HellO and good morning good people.

Well after a rough winter and being treated like a bag of poop by a mean woman, lol, Spring is springing and I am back at the 1990 XJS. I have along ways to go, still, and thanks to folks here - both on line (threads) and off (private email) - I have gotten a lot done... She IS "on the road" in the most fundamental and practical way (to have a car on the road in NYC is MUST be insured and registered - I have no garage). So, shis "on the road" just to move her around, test stuff, do the work - because yes - I got a long way to go.

When I drive - LOTS of clunks, clicks and knocks. Thinking my LH exhaust is banging around in the IRS cage and some other stuff I need to sort out.

Anyways... So far: THANKS GRANT!
Water pump 3x to get it right - OMG!
Repaired gas tank nickle solder and epoxy.
All front sub fame mounts.
Upper and lower front shock bushings.
LH driver side floor cut and bolted in (for now).
Transmission mount and bushing uner there.
Tranny fluid, filter, cover, gasket and vac modulator.
Re-dyed convertible top black from blue (saving every penny).
I BROKE and then replace convertible top motor/pump (pisssst). I have the old one, needs a drive gear if anyone needs?
New head liner - have NO idea how to place or tuck it in at back window area - HEEEEELP!?!?!
Rebuilt fuel rail and reset throttle potent-she-o-meter.
Plugs, rotor, cap and wires.
Lots of rad work and coolant stuff.
Replaced steering rack and bushings.
New Steering wheel - nice!
Control arms and ball joints.
New front hub bearings & set them.
New front brakes and rotors.
Some throttle body stuff.
Exhaust gaskets and re-positioning system.
Replaced some sensors here and there.
Then more....

I NEED a source on XJS Front Lower Valance Panel Jaguar part number - RTC1531. Would love some help on this if anyone could lead me...

Amazing ride so far. But I still have questions.

NEED to give a shout out --- I found a great guy to weld in my now bolted in LH floor board in Staten Island. Whiteys Welding - 141 Andros Ave, Staten Island, NY 10303 - (718) 727-9224. Met him, amazing guy, super reputation and understands the DIY reality budget wise. Will be having that done this week.

About the dash - My speedometer, oil pressure gauge doesn't work. When I remove the cluster,,, will the speedo be electric or mechanical? Some pictures show what looks electric connection others show a cable drive. When does it LINK into the tranny? Also, even though all lights work my light (trouble) indicator does not go off when lights are on. Then, battery (trouble) light and what looks like my radiator or coolant (trouble) lights are all on. It seems the batter might be illuminating the coolant but I don't know. Coolant levels are fine.

She sat for more than 10 years. Are there ANY general maintenance steps, approaches, procedures for the cluster and WHAT should I expect once I get back there??? Its a beyond the budget expensive if if I mess something up so I really feel the need to be careful and know what I'm getting into,,, before I get into it.

Another thing - general question - is there anything special (scary) I should know about changing radius control arm bushings in the rear before I get going? I have been soaking them in penetrate the last days and look forward to unbolting and changing them out this weekend.

AUTO ADDITION! - I got a 1986 Porsche 928. 5.0 manual. Got her running last week-smooth. Prussian Blue, lovely (see below). Sat for 3yrs and needs lots O love. When did I become a CAR GUY?

I so appreciate ANY help, suggestions and advice - but you all know that already! Thanks in advance!


Day light photos soon to come


Dont be hating,,,, you Jag guys! This just happened by chance, lol

 

Hi Bro

Taking out the Instrument Binnacle takes about 10 Minutes but you need to pull the lever on the Steering Column

To drop the Steering Wheel down as low as it goes

As you 'Carefully' as in 'Really Carefully' pull the Binnacle out

You have to be very Careful you don't damage the Printed Circuit thats behind it

Its a massive great Printed Circuit, you can't miss it

And in the Back of this Printed Circuit are Two Big Multi Plugs

Which you need to disconnect from the Printed Circuit, being very Careful not to damage it!

Just Carefully 'Jiggle them out'

As soon as those Two Plugs are out, you can take the Binnacle out of the Car altogether

The chances are that one of those Multiplugs and or Sockets has got some dirty or corroded Contacts

So Carefully Clean both Plugs and Sockets with some electrical contact Cleaner, then put it all back together and hope that it works!

I had to do this when my Speedo packed up and then it started working again

Here is how I did it on Page: 76 of my 'Cherry Blossom' restoration Thread

And here is a link to that page: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...122634/page76/

 

Ha! Beautiful. Just read the post and I think I will get to it after work today. Yes,,, looks a lil scary... Thanks so much!

