Instrument cluster gouges, tach, speedo, trip computer all stopped working?
#1
Instrument cluster gouges, tach, speedo, trip computer all stopped working?
So I took the cluster out to replace the bulbs with LEDs. put it back in, now trip computer, all the gauges, and half the idiot lights don't work. I checked all the fuses I think. The film looks a little rough so I added a ground to the metal bar. What else do these 2 items have in common, did I miss a fuse somewhere?
#4
You have to be VERY careful about replacing the two loom multiplugs back into the cluster, this is a hard task at the best of times, and it is very easy to push the copper contacts awry on the cluster and the plug. It sounds to me as though this is your problem. Nothing for it but to remove and cluster and take a look/realign the contacts and try again.
Greg
Greg
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#6
Greg
#7
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#9
No. The polarity reversal might account for some of the bulbs not working; but the multiplug (and/or a broken copper track on the bendy blue circuit board) is more likely to account for the speedo problem, assuming it was working before.
#10
#11
Very cool image but this is of the newer style cluster. I think this is the image that I need to follow. But it doesn't show the polarity. I'm starting to suspect I have broken one or more of the copper "channels" Can this film be repaired? Anyone know who I would contact for such a service?
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snapsdata/2~1120870845.JPG
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snapsdata/2~1120870845.JPG
#12
Greg W, good luck with your film. Repairing foil damage on pcb is one thing, using pens available to "re-write" tracks in liquid silver or copper, but foil tracks on film are rarely treated with the respect they deserve. Many will crack tracks with anything more than modest flexing. Spending 25yrs in a harsh car environment makes them sleeping dogs that can bite hard!
Sorry if I sound so negative but my skin still crawls at the hours spent tracing around with DMM or 'scope probes trying to find "cracks in tracks". On the bright side, it is a task ideally made for DIY. Imagine handing a customer a bill for $1100 once a single minute crack had finally been found and repaired. Let's hope it is the multi-plug issue highlighted by Greg in F.
Best wishes,
Ken
#13
#14
I have never used conductive pen, so can not comment on its longevity.
I have always repaired traces by soldering wire to the trace (except for surface mount PCB repair)
Greg one problem with the signature is it does not show when you post on a mobile device. Hopefully the developers will fix this eventually.
I have always repaired traces by soldering wire to the trace (except for surface mount PCB repair)
Greg one problem with the signature is it does not show when you post on a mobile device. Hopefully the developers will fix this eventually.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (08-29-2017)
#17
The image I provided, of the DAC7999 circuit diagram shows polarity and indicates what color light goes where. This circuit sheet fits Jaguars
XJS from (V)179737 to (V)226645. When I replaced my binnacle lighting, I had to purchase a new DAC7999 due to the shredding to several copper strips on the 2 connections. My LEDS were purchased via Superbright (St Louis).
Mert
XJS from (V)179737 to (V)226645. When I replaced my binnacle lighting, I had to purchase a new DAC7999 due to the shredding to several copper strips on the 2 connections. My LEDS were purchased via Superbright (St Louis).
Mert
#18
Back to your problem.
I suspect you have 2 issues. 1) being polarity of LED's and 2) an issue with the cluster traces, more than likely where the connector seats.
1) to ensure all LED's are in the correct way use a 9V battery to check polarity. LED's will only work one way.
2) the connector - use a pencil eraser to clean the connector terminals, and inspect them for damage, most likely they will peal off the backing.
I suspect you have 2 issues. 1) being polarity of LED's and 2) an issue with the cluster traces, more than likely where the connector seats.
1) to ensure all LED's are in the correct way use a 9V battery to check polarity. LED's will only work one way.
2) the connector - use a pencil eraser to clean the connector terminals, and inspect them for damage, most likely they will peal off the backing.
#19
#20
Is there 12 volts at the TC lights? if so swap the LED polarity.
One thing I did forget to mention, DO NOT replace the ALT bulb with LED this will prevent the ALT light from working correctly. This light MUST be polarity independent, otherwise the light will not light if you have failure.
The ALT light is designed to turn on if either the battery or alternator fail. If you replace it with LED the light will light if the ALT fails but not if the battery fails.
One thing I did forget to mention, DO NOT replace the ALT bulb with LED this will prevent the ALT light from working correctly. This light MUST be polarity independent, otherwise the light will not light if you have failure.
The ALT light is designed to turn on if either the battery or alternator fail. If you replace it with LED the light will light if the ALT fails but not if the battery fails.