How much did I mess up this time??
#1
How much did I mess up this time??
Decided to do the Marelli rotor modification today. Removed the cap and was presently suprised to see that it already had a aluminum tube for the center contact to ride in.
Went to remove the rotor. The allen screws were rounded out by previous service (I hate allen screws just for this reason...). So, I took my allen wrench, placed it in the first screw and tappity-tap with a hammer to seat it. Turned and it came out. Second screw not so much luck....tappity-tap and I broke off the ear of the rotor, plus the pot aluminum ear that it screws to. My fault for assuming that it'd be manufactured out of something a litte sturdier.
It looks like this part mounts to the shaft with a pinch bolt.... did a quick internet search for "marelli jaguar distributor" but didn't see any for sale. Dunno if the dealer ($$$) would have it.
Anybody got a line on where to get this?
howlinowl
Went to remove the rotor. The allen screws were rounded out by previous service (I hate allen screws just for this reason...). So, I took my allen wrench, placed it in the first screw and tappity-tap with a hammer to seat it. Turned and it came out. Second screw not so much luck....tappity-tap and I broke off the ear of the rotor, plus the pot aluminum ear that it screws to. My fault for assuming that it'd be manufactured out of something a litte sturdier.
It looks like this part mounts to the shaft with a pinch bolt.... did a quick internet search for "marelli jaguar distributor" but didn't see any for sale. Dunno if the dealer ($$$) would have it.
Anybody got a line on where to get this?
howlinowl
#2
heh heh.....radio edit on my title.
Been lookin' 'round the net for this part, it'd probably help if I knew the "official factory description" for it, but I don't.
Wouldn't be able to check with the dealership until Monday anyway....doubt if I'd find it used, as most used distributors are sold as a complete unit (with prices from the $200 to over $300)....with prices like that, I wouldn't part it out and sell as a unit too.
Thinkin' for the meantime to just run this one with the broken tab. If you perform the modification as per Kirby's book, the only thing securing the rotor to the shaft is the two ears anyway, so I believe if I do not cut or grind the shaft, maybe put a little silicone in the hole for whatever adhesion it would provide and secure with the remaining screw, It should be just about as secure as if I'd cut the shaft and used just the screws to secure it.
Thoughts????
howlinowl
Been lookin' 'round the net for this part, it'd probably help if I knew the "official factory description" for it, but I don't.
Wouldn't be able to check with the dealership until Monday anyway....doubt if I'd find it used, as most used distributors are sold as a complete unit (with prices from the $200 to over $300)....with prices like that, I wouldn't part it out and sell as a unit too.
Thinkin' for the meantime to just run this one with the broken tab. If you perform the modification as per Kirby's book, the only thing securing the rotor to the shaft is the two ears anyway, so I believe if I do not cut or grind the shaft, maybe put a little silicone in the hole for whatever adhesion it would provide and secure with the remaining screw, It should be just about as secure as if I'd cut the shaft and used just the screws to secure it.
Thoughts????
howlinowl
#3
Just looked at my parts book.
They list the rotor/cap/etc, and show the body with the "eared" adaptor plainly visible, and a tag saying "NSS" (not serviced seperately).
I think your idea is fine, as long as the rotor is held "flat and square", I see no issues. RTV is fine as long as the two surfaces are CLEAN, and I use "Carby Cleaner" as a solvent to do just that.
They list the rotor/cap/etc, and show the body with the "eared" adaptor plainly visible, and a tag saying "NSS" (not serviced seperately).
I think your idea is fine, as long as the rotor is held "flat and square", I see no issues. RTV is fine as long as the two surfaces are CLEAN, and I use "Carby Cleaner" as a solvent to do just that.
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howlinowl (08-05-2012)
#4
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Grant..
My only concern about this would be that if I don't get it mounted exactly flat and it is ****-eyed (whoops....time for another radio edit!) that the centrifical force from it spinning would cause it to continue to pull at the rotor. The more it pulls, the more force it would put on the remaining tab until it breaks off, causing whatever havoc that may happen. But I think with the shaft still on the distributor, it probably won't be able to come up enough to affect the tab. Also, since I am unable to purchase the part, I'll just be checking it that much more often. Gonna order a new rotor anyway....age and heat have probably brittled the plastic on this one and made it more likely to break.
Again, Thanks.
howlinowl
My only concern about this would be that if I don't get it mounted exactly flat and it is ****-eyed (whoops....time for another radio edit!) that the centrifical force from it spinning would cause it to continue to pull at the rotor. The more it pulls, the more force it would put on the remaining tab until it breaks off, causing whatever havoc that may happen. But I think with the shaft still on the distributor, it probably won't be able to come up enough to affect the tab. Also, since I am unable to purchase the part, I'll just be checking it that much more often. Gonna order a new rotor anyway....age and heat have probably brittled the plastic on this one and made it more likely to break.
Again, Thanks.
howlinowl
#5
Another thought, and you are on the ground with this one.
The ear has broken off, OK.
You still got that bit, right??.
It probably fits back on the broken area very well, just does not stay there.
I have used JB Weld for some fairly hairy repairs over the years, and it really has saved my bacon a few times.
It will sustain fairly high shock loads, and just might be suitable for putting that ear back on. Maybe using the rotor and the 2 screws to actually hold it in perfect place while that stuff sets for 24 hours.
Of course SUPER CLEAN here is mandatory.
The ear has broken off, OK.
You still got that bit, right??.
It probably fits back on the broken area very well, just does not stay there.
I have used JB Weld for some fairly hairy repairs over the years, and it really has saved my bacon a few times.
It will sustain fairly high shock loads, and just might be suitable for putting that ear back on. Maybe using the rotor and the 2 screws to actually hold it in perfect place while that stuff sets for 24 hours.
Of course SUPER CLEAN here is mandatory.
#7
Once I land the 2nd job (or win the lottery!!!....yeah, right) I just may take you up on that distributor.
thanks
howlinowl
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#8
Just thought I'd update:
Got my new rotor in the mail. JB welded the broken piece back into place, using the rotor to hold it while it dried. Tweaked on it a bit and it seems fairly solid. Used some silicone to glue the rotor on to the shaft, and put a bead across each ear of the piece I broke to help hold the rotor in place and also to help glue the broken piece to it. Used the old screws to secure everything so far, but am planning on hunting down some useable replacements. Fired it up and it runs good so far, haven't taken it out on the highway yet as I still have the rear brakes to replace. The real test will come when I open her up on the interstate.
howlinowl
Got my new rotor in the mail. JB welded the broken piece back into place, using the rotor to hold it while it dried. Tweaked on it a bit and it seems fairly solid. Used some silicone to glue the rotor on to the shaft, and put a bead across each ear of the piece I broke to help hold the rotor in place and also to help glue the broken piece to it. Used the old screws to secure everything so far, but am planning on hunting down some useable replacements. Fired it up and it runs good so far, haven't taken it out on the highway yet as I still have the rear brakes to replace. The real test will come when I open her up on the interstate.
howlinowl
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