Unplug the CPS, clean the 2 prongs, if does not start then do the CPS testing, etc.

 

Do you think because it’s too cold out that it won’t start. Temps are in the 40s It was kept in San Diego where it doesn’t t get that cold. Just a thought

 

While the filter is out,,, or take it out again, apply voltage to that pump and see if it really PUMPS fuel. A pump will spin, make noise and even sometimes push a little fuel but when it comes up to pressure it cannot be maintained or won't run right over time. I would also bet on fuel pump being the issue.

 

sorry no update as of yet have not had time to work on the car ...

 

So. Last night I checked the coil thinking that it was not giving enough juice to fire the car These are the readings.

primary = neg and positive leads =1.0 ohms
secondary = positive and center = 6900 ohms

will be looking to see if these values are ok

took out one plug and laid it on the top of the valve cover and gave it A crank. I watched the arc pulse as normal on the plug i did however notice a misfire.. where the plug would fire in rhythm and then there was a double fire quickly in what i would consider out of sync with the rhythm of the motor.. the arc was pretty good looking except when the misfire occurred which could be expected..

question i know that the dist cap would be main suspect here.. would the CPS also be a cause of this

will try to get a video of what i described about tomorrow as tonight is family night

one more thought... could or should i pull codes from the OBD-II and see if there is anything there that might say what is wrong.. I know i am not getting the car to run but is there a possibility that a code will pop up with some info ??

thanks as always ...

 

So after the attempt the other night. I decided that I would check out the distributor and rotor and see wha ti can find out. Took them off and cleaned contact points. I check for continuity of the cap all seems well. No cracks or burning marks. Checked the rotor for continuity and from center to edge I got .945. With 1. Being completely open. And of course zero is closed loop. Think makes me believe that the rotor is the issue. I have parts in order for pickup tomorrow after work. Put parts back in car back sir still wanted to alimony start. Pulled my truck around to lend a battery assist whit pedal to the floor. It fires up. Ran like crap and plumes of white smoke issued from the exhaust. Feather the pedal and kept it running until it idled. Still running terrible and missing. I let it run for 5 minutes before it tried to rev it up and it died. At least I know she runs Hopefully the parts install will tell me if I ammon the right path

rotor. Does the numbers sound bad ? I will see what I find. But compared to the one on my mustang it’s completely the opposite reading

here is a video of it running. Can’t see much but take a listen to the miss

as always. Thanks

 

White smoke = injector loom shorting out, which means the injectors are open all the time on some cylinders.
For sure replace the rotor.
I also expect you have loom shorts/breaks etc etc between the amp and the coils, and/or faulty amp or amps. This would account for the irregular spark. These items should be addressed too along with the injector loom. You will be very unlikely to have just one thing causing all this, you have an end of life ignition system and components, so by far the best thing to do is to rebuild the system.

 

That rotor resistance is odd. Some cars have Resistor rotors, BUT, Jaguar I doubt. None of our XJ40 (same engine system) had resistor rotors.

I would do a resistance check of ALL the HT leads, all 7 of them. Paying particular attention to the Coil lead. Both our AJ6 engines had Green stuff growing in the snout of the coil.

The smoke is possibly the NO START fuel in the exhaust burning off, takes about 15 minutes mostly.

 

Cruize,,,, slow down and,,, step by step,,, follow the direction of Greg and Grant here... They really do know these machines. Jus say'n...

 

hello all...
first let me apologize for the horrendous spelling in my last post.. typing in the dark while wearing contacts i am still adjusting to is not a good recipe.

let me make some clarifications .
the white smoke only lasted a little while , and i agree with Grant Francis that is is most likely NO Start fuel burning off as it did not last too long..
Distributor cap.. while i said that it seemed pretty good i must clarify that the contact prongs did look worn .. they were by no means in great shape... in this equation the rotor in my opinion is the mystery part with the reading i got . hopefully when i replace rotor and cap i will be able to check that off the list if i continue to get the no starts problems.. fingers crossed it gets solved ...

I see that Greg mentions the coils (plural) I only have one and i checked the numbers on it and it checked out well.. I did see that other cars have coils right on the spark plug wires is that what you were talking about ??? i did check the wire looms for broken or worn lines.everything looked good.. I have some history on the car as it was my sister in laws car before i acquired it I did speak to the mechanic prior to picking it up and he said that other than the water pump that he change the mechanics of the motors were in pretty good shape.. his biggest complaint about the car was he believed it wasn't driven enough i am trying to take care of that . so i will replace things as funds allow to rebuild the system, new plugs, rotor and cap is my start on that journey

i have a 67 Mustang that i am getting back on the road after 10+ years of hibernating as well

Grant mentions the HT leads.. I did not notice any green stuff growing on anything as I pulled parts looking possible broken lines nor had i noticed any random arcs.. but i will pay attention to these going forward so that i can eliminate these as being suspect.. i am sure that i will get around to changing them if the problem continues

