How to properly change your oil (and basic service) your XJS and at what frequency?
#81
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,924
Received 10,982 Likes
on
7,213 Posts
The drop-the-pan method can get messy, yes. And is a little tricky with the bizarre transmission mount arrangement. Bit of a chore.
Suck-out-through the dipstick tube sounds good in terms of ease and cleanliness.
The pan only holds about 4 quarts, though, so you're only replacing about 40% of the fluid. What many do, and what I recommend, is suck out all the fluid from in the pan and replace with new fluid. Drive a couple miles, then repeat the process. Then repeat a 2-3 more times.
One up-side of removing the pan is being about to clean any residual gunk residing in the bottom and replacing the pan gasket if it's drippy
Cheers
DD
Suck-out-through the dipstick tube sounds good in terms of ease and cleanliness.
The pan only holds about 4 quarts, though, so you're only replacing about 40% of the fluid. What many do, and what I recommend, is suck out all the fluid from in the pan and replace with new fluid. Drive a couple miles, then repeat the process. Then repeat a 2-3 more times.
One up-side of removing the pan is being about to clean any residual gunk residing in the bottom and replacing the pan gasket if it's drippy
Cheers
DD
The following 2 users liked this post by Doug:
orangeblossom (01-26-2017),
paulyling (01-20-2017)
#82
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-26-2017)
#83
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,924
Received 10,982 Likes
on
7,213 Posts
Dipstick end.
Google "Fluid Extractor Automotive" for some ideas. The one I use requires an air compressor but a hand pump version will do. Avoid the super bargain basement models...more trouble than they're worth
Something like this should be OK
Topsider Oil Changer | Oil Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment
Cheers
DD
The following 2 users liked this post by Doug:
orangeblossom (01-26-2017),
paulyling (01-20-2017)
#84
Also, sorry if we have already covered it but how many litres does she take of Trans fluid?
Is there a particular method when we top it back up....like chug her down the dipstick hole and wait? I understand we normally check trans fluid when she is warm so obviously it expands and all.
Appreciate the help and thanks in advance
Is there a particular method when we top it back up....like chug her down the dipstick hole and wait? I understand we normally check trans fluid when she is warm so obviously it expands and all.
Appreciate the help and thanks in advance
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-26-2017)
#85
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Posts: 28,381
Received 6,327 Likes
on
4,370 Posts
The following 3 users liked this post by o1xjr:
#86
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,924
Received 10,982 Likes
on
7,213 Posts
The fluid level must be checked when HOT (not warm) to get a truly accurate reading for the final topping-off. I drive at least 10 miles before checking
Cheers
DD
The following 2 users liked this post by Doug:
orangeblossom (01-25-2017),
paulyling (01-23-2017)
#87
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,924
Received 10,982 Likes
on
7,213 Posts
By the way, old transmission fluid is an excellent parts cleaner. Slow, but effective.
I keep a 5 gallon pail on hand for soaking those really crusty parts that have years of caked on dirt and grime. Drop the part in the pail, let is soak for a couple days....and that thick layer of crust almost slips right off ! Any that doesn't slide off will be much softer and easier to scrape away
Cheers
DD
I keep a 5 gallon pail on hand for soaking those really crusty parts that have years of caked on dirt and grime. Drop the part in the pail, let is soak for a couple days....and that thick layer of crust almost slips right off ! Any that doesn't slide off will be much softer and easier to scrape away
Cheers
DD
The following 3 users liked this post by Doug:
#88
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-25-2017)
#89
Paul, stop worrying. Buy 4 litres and that will do it and you will have some left over. Bung in 2 and look at the dipstick, then add as required. If it is a bit full, loosen the modulator and it will come out there if it is really too full.! When the lottery win strikes, treat yourself to one of these (best days work I ever did, as my old Man used to say):
Moroso 42020: Aluminum Transmission Pan Turbo 400/3L80 | JEGS
Two magnetic drain plugs, plugs in the right place, bigger ATF capacity. Lovely. Beware of lookalikes though, these are welded NOT cast, and will jot shatter like a biscuit if you tap a rock on an Aussie backroad.
Greg
Moroso 42020: Aluminum Transmission Pan Turbo 400/3L80 | JEGS
Two magnetic drain plugs, plugs in the right place, bigger ATF capacity. Lovely. Beware of lookalikes though, these are welded NOT cast, and will jot shatter like a biscuit if you tap a rock on an Aussie backroad.
Greg
The following 3 users liked this post by Greg in France:
#90
Cheers Greg...you are indeed a wealth of knowledge
I noted in the Haynes manual it states before draining the fluid to undo the vaccum capsule first and do it from there. Is this the capsule they mean?
Of course then it says to continue unbolting the pan etc. but just noted this extra step.
Also in the same said manual it says the amount of fluid you dump will be less than the amount of fluid you would install from dry. It explains this is because the Torque converter holds fluid and does not get drained until the transmission is removed. Just thought it was interesting to note.
Well the only remaining thing is to get this O-ring (#8) and I am set:
I spoke to my local transmission guy and he says he would probably have it but I need to bring down the sample one first. So I either borrow the Mrs car or cut a hole in the bottom and wheel it like Fred Flintstone to the trans mob....
