When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys I just picked up a 1995 XJS convertible with the euro oval headlights ( I hate it ) I have a few other cars and i was wondering, if I could swap them over to the double lights from my donor being a 1989 xjs coupe. Any advice is appreciated
Hey guys I just picked up a 1995 XJS convertible with the euro oval headlights ( I hate it ) I have a few other cars and i was wondering, if I could swap them over to the double lights from my donor being a 1989 xjs coupe. Any advice is appreciated
I
I've heard yes! What's stopping ya from just going ahead and giving it a try? The 4 individual style, at least (all I have experience with) are easy to get in and out. All of 20, 30 minutes. Are the ovals easy to remove?
It’s funny, I went back and forth on the headlights. Initially, when I first saw XJS with singles, I loved them. Then I saw XJS with doubles, and I loved them too. Since then, there were times when I wished to have singles on. At other times, I want doubles. Would be cool if it were as easy as putting a different pair of glasses on... Still, not too difficult, as others mentioned
From what I recall the swap opens up the can of worms.
Since the 95 has light failure circuitry how will you mitigate that.
You only have one connector on the 95 so you'll have to splice in new plugs.
The brackets holding the assemblies are different so you'll need the ones from the quad setup.
You'll also need the quad bezels.
The quads have a higher amperage draw so you'll need to use new relays.
From what I recall the swap opens up the can of worms.
Since the 95 has light failure circuitry how will you mitigate that.
You only have one connector on the 95 so you'll have to splice in new plugs.
The brackets holding the assemblies are different so you'll need the ones from the quad setup.
You'll also need the quad bezels.
The quads have a higher amperage draw so you'll need to use new relays.
From what I recall the swap opens up the can of worms.
Since the 95 has light failure circuitry how will you mitigate that.
You only have one connector on the 95 so you'll have to splice in new plugs.
The brackets holding the assemblies are different so you'll need the ones from the quad setup.
You'll also need the quad bezels.
The quads have a higher amperage draw so you'll need to use new relays.
I cannot answer for the facelift cars, but on pre facelifts the light-out failure circuit does not include the headlamps. Second, as the poster has a quad car to take theb lights from, he will have the OEM loom extensions available, they are just plug-in to a bullet connector. Ditto the bracketry for the quads which also just bolts into existing captives. The relays will handle the current, the fuse should be beefed up to 20 amps.
All done from start to finish including removal of donor lights, removal of stock euros, wiring and new install 2 hours and 15 min. Only one setback, the Euro lights have a corner bulb in them with 1 red wire and two black wires, Have no idea what to do with the red wire and because of that, my lamp fail light on my dash is on all lights work perfect... Any input is appreciated....
Kriss,
You wrote "Only one setback, the Euro lights have a corner bulb in them with 1 red wire and two black wires, Have no idea what to do with the red wire and because of that, my lamp fail light on my dash is on all lights work perfect... Any input is appreciated"
The system works as follows: on the coupe the orange marker lights on the front end of the sides of the car, one of which is just visible on the left of the photo in your first photo in post 1, come on with the side lights (switch position 1).
On your convertible, the euro lights (as there seems to be no orange marker lights) probably had a small bulb set into the reflector, which would come on with the sidelights.
Now you have fitted the twins, I am betting that the outer reflector did NOT have a hole to accept the small bulb that was previously on the euros. Hence the lamp failure light stays on, as the system is looking for extra current. No idea about ypur location, but in most markets sidelights are necessary.
Anyway, to fix is to buy new outer H4-accepting reflectors that have a sidelight hole in them, and fit the sidelight into that reflector. The red wire goes to the lamp centre positive terminal and the black to the earth return: https://www.holden.co.uk/p/autopal_5...redirect=retro
This company can also supply the light you will need: https://www.holden.co.uk/p/sidelight...r_for_headlamp
I've wondered about this with situations I have had in the past on other vehicles... Can a resistor be set up, with two spade leads soldered to it, shrink wrap covered, and it just be plugged in - across the plug? Giving the sensor the current drop or voltage it's looking for? Of course, I have no idea of the right resistance rating. I'm terrible with electrics...
