To All,

I promised Vee I would post a thread on how I installed a new fuel pump without removing the gas tank


First off I’m 75 yrs.old and I could not envision laying on my back under the car trying to remove fuel lines with some special made tool...then trying to reattach those same fuel lines.

Plus the temps here in Florida have been in. The 90’s and humidity is even worse

I did not take any pictures and even if I did I do not know how to download them on this forum.

I’m afraid some might think this is too radical a move and the pictures might have put them over the top or worse banning me from this forum.


An unbelievably reliable (NEVER A NO START) 1996 XJS with 108K miles and the fuel pump still worked although I had a hiccup several weeks back where instead of firing up immediately Like usually after 1or 2 revolutions it took 10 to 15 it then went back to 1 or 2. I’ll explain later what I think happened.

I believe in preventative maintenance....Fix it before it fails!!

I like to take trips, my last was four (4) thousand miles in my Jag....Don’t need the fuel pump to fail when it’s Not in your driveway!!

Have already changed the trans fluid, rear end fluid, rebuilt power steering rack, sway bar bushings, brake pads, fuel filter, pressure regulator, lubed all six U-Joints, all new shocks, getting ready to pull the convertible top and have it restitched (Original/25yrs old, car was built Oct. 95) I think I am going to try and re-dye the top it’s original color ...Burgandy/Wine.... it looks good the way it is but I want it to look better.

Project Fuel Pump

1. I removed everything from the trunk including carpet carpet panel etc. thinking that if worse comes to worse I would have to install the new fuel pump the way most would consider normal.

2. Once all the back panels were removed I could see the tank top port. I removed the Rear seat bottom along with the three (3) pcs. Of carpeting on the rear deck. Had to remove four (4) snaps by drilling out center rivet. This pc. Was attached to the sheet metal panel for the back upright of the back seat.

3. Measured the distance of the tank access panel and it was located directly in the middle... side to side of the rear deck w/ Fuel port cover maybe two (2 ) inches in front of the heavy metal bolted panel ( Removed) behind the spare tire in the trunk.

4. Removed the fuel vent hose and the connector to the fuel pump.

5. Carefully tapped counterclockwise the metal seal ring diameter that holds the plastic cover and rubber tank seal. Put plastic on the drift (NO SPARKS)

6. Removed the plastic vent/connector cover, flange cover etc. (Had to remove 10 gals of gas) siphoned into plastic 5 gallon gas tanks I -placers in the trunk........made it real easy!!! HAD FIRE EXTINGUISHER RIGHT THERE.

7. Made a cardboard pattern ~10” distance across and 7” tall. Laid down directly butted up to the up slope of the rear deck and traced it out with pencil.

8. Between the tank and the rear deck was ~1” of clearance and directly between the tank and deck was insulation

9. Placed the gas tank seal housing assembly back on the tank to prevent venting into workspace

10. Purchased a piece of sheet metal and placed it ~12” X 18” on top of the insulation to further isolate the tank from what I was about to do.

11. Drilled small pilot holes along the tracing to make it easier to cut out the metal.

12. Used a metal Cutting blade Multifunctional vibrating tool. (Harbor Freight) and all along the pattern. Basically three sides up to the vertical backside of the rear deck.

13. Worked the metal up like a flap till it was vertical up against the back edge.

14. At this point, removed seal assembly (Metal ring and plastic assembly) which allowed me to look directly in to the tank to reveal how to remove the pump.

15. Pump was held in place by a rubber cover ( with zip tie ) that fits direct over the pump top. The rubber cover has a octagonal hole that slides over a vertical edge metal Column. The bottom of the pump has another rubber cover that positions the pump on a metal support structure Which has a couple of holes that mate with the rubber cover dimples.

16. Simply slide and twist (Filter at bottom has to maneuver around metal base and remove through hole

17. Once I saw the pump filter which was brittle and completely plugged except for the piece that broke off (Allowed fuel to get pumped)
That’s why it went from 1-2 to 10-15 to 1-2. Pump must have been sucking really hard to break the filter.......

18. Installed the new pump

19. Bent the metal back down to match existing surface

20. Drilled some holes and used pop rivets to keep surface flush. Metal hammered the sheet metal to the surface shape

21. Had previously purchased some 80 mil.sound deadening material and covered over the rear deck

22. Done looks NEW!! And it is more quiet than before.

Now on two the next project.... Redo the entire origin al convertible top structure!!!


As always thanks to the members for your HELP and SUPPORT!!