Will partake in this next mission probably early next week. Got to take the Blue Goose to town tomorrow for an overnight stay.
I noted in the Haynes manual it states before draining the fluid to undo the vaccum capsule first and do it from there. Is this the capsule they mean?
Of course then it says to continue unbolting the pan etc. but just noted this extra step.
Also in the same said manual it says the amount of fluid you dump will be less than the amount of fluid you would install from dry. It explains this is because the Torque converter holds fluid and does not get drained until the transmission is removed. Just thought it was interesting to note.
Well the only remaining thing is to get this O-ring (#8) and I am set:
I spoke to my local transmission guy and he says he would probably have it but I need to bring down the sample one first. So I either borrow the Mrs car or cut a hole in the bottom and wheel it like Fred Flintstone to the trans mob....
Will partake in this next mission probably early next week. Got to take the Blue Goose to town tomorrow for an overnight stay.
Last edited by paulyling; 01-24-2017 at 04:01 AM.
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-25-2017)
#91
Gearbox Governor and Modulator-5.3 Litre-Automatic - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
greg
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg in France:
orangeblossom (01-25-2017),
paulyling (01-24-2017)
#92
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-25-2017)
#93
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Posts: 28,381
Received 6,327 Likes
on
4,370 Posts
If you are in town for a couple of days it wouldn't hurt to pick up a new modulator while you are at it . About $35
You will be almost driving right past them. They will have the o-ring too.
Just be armed with your Vin & transmission model.
Motospecs, unit 5/80 Webster Rd, Stafford. PH 3356 8499.
Last roller door at the end of the drive.
Almost opposite the Stafford tavern.
https://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/s...0-listing.html
You will be almost driving right past them. They will have the o-ring too.
Just be armed with your Vin & transmission model.
Motospecs, unit 5/80 Webster Rd, Stafford. PH 3356 8499.
Last roller door at the end of the drive.
Almost opposite the Stafford tavern.
https://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/s...0-listing.html
Last edited by o1xjr; 01-24-2017 at 04:54 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by o1xjr:
#94
If you are in town for a couple of days it wouldn't hurt to pick up a new modulator while you are at it . About $35
You will be almost driving right past them. They will have the o-ring too.
Just be armed with your Vin & transmission model.
Motospecs, unit 5/80 Webster Rd, Stafford. PH 3356 8499.
Last roller door at the end of the drive.
Almost opposite the Stafford tavern.
https://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/s...0-listing.html
You will be almost driving right past them. They will have the o-ring too.
Just be armed with your Vin & transmission model.
Motospecs, unit 5/80 Webster Rd, Stafford. PH 3356 8499.
Last roller door at the end of the drive.
Almost opposite the Stafford tavern.
https://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/s...0-listing.html
I know where that is I think, I might go and have a look!
Thanks for the contact
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-25-2017)
#95
Hi Bro
This is where the Vacuum Modulator Tube Connects to, what Greg was talking about on 'A' Bank.
Its at the end of the Inlet Manifold (at the Windscreen end)
I've heard that the bends on those Tubes can get very fragile and break off, so I'm sure that Greg will be able to advise you on that.
Marelli or Lucas, I think the Setups the same.
Vacuum Pipe for the Gearbox Modulator
This is where the Vacuum Modulator Tube Connects to, what Greg was talking about on 'A' Bank.
Its at the end of the Inlet Manifold (at the Windscreen end)
I've heard that the bends on those Tubes can get very fragile and break off, so I'm sure that Greg will be able to advise you on that.
Marelli or Lucas, I think the Setups the same.
Vacuum Pipe for the Gearbox Modulator
The following 2 users liked this post by orangeblossom:
Greg in France (01-25-2017),
paulyling (01-25-2017)
#97
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-26-2017)
#98
Ok guys. Gonna make a start tomorrow morning on the transmission service. I have a list below...please feel free to chip in with any advice or critique:
I pinched some ideas from both the forums and the good ole Haynes manual...well here goes:
Firstly this is the parts for tomorrow. Note this ATF...I have had it for about 1 year. Use it occasionally for my Power Steering top up as she leaks. Have about 3.5 liters left so hope that is enough else I will just duck down the road for more. Is this stuff ok if it has been opened for a while? (Lid closed of course). I know Brake Fluid expires so just thought I'd ask.
Ok the other is the filter kit for the GM400. I still require the O-Ring for the plastic pipe which I will have to take a sample with me to the Transmission bloke.
Ok so here is the list:
NOTE: No collision bracket on mine.
1) Jack the ole girl up from the front and lower her down on the jack stands.
2) According to Haynes I unclamp the Vacuum capsule/modulator off first to drain some fluid from there. (I will do this only if I can access this without taking off the exhaust pipe. If not I will leave it.) Whilst there I will check to make sure the Vac tube is at least in tact.
3) Unbolt all the oil pan bolts except for two at the front and one on the rear.
4) Place container underneath and proceed to remove the rear bolt whilst holding up the pan. Loosen front bolts and tilt downwards...spewing red goo all over me and the floor most likely whilst getting baptized by Lyons, Sparrow Sidecars and the Holy Ghost. Take out bolts and continue to spew.