I've wondered about this with situations I have had in the past on other vehicles... Can a resistor be set up, with two spade leads soldered to it, shrink wrap covered, and it just be plugged in - across the plug? Giving the sensor the current drop or voltage it's looking for? Of course, I have no idea of the right resistance rating. I'm terrible with electrics...
No, no drilling. I had the same issue other week when I swapped mine. Greg has the answer. Buy two new headlights with the side lights included and h4 bulbs in them. Mine were £25 for the pair off Ebay including bulbs.Search around other makes as they use them and are cheaper. You then need to swap the two outside lights and do a little re wiring in the uk when you turn on your side lights,( first setting) it automatically goes to dim dip which looks good. New headlights is your answer.
No, no drilling. I had the same issue other week when I swapped mine. Greg has the answer. Buy two new headlights with the side lights included and h4 bulbs in them. Mine were £25 for the pair off Ebay including bulbs.Search around other makes as they use them and are cheaper. You then need to swap the two outside lights and do a little re wiring in the uk when you turn on your side lights,( first setting) it automatically goes to dim dip which looks good. New headlights is your answer.
I see said the blind Man... Thanks!
I was just jabbering. Mine is a 1990, 4 headlights. And, I don't think I get a warning when lights are blown up front. I have wondered if it was possible tho to place a smaller, sleaker running/marker light on the front fenders... Anywho
I do although, for the rears and in other projects, have questions about putting resistors in line to trick the sensors. On my XJS, when I start the car and turn on the lights (and it must be the rears) the warning light stays on a good while, while it's "sensing" whether or not the rear lights are good - before it goes out... My wonder about resistors and tricking the sensors has mostly to do with trying to fit LEDs or some kind of light that draws less current so the load on the electrical system is not so HIGH when the lights are on. Turning on lights still brings my overall voltage way down.
I was just jabbering. Mine is a 1990, 4 headlights. And, I don't think I get a warning when lights are blown up front. I have wondered if it was possible tho to place a smaller, sleaker running/marker light on the front fenders... Anywho
I do although, for the rears and in other projects, have questions about putting resistors in line to trick the sensors. On my XJS, when I start the car and turn on the lights (and it must be the rears) the warning light stays on a good while, while it's "sensing" whether or not the rear lights are good - before it goes out... My wonder about resistors and tricking the sensors has mostly to do with trying to fit LEDs or some kind of light that draws less current so the load on the electrical system is not so HIGH when the lights are on. Turning on lights still brings my overall voltage way down.
There is a "sensor " for the rear lights fitted to the centre console. It is under the ski slope screwed to one of the cross bars. You can simply join the wires together and it will di away with it. Dont know if that's of help.
I was just jabbering. Mine is a 1990, 4 headlights. And, I don't think I get a warning when lights are blown up front. I have wondered if it was possible tho to place a smaller, sleaker running/marker light on the front fenders... Anywho
You will get a warning when the side lights (whether front or rear) are not functioning, if the system is working properly. The lights concerned are the ones on the wing (USA models) and the ones in the rear that come on with the switch.
the system is designed for the warning light to stay on for about 30 or 40 seconds when the lights are switched on. Whate#ver your charging problems are, JJJ, the current drawn by the sidelights has nothing to do with it! Placing resistors in the circuit and fitting LEDs uses just as much current as the original lights. As Brinny said, better to do away with the sensors, but there are several. The one under the console does the brake lights, not the side (running in USA speak?) lights.
Ok guys i fixed the the problem in a very very simple way I ran a foot long wire up through the light bezel where the euro light adjustment knobs were. I re wired the marker lamps and used connectors, I taped them up and are now sitting in the engine compartment, ( just encase i need to change one of the bulbs.. ) No more light fail light!!!! Check images
05-02-2020, 05:47 PM