Softball60/Paul

 

Hi Softball

Why I am full of admiration for anyone thinking outside the box as you have done by taking that unorthodox approach

Having had to do this job a couple of times myself and as much of a PIA as it is, I would always opt for removing those Fuel Pipes even if I had to ask a Mate to give me a hand as I did last time

As having made a copy of the Jaguar Special Tool, which only took 15 minutes to make from a Scrap Piece of Copper Water Pipe, removing those Fuel Pipes is easier than it looks

As all that's required is to use the Tool to push on the Fuel Pipe Fittings which are underneath the Car, to compress the 'O' rings, while the other person then pulls off the Clips all of which can be done in less than 5 minutes, unlike changing the Spark Plugs which can take all Weekend to do

If I couldn't get under the Car myself, then I would have got a couple of Mates to do that little job for me, once I had explained to them both what to do

You don't have to take the Fuel Tank out, as all you really need to do, is to put some blocks of wood on the Floor of the Boot/Trunk to support the weight of the Tank, while you pull it back as far as you need to, so that you are able to get to the Fuel Pump which may only be a couple of feet

Though in my own case I decided to take the Tank right out so I could clean it, which of course involves a bit more work

Although the one thing I would never do is cut any holes in the Car, rather than get someone else to give me a hand

Only in my opinion but seeing that it is your Car how decide to do this is entirely up to you

 

So if I read this right. You cut an access hole in the steel behind the rear seat back? Or was it the seat bottoms?

You located the specific location of an an access port in the gas tank by looking through the fuel sender hole, making a carboard template?

I’m not against this method at all. I suspect I might do it this way too, when my time come, and at 128,000 miles, it’s coming....

So best part is when you need to replace it again, say in 100,000 miles, it should take a fraction of the time?

 

I dont have any pictures - will get and post some - but I did the same thing but on a 2003 XKR SC Portfolio Im working on - or is IT working on me?... Now, with the removal of some heavy duty aluminum duct tape and the carpet, I can remove and replace the fuel pump (even with gas) in 20 min, car on the ground. Some folks I have seen use a rented 90 degree industrial drill from Home Depot or Lowes and a big ol core drill bit, also rented, to make the cut. Much neater I guess - but the hole will NEVER be seen... I think it makes perfect sense... Awesome job!

I wonder about the integrity of the structure, how much the hole weakens the body of the car or produces a flex where a flex wasn't intended. It is a significant cross member/section of sorts for sure (especially on a convertible),,,, but I'm not a race car driver.

 

Guy’s

I knew this wouldn’t appeal to all but it was definitely easier, for me. If I had a drawing of the vehicle showing locations and dimensions I probably would not have had to remove anything in the trunk.

It would have been remove back seat, cut section so I could fold back, remove and replace fuel pump!!!!!

Vee, JayJagJay,

I removed the metal panel in the trunk which allowed me to see the fuel pump port. I took some measurements (Location and hole dia.) So that I knew how large a hole and where to locate.

The panel that I am referring to is top deck behind the rear seat. The panel is directly adjacent to the rear window on the convertible. It is the panel that the convertible top resides in when you put the top dow on a sunny day.

Structure wise I do not believe this part of the sheet metal that is utilized will cause any issues. Most of the side to side stress is taken up by the back panels that run from drivers side to passenger side. No through ports for shock tower etc. is underneath the car. I don’t think the XJS is a unibody construction. It’s frame structure is fairly significant.

In the old days, on many cars a speaker system was placed in this area with holes cut out for the speakers.

Again, Once I completed the fuel pump replacement I folded the sheet metal back down in original position, covered it with a larger piece of sheet metal and riveted the assembly. Structurally it is still stiff!!

Once completed I installed 80 mil sticky back sound proof material.

Now with the rear seat not installed (Getting ready to remove the convertible top) it is equally as quiet as when the seat was installed, so once I place the rear seats back in it should be really quiet.

 

It's 100% possible to access the top of the tank sufficiently to remove the pumps and clean the tank if necessary with out removal or disconnection of the lower supply and return lines or with any cutting. I just did it.... at the track... with basic hand tools in between sessions.

Here's the story... Limerock 2020 in the time of Covid. The 1995 V12 XJS with The 6 speed manual swap died on the track on Lap 2 of Session 2. Back in the pits it has ZERO fuel pressure but we could here the pump running. What to do? Gotta fix or go home. Next step...Make a jumper wire to power up the 2nd fuel pump (late v12 has two) and still no fuel pressure. In order to save the weekend it was decided to get in the tank and have a look. Once inside the tank it was easy to see the the rubber fuel line popped off so fuel was not leaving the tank. I tried to reinstall the line and tighten the clamp but it was clear that the rubber line had gone to mush. This is most likely from fuel with high levels of ethanol. So a quick jaunt to a near by NAPA auto parts store for some new lines and 4 new clamps. The XJS got fixed, missed one session and performed well for the remaining 5 subsequent sessions over 2 days of wheel to wheel track action.




New hoses and clamps.

 

ICSA,

Glad to hear that there is yet another way to do this task without removing the tank. Was your tank setup modified for the track for a situation just like this....Say rubber hoses out front for the tank
On my method I didn’t have to even move the tank.

How is it that every thread I have read on this site states that you n red a special tool to remove those gas lines located in the front of the tank before you can pull the tank forward. I believe those two lines that interface with the tank are metal tubing in a fixed position.

Thanks for the pictures etc.

Were you actually racing??

Thanks

Softball60/Paul

 

Hi icsamerica

Now that's what I'd call a 'Game Changer!'

Or maybe 'Genius' is the word that I am looking for

But did you have to disconnect the Fuel Filler Cap and Neck, as I found that the hardest part of the Job, except that putting that back was even harder!