HEY!? What about the other stuff?

 

Hi Jay

Never done Radius Arm Stuff before

So you want Greg/Grant/Doug/Jagboi on those

 

Cool. Thank you. I was just playing around. Beautiful right-up in the cluster. Considering the number of bits and pieces I have lost to the MACHINE, I think I'm going to have ta make one of the screwdrivers - and a wrench or ten. Thanks again. Talk soon

 

Hi Jay

I had to make that Screwdriver because I didn't have a Magnetic one, because the one thing you don't want to do is to lose those 2 Screws which are underneath the little plastic covers on each side

So take those two out first and then the middle one, then very gently lever out the plastic trims from the bottom and then pull it out from each side

Some say use a Pencil Eraser to clean the Contacts on the Plugs and sockets but I also used a small Screwdriver to scratch off that build up of Varnish like stuff and used plenty of Spray Contact Cleaner (it only took me a couple of hours to do that!) Lol

The worse part was getting the Steering Wheel to drop down, as I was pushing the lever forward instead of pulling it backwards (no I don't know why either!)

It just didn't seem to feel like the kind of lever that would pull backwards and I've never been able to lower that Wheel since the day I bought the Car

Which was over 14 Years ago but as you can see in the Thread that you read, my 'Smart Alec' GF pulled the Lever Backwards and lowered the Wheel in just Seconds!

And then went into 'Smug Mode' for the rest of the day and beyond and even tried claiming Credit for doing the Whole Job!

As for all the other Stuff 'Greg and the Wizard' (and others) are the real mechanics, I haven't even got a Socket Set

Just a motley collection of stuff that I've picked up at Yard Sales



The right size Socket must be in there somewhere!

 

OB has covered the gauges.

With the ALT/Coolant light

Coolant - there is a connector on the header tank check this.

ALT light - with engine running check voltage at battery, it should be around 14 volts, if it is low then the alternator is not charging.

 

No hating from this Jag guy. Always liked the 928s. Not as much as the 964s, true, but the rear view in particular is cool.

 

The speedometer is electric. It reads off of a sensor in the differential, not the transmission. The oil pressure could be in the cluster, but seems more likely it would be a failed sending unit at the back of the engine.

 

Valence panel RTC1531:
Jaguar XJS Front Lower Valance Panel - RTC1531
or
Jaguar Partno_RTC1531_LOWER FRONT PANEL XJS_David Manners Group
or
https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/part/RTC1531


Love the 928, the only German car I have ever admired. Great work on the XJS, congratulations.
Radius arms:


Jack up the rear and chock front wheels carefully. Remove the rod that the lower end of the shocks are held by, only comes out forwards, note the order of the spacers and washers. This allows access to the small (rear) end of the arm. Knock back the radians on the special star locking washer and undo the specially trimmed bolt. The flat on the head has to be aligned to clear the shock tube on the lower wishbone. Undo the large (forward) end bolt that goes up through the centre from below having removed the lockwire and the safety strap. The large end may be stuck. The arm has a dish and it fits onto a cup on the chassis. A colt chisel against the join that you can JUST see above the bush and a couple of GOOD whacks with a lump hammer and it will come off.
Fit the new one on the small end first with a new star washer, but do NOT tighten or lock the star washer radians.
Fit the large end, and if it is a bit off centre put a block of wood or a jack under it on the forward edge and lower the car a bit to get it home. Replace the bolt, safety strap and lockwire the main bolt.
THEN, replace the shocker rod. Place a block under the rear wheel and lower the car onto it, so the suspension is loaded at the normal mid point. The block is there to give you room to finally tighten the small end's bolt and then knock back the safety washer radians to lock the bolt head, both to the head and to the suspension arm.
Good luck and once again great work under difficult conditions. A true XJS addict!

 

Hello Greg, OB and SuperCharged...

Thank you ALL...

Looks like I have some chasing to do on the speedo. To be expected. Maybe it will be fixed by cleaning the instument cluster...

I took the cluster out last night. JEEEEZE. Wasnt pretty back there. I was affraid to do more harm than good. I am sorry I've not been taking pictures of all this work and contributing to the forum,,, BUT when one is doing things that they have never done before,,, one tends to focus on the matters at hand, so to speak.

