what they sleeve or seal are given? Have to ask!
Does the idea extend to fitting OTHER Orings, if the dimensions of what they sleeve or seal are given? Have to ask!
It's far less exiting than it may sound, but yes, I'm a mechanical engineer and works with new product development of (mainly) refrigeration valves. Mainly solenoid valves and expansion valves.
And yes, you can extend that to other places where O-ring is used for static (not moving) seals. Compression rate of 20-25% of the o-ring section diameter is what we normally aim for,
It's far less exiting than it may sound, but yes, I'm a mechanical engineer and works with new product development of (mainly) refrigeration valves. Mainly solenoid valves and expansion valves.
And yes, you can extend that to other places where O-ring is used for static (not moving) seals. Compression rate of 20-25% of the o-ring section diameter is what we normally aim for,
Great! Thank you. I've run into situations where I have not know what to do about off the shelf or aftermarket oring situations... I'll read this now and save it! Thanks again!
While you have the end off and the system discharged, I'd replace the retaining plate that holds the hoses to the compressor. The plate is notorious for bending when mechanics over tighten the bolt.
The plate used in the 1970's GM cars was about twice as thick as the Jaguar plate. It will just fit with the cruise bellows bracket in place. The thicker plate will also not bend. So far every Jaguar I've had with the A6 I have changed to a thick plate and no more leaks from that location.
While you have the end off and the system discharged, I'd replace the retaining plate that holds the hoses to the compressor. The plate is notorious for bending when mechanics over tighten the bolt.
The plate used in the 1970's GM cars was about twice as thick as the Jaguar plate. It will just fit with the cruise bellows bracket in place. The thicker plate will also not bend. So far every Jaguar I've had with the A6 I have changed to a thick plate and no more leaks from that location.
Thanks for the input.
No cruise on the PreHE, so that’s not a worry. My plate is around 5mm thick and does not seem to be bent. I have just changed the o-rings here in our search for the leak, and it was not leaking even with old o-rings with some compression set, so I believe. I’m good as is.
Going for recharge later today, fingers crossed…
07-27-2022, 11:13 AM
