Hi, I just finished this today, you can do it easily in an afternoon. I don't know if the info is on here already, and honestly its a pretty straightforward easy job. But since i was doing i thought why not just take pics and post in case anyone has questions about it in the future.

I replaced the Banjo washers the other day because they have been leaking since i got the car. The increased pressure blew out my sending unit. If you have the money do these and the idiot light at the same time. I don't have the money so Im leaving the idiot light.

ebay sending unit $25 shipping included
copper washers from Advance auto i think they are called R12s $3.50
Crows foot I could only find at pep boys for $18 (a set)


You will need:
-1/4" ratchet w/ extension and 1/4" socket
-Flathead screwdriver
-8mm open end wrench
-3/8" ratchet w/ 8" extension and 18mm crow foot (for sending unit) you may be able to use a 18mm stubby..gl with that
-3/4" open end wrench (for banjo bolt)
-something to cut zip-ties
First remove the zip ties holding the wires onto the balance pipe.

Then loosen the clamp on the back of the balance pipe and remove hose.
Loosen the 2 clamps on the ends of the balance pipe and remove it.
Next loosen the 4 clamps on the 2 hoses connecting to the top of the check valve and slide them back towards the sides of the car. Slide the 2 hoses along with them towards the fenders and off of the top of the check valve. I loosened the hoses with a screwdriver, it took some convincing to slide them.



Loosen the clamp on the bottom of the check valve and remove it.


Depending on what you are doing use the 3/4 wrench to remove the banjo. I didn't think to take pics until I already replaced mine, blew out the sending unit and had to come back to do it as well. You may have to push the hose leading to the bottom of the check valve towards the firewall some to get the bolt out. Obviously don't overtighten it. The housing is aluminum. oops i mean "aluminium".


Remove the rubber boot from the sending unit and unplug it. Put the crows foot on it and remove. Thread up the new one and you should be good to go. again don't overtighten, just use your brain. Its gotta be enough to seal the copper washer, but not too much. I usually put the flat side of the washer with the edge on the part going on because if it makes an impression or cuts it can always be replaced.





thats about it, I know everyone loves it so I gotta say "reverse order" to put it back together. The balance pipe is sorta annoying to get back on.


real easy fix for a really annoying oil leak, lets hope it doesn't blow something else out when i start it up tomorrow

 

Nice one sidescrollin and thanks for the write up, pics are always a really nice bonus, another FAQ candidate I think?

 

thanks!! anyone that has questions or some kinda correction just let me know.