Head light ?
#1
#2
On the one piece single headlight (Euro lights so called) the bulb is a twin filament H4, one filament does main beam, one does dipped.
On the twin headlight setup, the outermost light is an H4, the inner ones H1 (which do main beam only).
For instance:
H4:
H1:
If you have the 4 headlight setup with the originally fitted US spec "glow worm" sealed beam units, then change them for modern round headlight units that take the above bulbs, and you will be astonished how good they are.
Greg
On the twin headlight setup, the outermost light is an H4, the inner ones H1 (which do main beam only).
For instance:
H4:
H1:
If you have the 4 headlight setup with the originally fitted US spec "glow worm" sealed beam units, then change them for modern round headlight units that take the above bulbs, and you will be astonished how good they are.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 02-25-2016 at 12:39 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg in France:
Grant Francis (02-25-2016),
macdoesit (02-25-2016)
#3
Unless a previous owner has changed things, your US Spec 1990 has sealed beam lights.
Changing to a better system (including relays) is a good idea, but if your state inspection checks such things, you may want to be sure you're "backwards compatible". Daniel Stern Lighting has a great deal of information.
Changing to a better system (including relays) is a good idea, but if your state inspection checks such things, you may want to be sure you're "backwards compatible". Daniel Stern Lighting has a great deal of information.
The following users liked this post:
macdoesit (02-25-2016)
#4
Before you buy, check the wattage of the bulbs. All things being equal the same watts produce the same lumens. Bulbs that have coatings on the glass actually reduce the projected lumens because they are designed to "Filter" out part of the light spectrum. If you want to improve your visibility you need a higher wattage and a better focused beam through the lens. Look at off road headlights. I have replaced the 55 watt for 65 watt bulbs in my wife's 99XJ8. She can tell the difference.
Last edited by RonaldP; 02-25-2016 at 11:33 AM.
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macdoesit (02-25-2016)
#5
#6
Before you buy, check the wattage of the bulbs. All things being equal the same watts produce the same lumens. Bulbs that have coatings on the glass actually reduce the projected lumens because they are designed to "Filter" out part of the light spectrum. If you want to improve your visibility you need a higher wattage and a better focused beam through the lens. Look at off road headlights. I have replaced the 55 watt for 65 watt bulbs in my wife's 99XJ8. She can tell the difference.
Greg
The following users liked this post:
macdoesit (02-25-2016)
#7
Greg
The following users liked this post:
macdoesit (02-25-2016)
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#8
Ok, you need an H1 and an H4 bulb each side. To check what your lights are, remove the chrome covers, loosen the fixing ring screws a touch and turn the fixing ring so the ring can come off. Then, if the things are sealed beams, you will see that the filament is a a fused in part of the glass headlight, and there is no removable bulb. Buy some more headlight units that take the bulb concerned (H4 and H1, they have different bulb fixings and glass) and they go straight in. You may have to connect different bulb connectors to the loom, but these are sold everywhere.
Greg
Greg
Thank you Greg, do you know where I can get chrome fender trim for the 1990 XJS ?
#9
If you have sealed beam, easy to check. Look through the glass, if you don't see a glass bulb inside then you will need to replace the complete light. If you see a bulb you need to take a flash light and point it into the wheel well at the back of the light. There you will see a panel that you open and take out the bulb.
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macdoesit (02-25-2016)
#10
If you have sealed beam, easy to check. Look through the glass, if you don't see a glass bulb inside then you will need to replace the complete light. If you see a bulb you need to take a flash light and point it into the wheel well at the back of the light. There you will see a panel that you open and take out the bulb.
Greg
#11
You might do, but this change putting an access hole in the wheelwell baffle happened only quite late on, I think. The facelifts have them, but not most of the pre-facelifts. Also, it really only applies to the Euro one-piece headlights. The four headlights are much more easily accessed as explained above.
Greg
Greg
Do you know where I can get the chrome fender trim ?
Thank you
#12
On UK ebay there are loads, also Uk specialist breakers: grublogger, Just XJS, for example. They are not that heavy so postage, if no US breakers have any, will not be too bad. Decent ones are pricey though, and NLA from Jaguar. A re-chrome may be able to do a decent job for you?
Greg
Greg
The following users liked this post:
macdoesit (02-27-2016)
#13
On UK ebay there are loads, also Uk specialist breakers: grublogger, Just XJS, for example. They are not that heavy so postage, if no US breakers have any, will not be too bad. Decent ones are pricey though, and NLA from Jaguar. A re-chrome may be able to do a decent job for you?
Greg
Greg
I'm not very good on a computer, is there a website in US or UK that you can direct me to. I tried grublogger did not get anything. Thank you.
#14
http://signin.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAP...00720001100003
Enter Jaguar XJS bumper chromes in the Ebay search box
Just make sure you buy the correct ones for your car, facelift bumper chromes are not the same as pre- facelifts.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 02-27-2016 at 02:12 PM.
The following users liked this post:
macdoesit (02-27-2016)
#16
I just bought 1990 Jaguar XJS 2DR convertible 2" wide Chrome Wheel well opening Moldings Fender Trim on ebay. They are polished stainless steel 89 dollars plus 20 dollars shipping.
Last edited by macdoesit; 02-27-2016 at 08:34 PM.
