Help with ABS please
#21
#22
Hi Robbo
After you Bled the Low Pressure side, did you Bleed all the Brakes again?
Its too much of a coincidence that we've both got the same problem at the same time and while I'm not a big fan of the ABS and thinking of going over to Vacuum Booster, I would love to know the cause of the problem we have
Because on my 1989 with the same Teves Mk1V System, the Brakes on that Car are Perfect with a Rock Hard Pedal whenever you hit the Brakes
Alex
After you Bled the Low Pressure side, did you Bleed all the Brakes again?
Its too much of a coincidence that we've both got the same problem at the same time and while I'm not a big fan of the ABS and thinking of going over to Vacuum Booster, I would love to know the cause of the problem we have
Because on my 1989 with the same Teves Mk1V System, the Brakes on that Car are Perfect with a Rock Hard Pedal whenever you hit the Brakes
Alex
#23
#24
#25
There was something a bit weird when I was in the garage last night. As I was clearing up after bleeding the low pressure pipe etc there was a sound like an angle grinder starting. Now I’m not sure if it came from the car or not. If it did it was from the rear of the car. It lasted a few seconds and that was it . If it was a neighbour with an angle grinder you would have thought they would have carried on using it. All very odd.
Rob.
Rob.
#26
Hi Robbo
You are not imagineering this, I have heard the same thing!
This is what happened with my Car
Ignition on, then the Brake Pump builds up pressure and then it switches off
But then a little while later, the Brake Pump cuts in again and makes a noise like an Angle Grinder, a really rough graunching sort of noise
I also remember last year when I changed the Ball and thought I'd cured the problem, taking her for a drive around the Garden, the Brakes were working like they should but if you pushed the pedal a little bit too hard, the pedal would almost drop to the floor, then the Brake Pump would cut in again
Maybe you could appeal to your worthy assistant, that we are in desperate need of solving this problem ASAP
You are not imagineering this, I have heard the same thing!
This is what happened with my Car
Ignition on, then the Brake Pump builds up pressure and then it switches off
But then a little while later, the Brake Pump cuts in again and makes a noise like an Angle Grinder, a really rough graunching sort of noise
I also remember last year when I changed the Ball and thought I'd cured the problem, taking her for a drive around the Garden, the Brakes were working like they should but if you pushed the pedal a little bit too hard, the pedal would almost drop to the floor, then the Brake Pump would cut in again
Maybe you could appeal to your worthy assistant, that we are in desperate need of solving this problem ASAP
Last edited by orangeblossom; 05-28-2020 at 08:22 AM.
#27
#28
#29
Hi Alex.
A question for you. I had a look at the video of you testing the valve block solenoids can you confirm the following is correct. With the plug removed and looking straight at the socket. 12v battery negative to the far left terminal then touch the positive on each of the rest to activate the solenoids.
Rob.
A question for you. I had a look at the video of you testing the valve block solenoids can you confirm the following is correct. With the plug removed and looking straight at the socket. 12v battery negative to the far left terminal then touch the positive on each of the rest to activate the solenoids.
Rob.
#30
Hi Rob
Just to confuse you even more with the Master Cylinder laying on its side as in the Video the Negs on the Left but if it were in the Car it would be on the Right if you looked straight at it from the opposite side of the car
On my Car which is RHD with the plug on top of the Valve Block, if you looked across from the Passenger Side to the Drivers Side the Negative would be the last Pin on the Right nearest to the Firewall and nearest to the 'e' of 'Ate'
Take another look at the beginning of the Video
Hope that makes sense
Just to confuse you even more with the Master Cylinder laying on its side as in the Video the Negs on the Left but if it were in the Car it would be on the Right if you looked straight at it from the opposite side of the car
On my Car which is RHD with the plug on top of the Valve Block, if you looked across from the Passenger Side to the Drivers Side the Negative would be the last Pin on the Right nearest to the Firewall and nearest to the 'e' of 'Ate'
Take another look at the beginning of the Video
Hope that makes sense
#31
#32
#33
One job leads to another. Car up on stands. Both radius arms need re-bushing and maybe 1 x IRS cage mount replaced everything else look good though including rear pads. One question is it possible to remove the plate on the bottom of the cage without the diff dropping down. I would like to remove it to clean everything up and give the plate a coat of paint.
Rob.
Rob.
Last edited by Robbo D; 05-29-2020 at 03:03 PM.
#34
One job leads to another. Car up on stands. Bothe radius arms need re-bushing and maybe 1 x IRS cage mount replaced everything else look good though including rear pads. One question is it possible to remove the plate on the bottom of the cage without the diff dropping down. I would like to remove it to clean everything up and give the plate a coat of paint.
