Idles - but nothing more
#121
#122
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The micro switch next to the capstan is the enrichment switch....easy check, just push it while the car idles and the RPM's should come up slightly, working or not this shouldn't cause your problem. The capstan position sensor should tell the ECU to pulse the injectors (sorry if my terminology is wrong) as it's rotated in conjunction with the butterflys letting more air in....this IMO would cause your problem if it's not sending a signal.
The D-Jetronic Throttle Switch
http://www.remschel.com/TPS.htm
The D-Jetronic Throttle Switch
http://www.remschel.com/TPS.htm
Last edited by JTsmks; 12-09-2012 at 07:13 AM.
#123
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Throttle Position Sensor Testing
It's important to remember that even if the componant checks fine (TPS) all it's connectors and wires must be good from point A (TPS) to point B (ECU) to point C (injector harness).
It's important to remember that even if the componant checks fine (TPS) all it's connectors and wires must be good from point A (TPS) to point B (ECU) to point C (injector harness).
#124
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Not sure if I understand the question.
But, anyway, what are the wire colors?
Cheers
DD
#125
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The micro switch next to the capstan is the enrichment switch....easy check, just push it while the car idles and the RPM's should come up slightly, working or not this shouldn't cause your problem. The capstan position sensor should tell the ECU to pulse the injectors (sorry if my terminology is wrong) as it's rotated in conjunction with the butterflys letting more air in....this IMO would cause your problem if it's not sending a signal.
This is such a long hread that you probably missed posts 21-24 where the TPS has already be checked. :-)
No offense intended but just to keep things less confusing it might be a good idea to avoid any references and links to the early style throttle position *switch*. It operates entirely differently than the throttle position *sensor* used on the car in question
Much better :-)
Cheers
DD
#126
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Apparently it is a known fault with this type of fuel injection, that the hot wire air flow sensor dies. The car starts without referencing the sensor, and will idle using the last good settings it had, but as soon as the throttle is moved, it dies.
Hope this helps.
Let us know the results.
Hope this helps.
Let us know the results.
#127
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#128
#129
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fred, I _think_ this is interpreted by the Throttle Position Sensor and not actually measured like the newer cars with the MAF sensor. I have checked at the TPS but not certain how (which wires) at the ECU and the TPS was reading right in range and no spikes nor drops detected thru the full range of motion.
#130
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No air flow metering or measurement per se; no air flow meter.
The system primarily relies on the throttle position sensor and the barometric pressure sensor in the ECU
Cheers
DD
#131
#132
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Pin number:
(Pin nos. read from Right to Left as you look at them in the ECU, opposite to normal writing) :
Bottom row:
1 = not used.
2 = EARTH
3 = not used
4 = not used
5 = Coolant temp sensor LH thermo housing
6 = not used
7 = TPS (yellow/white) This carries the wiper signal from the TPS so voltage should vary with throttle position.
8 = Connects with pin (9) and then goes to pin 4 of the resistor pack, via 2 connector splices.
9 = see 8 above
10 = not used
11 = to pin (10) of resistor pack
12 = to pin (7) of resistor pack
13 = Connects with pin (14) and then goes to pin (1) of resistor pack, via 2 connector splices.
14 = see 13 above
15 = Orange wire to pin (85) of the fuel pump relay (Earth of that relay).
16 = EARTH
17 = Start inhibit switch. Mostly known as the “neutral start switch”. The other side of the inhibit switch goes to pin (W1) of starter relay.
18 = the “shielded” wire from the ignition module. The central core (thin wire) connects here. The “shielding” is earthed at this area also.
Top row:
19 = TPS (Yellow/Black) and picking up a splice that is the 2nd wire to the coolant temp sensor in the LH thermo housing.
20 = TPS (Yellow/Pink) and picking up a splice that goes to the air temp sensor (one side). This is the 5 volt feed to the TPS and other sensors.
21 = Air temp sensor 2nd wire.
22 = Power (12v) to ALL injectors, via 4 splices. This power is supplied by pin (87) of the main relay, and the terminal (22) of the ECU is actually “power IN” to the ECU.
23 = not used
24 = not used
25 = not used
26 = To pin C1/C4 of starter relay.
27 = Pin (6) of resistor pack with a splice of pin (28).
28 = See above (27)
29 = Pin (8) of resistor pack.
30 = Pin (5) of resistor pack.
31 = Pin (3) of resistor pack with a splice of pin (32).
32 = See above (31).
33 = not used.
34 = EARTH
35 = EARTH
#135
#138
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Not getting very far as I have been out of the country. Back to trying to figure out this USB scope. (funny steve - I did not realize my last post was a _bit_ cut short (no pun intended)). Still have this V12 yard ornament - electronics has NEVER been my strong suit. Anyone live near Charlotte, NC that can help?
#139
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In the meantime, try this simplified version: Connect a 12V (may need to go to 6V) bulb at one of the injector connectors instead of the injector. When idling it should glow dimly. If it goes out promptly when you toch the pedal we are one important step further. If it just stays equally dim until shutting down we have still learned something. If it at least momentarily glows a bit brighter we have also learned something useful.