help mounting electromotive TEC3
#1
help mounting electromotive TEC3
so I found an electromotive TEc3 ecu on ebay and I think im going to purchase that and install that to do my EFI and ignition control.
so I need so ideas,
1: how to mount the trigger wheel on the motor.
I was thinking of welding it to the back of the balancer and mounting the sensor on a bracket on the bolts from the water pump or the sandwich plate.
2: can one of these systems be set up to run just Fuel?
this would allow me to get the car going on the distributor set up I have from pertonix and then I could make sure the fueling is correct before I install the wasted spark system.
as always any imput would be great!
so I need so ideas,
1: how to mount the trigger wheel on the motor.
I was thinking of welding it to the back of the balancer and mounting the sensor on a bracket on the bolts from the water pump or the sandwich plate.
2: can one of these systems be set up to run just Fuel?
this would allow me to get the car going on the distributor set up I have from pertonix and then I could make sure the fueling is correct before I install the wasted spark system.
as always any imput would be great!
#2
#4
The only photo I found is the one I attached to my previous reply. It's been a while since I've had access to the trigger wheel, but, I remember it being a fairly simple arrangement, which could be unbolted and accurately reattached repeatedly. Seems like it was something like the central bolt running through a shaft with a keyed end, which attached to the two bolts which hold the crank pulley on the crankshaft.
#5
#7
The sensor is mounted underneath on the Marelli cars so it's a good place. I would not weld it on, the chances are high you will distort the wheel or damper pulley. I would bolt it to the pulley. If you have access to a lathe you can mount the damper in the lathe with the wheel fixed to the end with a bolt through the damper. Use a dial gauge to center the wheel then clamp it tight and drill 3mm pilot holes these can then be opened out and tapped in the damper.
You will need to make sure it is balanced as well.
You will need to make sure it is balanced as well.
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#8
#9
Cal:
DO NOT mount the trigger wheel to the damper! This will only cause spark jitter.
It MUST be mounted to a part of the pulley that is rigidly connected to the crank.
Before you pull the trigger on this whole deal, seriously look at: Dual EDIS ignition
I have driven Philiip's '80 XJS with this setup, and it is as nice and responsive as you could hope to find. Philip tunes by the seat of his pants (I don't think he's ever been on a dyno, but I may be wrong), but this has not limited his tuning results as far as I was able to tell, and he is very very knowledgeable about MS and how to tune it. Moreover, he has set this up on many V12's as well as Range Rover V8's. If you are afraid of MS and EDIS because it is complex, write him and get a conversation going before you make your decision.
They key here, is, the TEC system you are looking at is a good system, for sure. The issue is, can you find anyone having done it on a Jag v12 that can give you guidance. That to me is the main thing when setting out on a new engine management system, especially when it has to go on an engine that is off the maps, experience-wise (remember, early cartographers noted those unknown regions with the legend, 'there be dragons'!), and needs care to set up properly and then tuned. Hate to see you end up with burned expensive pistons or worse.
-M
-M
DO NOT mount the trigger wheel to the damper! This will only cause spark jitter.
It MUST be mounted to a part of the pulley that is rigidly connected to the crank.
Before you pull the trigger on this whole deal, seriously look at: Dual EDIS ignition
I have driven Philiip's '80 XJS with this setup, and it is as nice and responsive as you could hope to find. Philip tunes by the seat of his pants (I don't think he's ever been on a dyno, but I may be wrong), but this has not limited his tuning results as far as I was able to tell, and he is very very knowledgeable about MS and how to tune it. Moreover, he has set this up on many V12's as well as Range Rover V8's. If you are afraid of MS and EDIS because it is complex, write him and get a conversation going before you make your decision.
They key here, is, the TEC system you are looking at is a good system, for sure. The issue is, can you find anyone having done it on a Jag v12 that can give you guidance. That to me is the main thing when setting out on a new engine management system, especially when it has to go on an engine that is off the maps, experience-wise (remember, early cartographers noted those unknown regions with the legend, 'there be dragons'!), and needs care to set up properly and then tuned. Hate to see you end up with burned expensive pistons or worse.
-M
-M
#12
Chad's the man for this, Calvin.
I am quite surprised, though, that he is OK with mounting the trigger wheel to the damper. Seems like this could slip time if the rubber failed, in addition to giving potential spark scatter. Must be something here I am not seeing.
Either way, Chad knows what he is doing.
I am quite surprised, though, that he is OK with mounting the trigger wheel to the damper. Seems like this could slip time if the rubber failed, in addition to giving potential spark scatter. Must be something here I am not seeing.
Either way, Chad knows what he is doing.
#13
#14
Warren:
Yeah, the Marelli trigger wheel does look like it is mounted to the damper. But in fact, if you look carefully at it, the wheel is attached in such a way that it is essentially fixed at the inner mount of that damper, and not the outer ring where the belt is driven. This is why Marelli cars hold their timing even when the damper elastomer breaks up due to age.
I guess I really don't know how much torsional motion due to crank vibration modes that a damper experiences. I'd be interested to know, actually; if anyone does, please chime in with some numbers.
It just strikes me odd that when we want to know the crank position reasonably accurately, we are measuring off a reference that is tied by a fairly compliant spring to the crank, whose express purpose is to enable angular motions of a mass intended to counter crank torsional vibes.
But, as you say, if the damper doesn't move much, it's of no practical consequence.
-M
Yeah, the Marelli trigger wheel does look like it is mounted to the damper. But in fact, if you look carefully at it, the wheel is attached in such a way that it is essentially fixed at the inner mount of that damper, and not the outer ring where the belt is driven. This is why Marelli cars hold their timing even when the damper elastomer breaks up due to age.
I guess I really don't know how much torsional motion due to crank vibration modes that a damper experiences. I'd be interested to know, actually; if anyone does, please chime in with some numbers.
It just strikes me odd that when we want to know the crank position reasonably accurately, we are measuring off a reference that is tied by a fairly compliant spring to the crank, whose express purpose is to enable angular motions of a mass intended to counter crank torsional vibes.
But, as you say, if the damper doesn't move much, it's of no practical consequence.
-M
#15
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i agree mike, but as it is not a perfect idea, it would most likely work ok for our needs!
but deffinitly not for a serious race engine, it would seem that at hi load and hi rpm the small marelli cap may/could cause spark scatter and lead into detonation, things go down quickly from there!
something to be said for the early larger Lucas cap,with a bigger space between studs.
I donno,kinda up in the air on this one, if i was going crank trigger setup id go further and go EDIS or something of that sort! and a solid mounted trigger wheel, if you are gonna do it,,do it right!
and do away with the distributor completly.
anything done half-assed would for sure show up later as a problem!
but deffinitly not for a serious race engine, it would seem that at hi load and hi rpm the small marelli cap may/could cause spark scatter and lead into detonation, things go down quickly from there!
something to be said for the early larger Lucas cap,with a bigger space between studs.
I donno,kinda up in the air on this one, if i was going crank trigger setup id go further and go EDIS or something of that sort! and a solid mounted trigger wheel, if you are gonna do it,,do it right!
and do away with the distributor completly.
anything done half-assed would for sure show up later as a problem!
#16
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