5) Discard the old cork gasket.
6) Unscrew and remove the oil filter securing bolt, remove the filter and use as frisbee.
7) Take out this plastic pipe and remove o-ring. Go down the road in the other car and source a new o-ring from the transmission mob.
8) Come back and fit new o-ring.
9) Fit new filter and tighten the securing seal.
10) Wipe out the oil plan and clean. Get new cork gasket and stick in place with a little bit of Petroleum jelly.
11) Secure oil pan and fill by dipstick end with 3-4 liters of new DEX III ATF.
Go for a test spin and check the fluid level after she is running at normal engine temps.
BONUS:
I have to fix my speedo whilst I am under there. Suspect Nylon gear which I have at my disposal. Will fit that as well and see if it fixes my dead speedo. Results will be posted here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-125453/page6/
I pinched some ideas from both the forums and the good ole Haynes manual...well here goes:
Firstly this is the parts for tomorrow. Note this ATF...I have had it for about 1 year. Use it occasionally for my Power Steering top up as she leaks. Have about 3.5 liters left so hope that is enough else I will just duck down the road for more. Is this stuff ok if it has been opened for a while? (Lid closed of course). I know Brake Fluid expires so just thought I'd ask.
Ok the other is the filter kit for the GM400. I still require the O-Ring for the plastic pipe which I will have to take a sample with me to the Transmission bloke.
Ok so here is the list:
NOTE: No collision bracket on mine.
1) Jack the ole girl up from the front and lower her down on the jack stands.
2) According to Haynes I unclamp the Vacuum capsule/modulator off first to drain some fluid from there. (I will do this only if I can access this without taking off the exhaust pipe. If not I will leave it.) Whilst there I will check to make sure the Vac tube is at least in tact.
3) Unbolt all the oil pan bolts except for two at the front and one on the rear.
4) Place container underneath and proceed to remove the rear bolt whilst holding up the pan. Loosen front bolts and tilt downwards...spewing red goo all over me and the floor most likely whilst getting baptized by Lyons, Sparrow Sidecars and the Holy Ghost. Take out bolts and continue to spew.
5) Discard the old cork gasket.
6) Unscrew and remove the oil filter securing bolt, remove the filter and use as frisbee.
7) Take out this plastic pipe and remove o-ring. Go down the road in the other car and source a new o-ring from the transmission mob.
8) Come back and fit new o-ring.
9) Fit new filter and tighten the securing seal.
10) Wipe out the oil plan and clean. Get new cork gasket and stick in place with a little bit of Petroleum jelly.
11) Secure oil pan and fill by dipstick end with 3-4 liters of new DEX III ATF.
Go for a test spin and check the fluid level after she is running at normal engine temps.
BONUS:
I have to fix my speedo whilst I am under there. Suspect Nylon gear which I have at my disposal. Will fit that as well and see if it fixes my dead speedo. Results will be posted here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-125453/page6/
Last edited by paulyling; 01-30-2017 at 04:29 AM.
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (01-30-2017)
#99
Damn, thats complicated.
Forget that modulator till another time. You have a trans that is changing gears, YES, and there is NO smoke screen from the RH exhaust pipe, CORRECT, soooooo, the modulator is probably a GM Dino, but its working. The exhaust pipe will be in the way to actually extract it from the casing, FACT.
NO Petro Jelly PLEASE. You have RTV, I know that, so smear some on the pan face, sit the gasket in place, smear the top side of the gasket, wipe the trans case face AGAIN, with a solvent soaked rag, and raise the pan assembly into place and hand fit a bolt in each corner, then install the rest, and tighten evenly to JUST OVER finger tight.
Fit your speedo gear, and check the modulator hose, have a BEER.
Now tighten the pan bolts 1/4 turn, NO MORE, and lower the car.
Fill it with trans fluid, that 3.5ltrs will do, and then drive it, about 20kms, pick up another trans fluid supply, then with the engine running check the level. Dont get panicky with the level, I always ran about 1/4" over the full mark. Check it again in a few days, again after about a 15km run.
Forget that modulator till another time. You have a trans that is changing gears, YES, and there is NO smoke screen from the RH exhaust pipe, CORRECT, soooooo, the modulator is probably a GM Dino, but its working. The exhaust pipe will be in the way to actually extract it from the casing, FACT.
NO Petro Jelly PLEASE. You have RTV, I know that, so smear some on the pan face, sit the gasket in place, smear the top side of the gasket, wipe the trans case face AGAIN, with a solvent soaked rag, and raise the pan assembly into place and hand fit a bolt in each corner, then install the rest, and tighten evenly to JUST OVER finger tight.
Fit your speedo gear, and check the modulator hose, have a BEER.
Now tighten the pan bolts 1/4 turn, NO MORE, and lower the car.
Fill it with trans fluid, that 3.5ltrs will do, and then drive it, about 20kms, pick up another trans fluid supply, then with the engine running check the level. Dont get panicky with the level, I always ran about 1/4" over the full mark. Check it again in a few days, again after about a 15km run.
The following 3 users liked this post by Grant Francis: