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Dont waste grease on those lower outer nipples, as I mentioned in that write up. Make sure Clarke knows that one, not sure if I sent that to him way back??.
Until that bleed hole is blanked off, they will gobble grease and grease nothing.
Just pump 6 strokes each and leave it.
Then the hubs, through that tin cap, 6 strokes each also, dont fill the hub, not needed.
Cheers Grant!
Mate sorry, did you say you sent me a write up on them? I couldn't find it in my email trail.
By the lower outer nipples do you mean the ones at the rear when you take off the rear wheels?
And each grease point that I grease you recommend 6 squirts?
I am sure this will all make a lot more sense to me once I am up and under there with Clarke on Monday. Me and the Goose are having a break from each other for the next few days whilst my body recovers from all the goo she has spat at me! (I gotta clean the garage too!)
By the lower outer nipples do you mean the ones at the rear when you take off the rear wheels?
And each grease point that I grease you recommend 6 squirts?
Paul
On the rear axle there are 10 grease points, car needs to be raised at the back:
4 under the diff, one at each corner of the bottom cage plate accessed through a hole in the plate. These grease the lower wishbone inner fulcrum.
2 on each driveshaft, therefore 4 in all, these grease the universal joints in the driveshaft. Quite hard to access sometimes, you may have to turn the wheels to get them at an accessible angle for the gun.
The final 2 of the 10 are on the outer fulcrum of the lower wishbone, in the middle of the bottom of the hub, obvious when you look. No need to remove the wheels to get to them. Grant as always is correct: there is a bleed hole on the opposite side to the nipple, and the grease just goes into the nipple and straight out the opposite side of the hub casting; it does not get forced sideways to the actual bearings which are on each end of the hub fulcrum casting. The only way (that I know of) to ensure grease does get to these actual bearings is a fix explained in the Great Palm's book.
This fix involves (a) closing off the bleed hole with a small self tapper and then (b) and this is very tricky, making a 2mm hole just outside the bearing on each end of this lower outer fulcrum tube so grease is then forced by the gun along to the bearing, through it, and out. This is something that can be done when and if you are replacing the bearings on the fulcrum. I have done it, but it is very easy to knacker the bearing and/or its vital shims when you drill the bleed holes. The only reason to replace these bearings is if the car starts to lose its "track like a guided missile though long fast bends" quality and needs constant steering inputs under these circumstances.
Greg
Paul
On the rear axle there are 10 grease points, car needs to be raised at the back:
4 under the diff, one at each corner of the bottom cage plate accessed through a hole in the plate. These grease the lower wishbone inner fulcrum.
2 on each driveshaft, therefore 4 in all, these grease the universal joints in the driveshaft. Quite hard to access sometimes, you may have to turn the wheels to get them at an accessible angle for the gun.
The final 2 of the 10 are on the outer fulcrum of the lower wishbone, in the middle of the bottom of the hub, obvious when you look. No need to remove the wheels to get to them. Grant as always is correct: there is a bleed hole on the opposite side to the nipple, and the grease just goes into the nipple and straight out the opposite side of the hub casting; it does not get forced sideways to the actual bearings which are on each end of the hub fulcrum casting. The only way (that I know of) to ensure grease does get to these actual bearings is a fix explained in the Great Palm's book.
This fix involves (a) closing off the bleed hole with a small self tapper and then (b) and this is very tricky, making a 2mm hole just outside the bearing on each end of this lower outer fulcrum tube so grease is then forced by the gun along to the bearing, through it, and out. This is something that can be done when and if you are replacing the bearings on the fulcrum. I have done it, but it is very easy to knacker the bearing and/or its vital shims when you drill the bleed holes. The only reason to replace these bearings is if the car starts to lose its "track like a guided missile though long fast bends" quality and needs constant steering inputs under these circumstances.
Greg
Great info there too Greg. Cheers mate, you magazine stars are a wealth of knowledge
I will be putting this in note form on Monday. I might even try and take a photo of each grease point so as to help the next poor novice like me!
Dont waste grease on those lower outer nipples, as I mentioned in that write up. Make sure Clarke knows that one, not sure if I sent that to him way back??.
Until that bleed hole is blanked off, they will gobble grease and grease nothing.
Just pump 6 strokes each and leave it.
Then the hubs, through that tin cap, 6 strokes each also, dont fill the hub, not needed.
Nope, you didn't send me that one Grant.
I know about filling the hubs, spent a good 6 months cleaning grease of the rims an trims.
I did not drill that 2mm hole, as I was not in a position to knacker things, so when that bleed hole is blocked off, CAREFULLY grease the pivot, NO silly pressure required, just common sense.
You wil feel resistance as that area fills with grease, and then SLOWLY apply a LITTLE more pressure and you will hear/see the old rusty grease ooze out the felt seals at the ends. TAKE CARE that you dont pressure blow those seals out, again, just common sense, and eventually newish grease will appear, you are done.