I cleaned the cluster up as best I can and will reinstall tomorrow, hopefully with pictures. I broke (clearly) one circut connection at ONE of the main cluster lights/illuminator/bulb socks. Sucks! but it basicly turned to dust when I removed the plug and bulb fixture. ****! Is there any way to do a quick repair/solder on a ribbon like this - thats easy??? ANY trick products?

Greg... I'd found and checked 2 of those sites... 2 of them (the least expensive) are out of stock but still - THANK YOU! The spread from $30 USD to 120 EURO (the $120+ are available, the $30 not) makes me wanna WAIT until I can find the 30, lol. I'll come up with something. But thanks. I would love to just FABRICATE one... Its not a complicated part, ya know?

GOOD THING THOUGH - From the 'offical' jaguar site, at least I learned that I can use one anywhere from and 87 to a 96 MY... Thats good to know!

REAR END - PERFECT,,, and thank you for the descript... I ordered the bushings and will get it done ASAP. Praying nothing is rusted up, frozen on and/or siezed... Hoping things come right off. No broken bolts, and stuff. The car has amazingly little, alsmost NO, rust. In that I have been blessed.

So - ONWARD. I appreciate all of y'alls help, support and attention

p.s. - and I promise, I will start taking pictures and doing write ups. 50hours a week work, FT school and three european restores (and mean women) dont leave a guy a lot of time, lololol...

Stay well!

 

Hi Bro

If you're not too bothered about the Correct Mileage reading showing up on the Mileometer, it could be better/quicker/cheaper to get another Binnacle from a Breakers Yard

Now you know how to get the thing out, then you could replace it in a 'Snap' and maybe cure all those problems in one go!

 

Hmmm. Cheaper?

If push comes to shove, perhaps. Thing is money is tight and hard to get... If I dont have to do that I would save a buck or two and use the one I have.

AND,,, XJS are not that easy to find here... Are they easy-r for you there? If so, shoot, I got a list of orders for ya, lol... I could send ya on a goose chase

What I think Im going to try first is some cooper ribbon tape. I just ordered a small role on EBAY. 20ft for 3 bucks. What I will try to do, I think, is take a piece of that tape, connect one end to what is left of the ribbon copper on the panel and the other end into the slot/reciever in the "binnacle". LOVE that word

We'll see how it goes...

Really though. Can you get parts from junk yard there?

 

Hi Jay

We do have a few breakers in the UK but I would have thought that you would have a lot more where you are

Maybe someone on Craigs List is Breaking one

 

Yeah... I've been keeping a look out. That valence has been hard to come by. At least one that survived... Thought I would ask. Thanks tho 😁

 

I take it you are trying to repair the printed circuit with copper tape. For your info the tape does not electrically connect well at the splice. When you connect at the splice use a 25 watt soldering iron and connect with a solder joint. If you get a new printed circuit it should be for your year car. They are interchangeable but the circuits are slightly different. I found this out using a 1995 in a 1993 car. But, with minor modifications they will electrically work!

 

Here is a writeup on how to repair the instrument cluster.

 

Hey Warron (all) thanks so so much.

Believe it or not a lot of the things on that PDF I kinda did/tried. I am super afraid to take an soldering iron to the thing. I dont have a lot of fine soldering experience. But hey! If push comes to shove, maybe. I will try the copper tape, at least for the light and see what happens.

Putting it back together things didn't turn out so bad. Tach is more responsive, everything is brighter, RH turn signal works and and... I came to realize that its just he battery light that is on and it was illuminating others - kinda tricked me. Still though, no speedometer. No oil pressure either. I went to check the OPressure sender but could not for the life of me figure out where that third/bottom skinny steel brake-line hose-ish line ends up to remove. The one other than the ones that attach to the backs of the valve covers. I wanted to remove the whole thing thinking it clogged or gummed up. She sat for more than 10yrs... What a tough area to work in! I got 7.9 volts at the plug so there is power,,, just dont know if its the right voltage.

I guess I have to get underneath and search out the location of the wiring on the diff to sort out the SpeedO. Any pointers on where that is back there?

 

Hi Bro

Although there's a Sender in the rear diff, trying to even get a Spanner in there to undo it, is not just the job from Hell but the job from Hell and back!

Try everything else before you try that, its a Nightmare!

 

Secret to solder is LOTS of power. I have a soldering rework station and always use my Iron turned up full wack 450°C with the biggest tip that will fit the job. You do need to be quick, but this method causes less heat soak/damage. I was taught this method by an old tech when I was an apprentice.