This stud has no nut , is it a ground, or should I just put a nut on it.? The reason I took it out is the lights in the cluster aren’t functioning correctly.

 

What's the problem with the fog lights? Front ir back? Is it the lights themselves or just the warning light not coming on when you turn on the lights?

Paul

 

Actually the fog lights work and the light comes on, the emergency brake light , ignition light, not coming on, the bulb out warning light comes on when the head lights are turned on, 1st lockout no light, but the sport mode light works. The low coolant light came on but is now off, the coolant wasn’t low. The car runs and drives great, but I would like the important “Secret-Till-Lit” warning light to work. On the bench most work, the anti lock brake and ignition light are two that won’t light , I use the standard bulb in ignition, anti lock, and sport, but LED in all the other. Haven’t reinstalled since bulb change, I will today and see what happens.

 

There could be a few issues here:

- LED bulbs cause 2 issues. Most LED bulbs are polarity-dependent, so you have to install them the correct way around. Also LED bulbs, because they draw such little current can cause current leakage across neigbouring circuits, so you can get other bulbs inadvertently illuminating. I would swap all the bulbs back to standard bulbs and then verify if everything works when installed in the car. Then at least you'll know if it's the LED bulbs.

- The bulb failure light is supposed to come on when you turn on the sidelights. It will illuminate for approx 25 seconds and will then extinguish if all circuits are ok. Also, if you've changed your front or rear sidelight bulbs to LED bulbs, and not recalibrated, or bypassed, the bulb failure units, then the failure bulb will definitely always come on and stay on.

- The handbrake warning light often needs 2 clicks on the handbrake lever to register. Try bridging the handbrake switch terminals to verify if it's the switch or the instrument cluster.

Paul

 

Oddly enough, after looking through some eBay ads for Jaguar XJS cluster, that stud always appears without a visible nut.

 

That point doesn't seem to be a part of the printed circuit, so it doesn't seem to be an earth point and, therefore, wouldn't need a nut.

Paul

 

Thanks for your advice all, I’m using the old incandescent bulbs in three places, ignition, check engine and sport. That stud without a nut if I put 12 volts to it and ground a light it will light, so some continuity on that stud, definitely not a ground! I’m putting this back in and see what happens. Another note the insturment diagram in the XJS service manual,1992 on, my warning lights are in a different order, I don’t have the caravan light, but have a 1st gear lockout light, probably for the ZF transmission ? Anyway back to the garage.

 

The Warning light layout changed during the life of the facelift XJS. And it has variations for different world markets. I can show you a picture of the 95 Handbook UK layout, but it might vary for US cars.

Cheers

Paul

 

Thanks Paul , have a wire diagram, reinstalled the gauge cluster, when I turn the key to start, the battery light comes on and the check engine light come on, I remember the ignition light came on before I think. When started they go out. Also it is probably the park brake switch but haven’t taken that apart . Is it just the little button type switch on the park break handle? I disconnected 3 of the bulb out sensors and left the other 1 connected, now the bulb out light functions like it should . I have to do some more bulb checking, no led bulbs on outside , except the third brake light and the license plate lights. I’m not going to worry about this dash light problem to much, the car runs great and it’s summer ,time to drive.

 

SECRET- TILL - LIT dash lights layout on my 1995 XJS 4.0L total 20 All white bulbs are LED and much brighter.

 

Scottsxjs95,

So which bulbs aren't illuminating properly now?

Which bulb failure modules did you disconnect? At the rear, the numberplate lights are part of the bulb failure system. So, if you've put LEDs in there, it's likely that the bulb failure light will illuminate every time the lights are on. The high-mounted brake light doesn't go through the failure system, so you're ok with LED bulbs in that.

Also, it's important you verify if the handbrake light problem is the cluster or the switch, as a fault in the switch will preclude you from opening and closing the roof.

Cheers

Paul

 

Where did you get your bulbs from?

I've tried SuperbrightLEDs.com and they just won't fit.

 

I did put led in the number plate lights, and disconnected the bulb fail , 2, in the rear, the bulb fail light works now , turns off after a bit when the marker lights are turned on, the brake light still doesn’t work, but the top goes up and down and the brake engages.
I used super bright, the bulbs fit , they are polarity sensitive also . Thank for your help, Paul and Vee, a little advise and encouragement goes a long way.
Scott

 

The super bright # for the small ones, B 8.5D WHP cool white 5900K, I used 17, and three original ( check engine, sport, ignition), the larger ones for gauge illumination (194) Base T 3.25 S-TW , Bulb 194-BCOB1W BLUE, the contact points on all the bulbs led or original are a little fussy, not the best but can be bent a little to make a tight contact and firm installation. The blue led,s are a big improvement for the gauge illumination.
Scott

 

Replacing All my Binnacle Bulbs with Brighter 5 Watt ones

How I did this including Loads of Photos and Step by Step Instructions

The difference was literally between 'Night and Day' and Well worth doing

How I changed all the Binnacle Light Bulbs on my XHS V12