#17
#18
I also have a almost mint 1999 Mercedes SL500 Red 61,000 miles.
Love both of them.
I figured 22.75 each was fair price, I would have paid more because I wanted them.
The jag gets more compliments than the Mercedes. People think it's just a little red car. LOL
Last edited by macdoesit; 02-27-2016 at 11:54 PM.
#19
OK... I was going to ask you to post a close up photo of the light itself, in order to see what the "creases" in the bulb look like. That would tell me if a previous owner updated from stock.
Greg in France would be absolutely correct on the H1/H4 mix, if those were upgraded lenses. But nothing in your post makes me think the original owner upgraded.
Here is the easiest way to tell:
Look at the lens. If you see the letters "DOT", and/or if you see three little humps used to place an aiming unit on the lens, then you have sealed beams.
If instead you see the letter E with a number next to it (i.e. E1), they are not DOT certified and are probably the H1/H4 mix... unless the person who upgraded just punted and put H4s on both sides. Either way, you'll know when you pull the bulb.
Of course, if they are sealed beams, then you may want to upgrade yourself, and in this case, the lack of a state inspection will help. More information can be found on Daniel Stern's site, and you may also want to read Mr. Palm's book in the headlight section.
Bottom line: Look for DOT and the aiming bumps. if they are there, a sealed beam will get you on your way. If you decide to upgrade, all the information on this page is helpful. If, on the other hand, you do not have DOT lights, we will need more information.
One more question: What bulb did the auto parts store give you (i.e. 9004, 9007, etc.)?
Hope this helps, at least on the lights. As far as the fender trim, well... you're on your own with that one!
Greg in France would be absolutely correct on the H1/H4 mix, if those were upgraded lenses. But nothing in your post makes me think the original owner upgraded.
Here is the easiest way to tell:
Look at the lens. If you see the letters "DOT", and/or if you see three little humps used to place an aiming unit on the lens, then you have sealed beams.
If instead you see the letter E with a number next to it (i.e. E1), they are not DOT certified and are probably the H1/H4 mix... unless the person who upgraded just punted and put H4s on both sides. Either way, you'll know when you pull the bulb.
Of course, if they are sealed beams, then you may want to upgrade yourself, and in this case, the lack of a state inspection will help. More information can be found on Daniel Stern's site, and you may also want to read Mr. Palm's book in the headlight section.
Bottom line: Look for DOT and the aiming bumps. if they are there, a sealed beam will get you on your way. If you decide to upgrade, all the information on this page is helpful. If, on the other hand, you do not have DOT lights, we will need more information.
One more question: What bulb did the auto parts store give you (i.e. 9004, 9007, etc.)?
Hope this helps, at least on the lights. As far as the fender trim, well... you're on your own with that one!
The following users liked this post:
macdoesit (02-28-2016)
#20
OK... I was going to ask you to post a close up photo of the light itself, in order to see what the "creases" in the bulb look like. That would tell me if a previous owner updated from stock.
Greg in France would be absolutely correct on the H1/H4 mix, if those were upgraded lenses. But nothing in your post makes me think the original owner upgraded.
Here is the easiest way to tell:
Look at the lens. If you see the letters "DOT", and/or if you see three little humps used to place an aiming unit on the lens, then you have sealed beams.
If instead you see the letter E with a number next to it (i.e. E1), they are not DOT certified and are probably the H1/H4 mix... unless the person who upgraded just punted and put H4s on both sides. Either way, you'll know when you pull the bulb.
Of course, if they are sealed beams, then you may want to upgrade yourself, and in this case, the lack of a state inspection will help. More information can be found on Daniel Stern's site, and you may also want to read Mr. Palm's book in the headlight section.
Bottom line: Look for DOT and the aiming bumps. if they are there, a sealed beam will get you on your way. If you decide to upgrade, all the information on this page is helpful. If, on the other hand, you do not have DOT lights, we will need more information.
One more question: What bulb did the auto parts store give you (i.e. 9004, 9007, etc.)?
Hope this helps, at least on the lights. As far as the fender trim, well... you're on your own with that one!
Greg in France would be absolutely correct on the H1/H4 mix, if those were upgraded lenses. But nothing in your post makes me think the original owner upgraded.
Here is the easiest way to tell:
Look at the lens. If you see the letters "DOT", and/or if you see three little humps used to place an aiming unit on the lens, then you have sealed beams.
If instead you see the letter E with a number next to it (i.e. E1), they are not DOT certified and are probably the H1/H4 mix... unless the person who upgraded just punted and put H4s on both sides. Either way, you'll know when you pull the bulb.
Of course, if they are sealed beams, then you may want to upgrade yourself, and in this case, the lack of a state inspection will help. More information can be found on Daniel Stern's site, and you may also want to read Mr. Palm's book in the headlight section.
Bottom line: Look for DOT and the aiming bumps. if they are there, a sealed beam will get you on your way. If you decide to upgrade, all the information on this page is helpful. If, on the other hand, you do not have DOT lights, we will need more information.
One more question: What bulb did the auto parts store give you (i.e. 9004, 9007, etc.)?
Hope this helps, at least on the lights. As far as the fender trim, well... you're on your own with that one!
I will go out later today and check for the DOT, it is in a detached garage away from the house. Thank you for the info.