Rob.
Rob.
#35
#36
Hi Robbo
This is 'Spooky!'
I also changed the Ball last Year and just like you everything worked great, up until the time I changed the 'Ball' and took her for an MOT
Where like yourself I also didn't Bleed the Brakes, because I thought that I wouldn't need to
Which with the benefit of Hindsight, looks like a major mistake!
So as we've both got the same problem, created the same way, it now looks as if what we need to do now is to Bleed the Brakes and see if that makes any difference, which I have a feeling that it will
Don't forget to Bleed the Low Pressure Side of the System, from the Reservoir to the Brake Pump which is 'Gravity Fed' and needs to be done 'on the fly' with Brake Fluid flowing out of the Plastic Elbow that goes into the Brake Pump
Ignition OFF at all times!
(1) Fill the Reservoir with Brake Fluid both side of the divider as you look into the Filler hole of the Reservoir
(2) Pull the retaining Pin that holds the Plastic Elbow into the Brake Pump
(3) Jiggle out the Plastic Elbow, held in by an 'O' Ring being Careful not to break the Plastic Elbow, then let the Brake Fluid Free Flow for a few seconds to get any Air Bubbles out and then put the Plastic Elbow back into the Brake Pump while the Brake Fluid is still flowing out
(4) Protect all the Paintwork from Brake Fluid while you do this, or as you know it will Strip the Paintwork Off!
(5) Stuff Rags round the Brake Pump to catch any spills and have a bucket of Soapy Water Handy just in case!
(6) Then Bleed the Brakes According to the method described by Paul (ptjs)
Then let me know what happens as I will be preparing '50 Shades for her MOT' as this lockdown stuff has pushed everything back
Good Luck to both of us this time!
Alex
This is 'Spooky!'
I also changed the Ball last Year and just like you everything worked great, up until the time I changed the 'Ball' and took her for an MOT
Where like yourself I also didn't Bleed the Brakes, because I thought that I wouldn't need to
Which with the benefit of Hindsight, looks like a major mistake!
So as we've both got the same problem, created the same way, it now looks as if what we need to do now is to Bleed the Brakes and see if that makes any difference, which I have a feeling that it will
Don't forget to Bleed the Low Pressure Side of the System, from the Reservoir to the Brake Pump which is 'Gravity Fed' and needs to be done 'on the fly' with Brake Fluid flowing out of the Plastic Elbow that goes into the Brake Pump
Ignition OFF at all times!
(1) Fill the Reservoir with Brake Fluid both side of the divider as you look into the Filler hole of the Reservoir
(2) Pull the retaining Pin that holds the Plastic Elbow into the Brake Pump
(3) Jiggle out the Plastic Elbow, held in by an 'O' Ring being Careful not to break the Plastic Elbow, then let the Brake Fluid Free Flow for a few seconds to get any Air Bubbles out and then put the Plastic Elbow back into the Brake Pump while the Brake Fluid is still flowing out
(4) Protect all the Paintwork from Brake Fluid while you do this, or as you know it will Strip the Paintwork Off!
(5) Stuff Rags round the Brake Pump to catch any spills and have a bucket of Soapy Water Handy just in case!
(6) Then Bleed the Brakes According to the method described by Paul (ptjs)
Then let me know what happens as I will be preparing '50 Shades for her MOT' as this lockdown stuff has pushed everything back
Good Luck to both of us this time!
Alex
is is this the elbow connected to the braided hose that goes to the steel pipe?
#38
#39
#40
Hi all.
An update at last. I decided I didn’t like laying on the garage floor under the car with very little space to work so I took the car to our village garage. They fitted new radius arm bushes, rear brake pads, new hoses and I also had a Fosseway easy bleeder fitted. All brakes flushed and bled the Teves way and all is well. My sinking pedal is now sorted and the new accumulator I fitted is working brilliantly. So it looks like old crappy fluid gummed up the works.
Rob.
Old radius arm bushes. I think they are knackered.
An update at last. I decided I didn’t like laying on the garage floor under the car with very little space to work so I took the car to our village garage. They fitted new radius arm bushes, rear brake pads, new hoses and I also had a Fosseway easy bleeder fitted. All brakes flushed and bled the Teves way and all is well. My sinking pedal is now sorted and the new accumulator I fitted is working brilliantly. So it looks like old crappy fluid gummed up the works.
Rob.
Old radius arm bushes. I think they are knackered.
Last edited by Robbo D; 06-24-2020 at 11:43 AM.