JayJagJay.. lol i am going as slow as i can.. I hardly have time to work on this car as it is ... I know this Fuel and spark is what it takes for this to run.. prior to the no start the car ran relativity well other that what i thought was just bad fuel, which in reality may have been a misfire in disguise .. I believe that I took care of the fuel issues as i know the pump is working, filter is new and i have wet plugs from when i was trying to get it to start. with that done this leaves ignition system as the prime suspect.. I am taking that one step at a time

thanks for everyone's input i read and re read all that is posted to be sure that I understand what is being said .. and if i have questions i will surely ask for clarification

thanks again... hopefully i will have another update post this evening when i get off work and pick u my parts.. for now my mill and lather are calling.. they want to chew some metal

 

I had erroneously thought your car was a V12, hence my pints about the injector loom and coil and twin amps, sorry for the mixup. Whatever arrangement switches the coil 12 volts, to thus produce a spark on your engine (ie the amplifier on V12s, must be something similar on your 6) may be the cause of your intermittent spark. Also possible a rotor problem, also an HT lead problem, also possible coil breaking down under load. Renewing these parts on a 28 year old car is worth doing in any event and not expensive.

 

no worries about that ... i do take your advice to heart in trying to find out what the problem is
i am working on renewing these parts over time to bring the car back to perfect running condition

 

Hi Bernard

Since you've only got one Coil, that points to your Car having the earlier AJ6 Engine rather than the later AJ16 engine where each of those Spark Plugs has its own separate Coil, which in some ways is good news as it could be much cheaper to fix as those individual Coils can be quite expensive even for Aftermarket ones

And so the next thing I would look at would be the CPS which only takes a couple of Minutes to remove as there is only one bolt holding it in, although as I mentioned earlier the first time you do this, then you might find it easier to remove the whole bracket complete with the Plug still attached

You can't see what you are doing, so you have to do it by feel, though after you have done it once, then changing the CPS is very easy but it really helps if you have got one of those 1/4 inch ratchets

Good Luck hope this helps

Alex

 

The car is now running. Sort of. It is still hard to start. The cap and rotor were a definite help. It just takes a little longer to start when cold. She seems to be flooded out when I first attempt to start. Holding gas pedal down until it runs is how I have been able to get it to start tha last couple of times. When it’s warmed up the starting is easier. There is a definite miss at idle. The warmer the car the less the miss it surges between roughly 600 - 1000rpms at idle. The longer it idles the shirts the surge 900 - 1000.

Orangeblossom. I am not sure if this is the CPS causing this. I am thinking that I will be checking the injectors and rail next. I will also be looking at the wiring harness as Greg had mentioned to be sure there are no issues with that

at driving speed the miss mostly goes away but can be felt It’s not a steady miss.

that’s all for the moment. Going to out today and see if I can get it start. (Cold this morning) and take it for fuel and some gas and injector cleaner and run around and see if that helps. Still trying to make sure that old gas is purged from the system

 

Hi Bernard

I think it would be a lot easier to remove the CPS and give it a clean and check the gapping, as the gap could be closing up and running better when the engine gets warm while taking off the Fuel Rail and the injectors, is a bit more involved

 

Cruizer
That intermittent miss is consistent with that intermittently funny spark you mentioned. My money is on something electrical, and I would do all that side of things before doing anything fuel related. Now I have belatedly realised it is a 6 cylinder car, my injector loom point is unlikely to be the problem - I made this in response to your point that loads of white smoke was coming out of the exhaust, but, as you mentioned, as this was only for a short time an always-open injector is not the problem.

 

Thank you Greg and Orangeblossom. I will definitely check the CPS. And continue on the hunt in the electrics on this

I really appreciate the help that has been given.

 

My suggestion, get the fuel and cleaner, find a lunch spot a good distance away, and DRIVE the thing.

All that NO start has crapped up all sorts of items, and USA has more of that stuff than any other market.

A good LOOOOONG run will do more than any hands on stuff.

Startubg and stopping before getting up to proper temp is not good, more so the V12, but my 6cyl beasts all hated that procedure.

 

Took it on a 100 mile jaunt. Freeway speed most of the time. Steady miss. I’m sure that once I get a chance to clean the CPS cleaned. I am hoping it will run better. It has glimpses of want to run good. I am happy that I got it to start regularly. It still has a strong gas smell as it warms up.

little steps. Little steps

 

Cruizer67,

I would try a couple of easy things:

- Immediately after a full run when the car has been completely warmed up, I would immediately pull all 6 spark plugs and see if you've got any differences between them which may indicate an igniition fault or injector fault on one or more cylinders

- as you've got a smell of gas plus difficulty starting and misfiring even when warm, I would try starting the car, getting it slightly warm so it won't stall and then disconnecting the coolant temperature sensor and see what happens. The sensor enables enrichment to aid starting and warm-up. If it's failing, it could be causing any of the symptoms that you describe.

Good luck

Paul