JJJ
Do NOT touch any of those oil feed lines. It is not necessary to do so to fix the oil pressure sender of the oil pressure warning light. The two senders are on top of the casting that sits in the V behind the throttle capstan. This casting, that also has the oil feed pipe going into it, is NOT strong. You should see the two senders, one smaller about thimble sized (the warning light) and one like a canister, maybe 1 1/2 inches or so in diameter. This larger one is the oil pressure gauge sender. If you pull off the wire and ground it, ignition on, the gauge should move (ask someone to look at the gauge while you just touch the wire to earth quickly). Ditto the warning light sender wire should illuminate the light.
If this all works, then it is the senders that are the problem. Changing them requires great care, as just heaving with a spanner on them will sheer off the casting and totally ruin your month!
If the senders need changing and they frequently do, proceed as follows:

• Remove the throttle capstan (post for how-to suggestions if you would like them)
• Remove the support that the capstan sits on; then you can get to the senders properly
• One spanner on the sender and one counter-torqueing on the casting it is screwed into is essential of the casting will break off.

Hope this helps, good effort so far on the instruments.

 

Warren is right on target with his soldering method. I used a 25 matt iron because it is light and easy to handle. The real secret is to use paste flux and wire solder. As soon as the solder flows on the work pull the iron away. It's a fast process in and out. I bought double sided conducting tape 1/16 wide and used it for tracers. It worked fine except at the splice it had to be soldered. So single sided conductor tape is a better fix than double sided. My suggestion to you is to practice soldering a piece of tape on celluloid until you get the knack. Believe me it is easy!

 

HellO all... Damn its good to have folks to call on for advise and guidance with this machine!

Greg, Thank you so much. Great advise and I will put your tests to the test! I tested the thimble wire - about 8 volts? Not the OP sender wire but will...

Believe it or not, without breaking anything, I had 2 of the three banjos off the oil lines. One driver's side @ cam cover/CHead, and then the main that ties into the back of tower-ish casting where the thimble light trigger (which I've replaced) and the larger OP sender sit. The workspace was tight but thankfully I got them off and put them back on without destroying anything - did lose a copper washer though....... Shweeeew. Its the warnings like you just offered GiF that saves lives in the Jaguar XJS world so, much appreciated. You know me (or are getting to maybe, lol) I was planning on going back IN, determined to get at it, and get em off. I will not now. TY. If I had a dollar for everything I've dropped into the engine bay (copper washer this time) that just seemed to evaporate into thin air,,, my costs in reviving "cherry blossom" would be covered, lol...

So GiF, for the OPress senders and related lines. Let me ask. I can take the throttle tower out, get to the OPress casting, remove one or both of the senders - from there - can I pour anything down the lines to clear them (if clogged)? Use pressured air? Do they CLOG?

Looks like I have to learn to solder. It's time, anyways. I've never been any good at it. YouTube here I come. I also want to reroute some wiring in the engine bay, so it's just a matter of time before I need to get into the soldering. I know its a different type, wire and ribbon, but, yeah... Is there a "MAP" of that ribbon anywhere? I tried for the first time (wish I had a picture) a couple of days ago, working to repair this skinny *** wire that runs up as ground on a fuel gauge sender that goes into the tank of a Porsche. It did not go well and all that happened was the solder holding the wire to the tab I needed got so hot that it released and now, instead of one, I have two soldering fixes - and I don't know how to do the ONE, lol... I was going to get McGuiver.

OB - I have a set of trailing/radius arm bushings I plan to replace in the next days. I also have a great write up from GF down-under to drop the IRS. I am EXCITED to do this. I just have to figure out when I guess.... That's when I will approach the SpeedO pick up at diff, OB. But, lol,,, still, I at least want to see the speedO sender! Where should I be looking, roughly? I've been known to jam my arms and hands into those kinda spaces. A few forearm burns to prove it haha.

Time is not on my side lately... FT work and School... I've got an engine swap for my XK8 coming up and a "new" Porsche that I have to get ready for an "inspection" (NYState red tape) to bring from a "salvage vehicle" to a "road ready" vehicle title. PITA and $200 bucks plus towing (at least tow one way) to the inspections station..

FORWARD!

Thanks so so much for your help and attention y'all!!! Really!

 

Hi Jay

You can't miss the Speedo Pick up Sensor, its sticking out of the diff with a very thick wire on it that goes into the Boot/Trunk

The only problem being that it is also in between the Cage, where it is 'almost' impossible to get in there with a Spanner to undo it

To put it in perspective, it might be a little bit easier trying to cross Niagara Falls with a Blind Fold on and so the best and probably the only way to do it, would be to drop the IRS Cage

Or better still start at the easiest end and try and get another 'Binnacle' from somewhere and then work your way back

As trying to get that Sensor 'Thingy' unbolted from the diff could very easily lead on to Self Harming

One other thing that you could try, would be to run an Auxiliary Earth to the Binnacle