Although in any event you can take what you did as an 'epic' well done from me

Alex

 

I was driving my XJ coupe. My friend Henry was driving the XJS with the 6 speed. I built both cars. They both drove to the track, raced in 7 out of 8 sessions and drove home. That's over 2 hours flat out for each car.

It's certainly racing. It's not considered "competition" in the group we're in. Have a look at the video. Many times we were 3 across on the straight. The track officials were unusually lenient this year it was "anything goes" out there but no-one got hurt and it was the best track weekend I had to date.

 

Dont believe everything you read on the inter-webs.
You dont need a special tool, they're just C shaped clips that pull out by hand. I didnt undo them at the track.





. The tank was installed as produced. The tank fill neck is a pain, I've had to un-do it in the past. In this case I didnt need to, I just took out the three 8 MM nuts that hold the rubber surround and that offered enough movement.

The XJS coupe was stock except for the 6 speed, its lowered and has upgraded front and rear sway bars

 

Hi icsamerica

If I ever have to replace that Fuel Pump again, I will certainly be giving your method a try

Great Video BTW

Alex

 

Icsamerica,

Thanks for the post and video.

Rerminds me of my days back in the 60’s and 70’s racing with John Greenwood (Hall of fame Corvettes) winner of LeMans and many more.

Glad to see see and hear there are others that think outside the box.

Softball60/Paul

 

Does anybody happen to know if the 95-96 gas tank for a coupe is dimensional the same as a 92-94 facelift tank or slightly smaller? I noticed on icsamerica 95 MY that the trunk lid lift supports are mounted to the body outside the trunk. On my 92 face lift model the lift supports are mounted to, what Jaguar calls hockey pucks, removable side panels inside the trunk. Both panels have to be removed in order to slide the tank far enough to the rear to access the pump module. This further aggravates the process because another device or help is needed to prop the trunk lid open while trying to access the fuel pump. This makes a roadside emergency repair near impossible if you don't carry all the tools need to do this kind of work. This is the 3rd time I have the tank out due to fuel pump failures in short order, and I remove both fuel lines at the fuel filter. No need for handmade tools,fuel dripping down your arm and into your face and nationalistically moves to access and remove the C-shaped retainers. Although, there may be a finite use of how many times you can remove a Legris connector before it springs a leak, Believe they are not serviceable parts. I'm currently debating if I should retrofit the gas tank with the previous surge tank/external FP set up or go with the 95-96 in-tank option.

 

purrkittypurr,

I THINK the tanks are dimensionally the same on early and late facelft Coupes, the differences primarily being in the fuel pump setup.

I also think that icsamerica has just disconnected the boot strut to help move the tank and propped it in the boot channel to help hold up the boot. There was not a change of boot strut mount position on later cars.

Cheers

Paul

 

This is my understanding. The V12 has 2 intank pumps, The inline 6 has just 1.

Yes, I did just disconnect the boot strut and positioned it in the boot channel. I wouldnt recommend this under normal conditions. It was somewhat precarious but the best options under the circumstances.

 

I just did it again, diffrent car though..

It was easier this time becasue I didnt need to remove the black side support panels.

In this case, I needed to replace the fuel pump on a AJ16 car that was running out of fuel. I replaced the pump with my go to Walbro pump. It's a Ford Mustang pump that can support 500 HP and has the same electrical connection and output size as the OE pump. The pickup is much larger though so the support bracket needed to be modified for the pickup size. The Walbo pump is made in USA and just like the OE pump uses a gerotor design however the gerotor on the Walbro pump is brass instead of plastic. The Walbro pump is slightly more audible than the OE pump but hardly noticeable in most driving situations. I do plan on using most of it's 500 HP capacity...more on that another time. The whole project took 3 hours becasue I've done it before.


Again!


AJ16 car has 1 intank pump


Removing side support panel wasn't necessary. Perhaps the AJ16 tank is smaller


Old Pump out!


OE pump runs out of fuel at aprox 260 HP, Walbro has similar dimensions but has a much larger pickup and brass gerotor


OE bracket modified with larger washer and rubber isolator to support Walbor pump

 

Ptjs1 thanks for the reply.

icsamerica, I see now how you going about. I have the parts to updated my tank to the late 94-96 redesigned fuel system but currently looking for a galvanized tank instead. Does the Walbro pump have a check valve?

 

Yes, Walbro pump has a check valve on the outlet.

 

Hello everyone this is my first post!
I know its been a while since this post but I have a 1994 XJS 4.0 that's giving me low fuel pressure problems. You guys have given me the courage to attempt this repair myself and I would like to try the Walbro pump instead of the OEM. Could you tell me the model number of the one you used ICSAMERICA?

Also, In case all the hoses inside have gone to mushhh!... what type of fuel hose would be the correct replacement?... (inner diameter, submergible etc)

Thanks so much!

 

I was able to do this job without cutting (twice) as you can unbolt the tank and slide it out just enough to reach in and pull the canisters out. It was more fun then you could possibly imagine though.