Idles - but nothing more
#101
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,917
Received 10,975 Likes
on
7,210 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No it won't :-)
I think you meant to type "76 Chevy C10"
An '86 will have the later 7-pin module.
The 4 pin module was used in GM cars/trucks from '74 until about '81 or so. The cut-off wasn't absolute...but in the early 80s most models were getting later modules.
Cheers
DD
#102
#103
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,917
Received 10,975 Likes
on
7,210 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Heh heh, yeah, any veteran parts guys will know exactly what you're talking about.
"Back in the day" we used to keep a small stash of then right at the parts counter so we didn't have to walk back and forth to the parts bins all day long. Sometimes a customer would walk up holding a module in his hands and you've have a new one plopped on the counter before he even had a chance to speak :-)
For a few months I worked at an "AMC-Jeep" dealer. This was so long ago that you could still get parts for American Motors/Ramblers via the Jeep pipeline. Anyhow, there was some old model of AMC car....'71 Ambassador or some such, I can't remember....where the chrome horn ring on the steering wheel would break if you so much as looked at it the wrong way. We'd see a customer approach holding the broken ring and have a new one on the counter and the invoice written (no computer invoicing!) before he walked in the door.
Sorry for the ramble and thanks for letting me stroll down memory lane :-)
Cheers
DD
#104
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
HIGHJACK MODE ON>>>>>>>>It all went down hill about 15 years ago I went into Pep-Boys for some Champion N4 plugs for my Triumph M/C and that's all I asked for, just N4 plugs.....the younger parts-man behind the counter insisted on asking what they were for...finaly I said a Triumph motorcycle...to which he replied "we don't carry motorcycle plugs" the older counter-man stopped what he was doing and politely pointed to the Champion N3, N4, N5 plugs in the bubble packs behind the kid....funny stuff<<<<<HIGHJACK MODE OFF
#105
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Any thoughts of the best of the bunch? Went out yesterday and only found DR100 - but felt that might just be putting bad in for bad. No one had the AC Delco. Now that Doug shared others - thoughts to what one is better? I use to jump right on NAPA, but now a days they have all gone to "cheaper is better" and offer lifetime replacement... (but you still have to deal with the failed part, the tow home, the removal, return, and install! Did this 3 times with a single bowl carb for an old work truck before I got tired and started doing more research like this).
M.
M.
#106
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,917
Received 10,975 Likes
on
7,210 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Personally I'd wait a few days to find/order the AC Delco version. Over the years it seems as though they hold up the best. The local GM dealer can get one for you under the GM number or you can easily order one on-line.
Hard to know what you're getting nowadays, though, even with name brands. For all I know the Delco part might easily be a re-labeled NAPA part.....
Cheers
DD
Hard to know what you're getting nowadays, though, even with name brands. For all I know the Delco part might easily be a re-labeled NAPA part.....
Cheers
DD
#109
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Found one at O'Riely - well, it will be here tomorrow. Also in my searches I found: http://www.performancedistributors.com/modules.htm
If the AC Delco fixes the problem, the D.U.I. one seems to be "enhanced" somehow and may try it out (then have the AC Delco as a "backup").
Does it not make sense to relocate this heat sensitive electronic part elsewhere (that it can get cool air)? I know on the airplanes we have a separate duct that pushes air to the mags....
First - get the car running - THEN experiment!!!!
M.
If the AC Delco fixes the problem, the D.U.I. one seems to be "enhanced" somehow and may try it out (then have the AC Delco as a "backup").
Does it not make sense to relocate this heat sensitive electronic part elsewhere (that it can get cool air)? I know on the airplanes we have a separate duct that pushes air to the mags....
First - get the car running - THEN experiment!!!!
M.
#110
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Per the guys at D.U.I. the difference is that theirs have a longer dwell allowing for a bigger gap. they are checking into the application for our car and I will keep you posted (they said they want to check the info on the coil - as they may be recommending upgrading that at the same time).
#111
#112
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
JT, that is what I am planning on - I have the AC Delco coming in tomorrow and if it is not raining - may attack it. THEN - once it is running again, look at the D.U.I. (and keep the AC Deco as a spare). I agree - fix first, improve/modify second. Keeping my fingers crossed - but the good news is I am pretty certain of what it is not (with all the things I have touched and tested...).
Last edited by mquinn; 12-05-2012 at 07:41 AM.
#114
#117
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK, bright idea ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
In lieu of a scope, connect a 6V (or possibly 9 or 12V) bulb to one injector plug instead of the injector. Darkish room or at night outdoors. Choose a bulb that glows half-bright at idle. When you give the pedal a push the bulb should at least momentarily brighten if the pulses are lengthening.
EDIT: IIRC the resistance of the injector is about 3 Ohms but inductance will mean current is lower that 3 Ohms would indicate. Check with Ohmmeter to be absolutely certain, you don't want to damage the amp. Possibly a 1 W bulb is a good starting point.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
In lieu of a scope, connect a 6V (or possibly 9 or 12V) bulb to one injector plug instead of the injector. Darkish room or at night outdoors. Choose a bulb that glows half-bright at idle. When you give the pedal a push the bulb should at least momentarily brighten if the pulses are lengthening.
EDIT: IIRC the resistance of the injector is about 3 Ohms but inductance will mean current is lower that 3 Ohms would indicate. Check with Ohmmeter to be absolutely certain, you don't want to damage the amp. Possibly a 1 W bulb is a good starting point.
Last edited by Per; 12-07-2012 at 11:28 AM.
#118
#119
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
JT, I do not have a spare. I am pretty certain the XJ6 is different as I looked at one in the local bone yard - I am pretty certain the connectors are different. If you can find a loaner - let me know - I will gladly pay for shipping both ways - and have it returned in a day or two.
Thanks!
M.
Thanks!
M.
#120
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My friend Mike said he has two on the shelf at his garage. He said he'd gladly loan one out. I will call him today. I'm going out of town tomorrow till tuesday evening so hopefully he can be there today to get it. He's been working on Jaguars for some 40 years and when I told him your problem he said to check on a two prong connector between the capstan and the firewall just behind the crossover....don't know what it goes to but he said he had an XJS under his care the owner could only start and idle and it was that connector. Heck worth looking into I suppose. I'll PM you what I find out about the ECU.