BUT
READ ON PAUL.
You will NOT block that bleed hole without removing the halfshaft, and I SERIOUSY doubt you and Clarke are going to go that far on Monday.
SOOOOOOOOO,
Just apply a little grease to that particular nipple and be done with it. That bleed block off is a BIG job.
As for the 6 strokes, that applies ONLY to the rear wheel bearings that are greased thru the tin cap you will prise out of the hub casting, once the road wheel is removed.
The rest of the greasing is ONLY by feel and listening for the "squish" as the grease expels from the seals in that particular area.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 02-02-2017 at 03:55 AM.
Reason: spellimg still sucks
Cheers guys. Ok we'll give the big greaser a miss and just do the others for now. I can't picture all these in my head at the moment but I will have the computer open to this page on Monday thats for sure.
Grant that is six squirts for the rear wheel bearings, I am assuming 6 squirts also for the front wheel bearings as well?
All the grease goes straight into the hollow wishbone and makes grease *****, I had no idea what they were until I squashed one. (spot it up the hollow tube)
Well I had a no brainer moment ....checked my grease gun ready to load in the HTB2 for Monday only to find I have a barely used Castrol Premium Heavy Duty Wheel Bearing grease (same as the one on the right) already loaded in. Derr...That means I went down and bought grease for nothing the other day. Oh well...plenty for the next few hundred services.....
(Clarke, would you like a brand new cartridge of grease?....I now have ample)
Ok so grease I will be using is now on the right. Confirmed with WoOz that either will be ok....
Cheers Clarke for pointing all the grease points out and also for teaching me quite a bit about the IRS, front suspension and handbrake as well. I took some mental notes!
First up it was the important stuff out of the way which was whiskey, cigars and Pink Floyd appreciation time.
The next morning...not too worse for wear we began:
Front wheel hubs:
And...that was it for the front. We couldn't find any other grease points. Spent about 15 mins going over the steering rack and all...no other grease nipples could be found.
Then, off to the rear to do the 10 total IRS grease points and 2 rear wheel bearings.
4 around the Diff plate, the upper fulcrums.
No grease nipples to be found on my universal joint. Must be sealed:
Lower fulcrum grease point...oh look there's Clarke!: (we just pumped it in and made sure you could touch fresh stuff when you put your finger up near the "Grease Ball Tunnel", to at lease ensure grease was getting in where it should. No further work done here as discussed.)
Lower universal...a bit of a bugger to get a big grease gun nozzle in there so we used Clarke's mini one: Upper universal near the rotor
Rear wheel hub. No grease nipple. As the WoOz says you have to pry open that little cap and we just squirted 6 shots in there and sealed it back up: Old grease New grease (blue)
Then it was time to go for a coastal cruise and take some snaps. I got a few on my phone but Clarke too some real beauties on his Camera!
Last edited by paulyling; 02-06-2017 at 01:36 AM.
Reason: Picture Hungry
Slight correction Paul, What you have labeled Upper and lower fulcrum grease points are the universal joints on each end of the half shaft.(#40 in the diagram below labeled as Journals) Upper universal is the inside one near the brake rotor, lower one is on the other end near the hub, both inside the bell shaped covers) ...joint covers.
The upper fulcrum points are the 4 you get to through the holes in the tie plate(base plate you jacked the car up on). The lower fulcrum joints are the ones underneath on the hub carriers.
The shot with my good looking head in it is the lower fulcrum greasing point.
Take note Paul, coz I will forget, the Goose has a DANA diff. NO big deal, just no drain plug, so you will have to syringe the oil out when the diff oil needs changing. The rear rotors are a different number to what I gave you, and I will get that number for you on Saturday, when I again turn up for work, haha.
When you are bored, I would take those stupid tin covers off those half shafts, clean up all the spilt grease and stuff, and leave them off. They are really only needed for the UK and elsewhere that salt is used on the roads, not in Qld that I know of.
Clamps off, drill out the rivets, give Barnie a new toy.
Ha ha he'd probably bury it in the backyard!
Mate you mentioned also about the DANA diff. I have checked the oil about 2 years ago...it was there, not sure of the colour. Seemed ok from memory. (Haven't touched it since)
02-02-2017, 12:53 AM
....checked my grease gun ready to load in the HTB2 for Monday only to find I have a barely used Castrol Premium Heavy Duty Wheel Bearing grease (same as the one on the right) already loaded in. Derr...That means I went down and bought grease for nothing the other day. Oh well...plenty for the next few hundred services.....
whiskey, cigars and Pink Floyd appreciation time. 
(we just pumped it in and made sure you could touch fresh stuff when you put your finger up near the "Grease Ball Tunnel", to at lease ensure grease was getting in where it should. No further work done here as discussed.)
