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Be very careful dealing with QuickCat or any of Brian's new sites. Many of us here have lost money to him.
If you go ahead, use Paypal. That's the best way to make sure you can get a refund in case the items you ordered are never shipped. If you order, you will most likely get what appears to be a shipping notice, but it will actually be an intent to ship, not the actual notice itself.
is this a good price for a intakefar a xjs v12 $405 i fuond the intake at qickcat
if you order from Brian ( which I have on three occasions) call first, make sure he has it, place the order while he's on the phone with you. I have those, got them from Brian and I'm very happy with the product. Got all three things that way and got them in days after ordering via the phone.
i came across this looking for a cold air intake for a 90 xjs
B&B PERFORMANCE LINE ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM * Add more HORSEPOWER up to 17 HP guaranteed.
* Powerful fan: 26000 rpm and 1.3 psi boost pressure.
* Street & Emission Legal in all 50 US States.
* Complete kits included (pre-assembled wiring harness, fuse, power relay, and activation switch).
* Easy bolt-on self installation with complete instructions included.
* Work with All Jaguar Vehicles. Attach to factory air-box unit / aftermarket cone air filter with 2.5" - 3.5" intake port diameter. Please specify your Jaguar year & model when ordering
If you want a cold air intake on a V12 probably the best (not easiest) is through the back of the headlight housing. Making room for the plumbing is doable . The biggest thing is relocating the "Lucas power resistor", on the passenger side (USA).
Is it worth all the work ?? Many pros & cons. A lot of 60's high performance cars have it, you be the judge.
Lawrence
I agree about these things being warm air intakes.
I have 2 aftermarket temperature sensors in the engine bay. One is beside the brake booster. The other is on the front of the panel that goes across the radiator. It is common to see a 40deg C delta between these 2 gauges. I think spending time to get cold air from outside the engine bay is the best way to go.
I agree about these things being warm air intakes.
I have 2 aftermarket temperature sensors in the engine bay. One is beside the brake booster. The other is on the front of the panel that goes across the radiator. It is common to see a 40deg C delta between these 2 gauges.
Sarc, that is really interesting data. Is that in traffic, or on the run, please?
Greg
Waste of money. The later V12 had a cold air intake on top of the radiator mount and tubes to the intake. Head light intake is an alternative but is it really worth it? The car has a lot of weight to move.
Thats sitting in traffic. On a run there is still a delta. Maybe 20deg C, but it takes a long time to get the engine bay to cool down at all
Sarc
What are you using to take the temps, is it fairly cheap and easy to install. I would love to have the data on my car. Thanks again for posting this.
greg
Sarc
What are you using to take the temps, is it fairly cheap and easy to install. I would love to have the data on my car. Thanks again for posting this.
greg
2x K type thermocouples will do the trick, pretty cheap on Ebay these days. These devices are accurate to about ±1.0°C immersion (a little less accurate as a surface device, but will work). You can hook them up to a temp display or a DVM. Thermocouples generate a voltage dependent on temperature.
is this a good price for a intakefar a xjs v12 $405 i fuond the intake at qickcat
Personally I would keep the stock airfilters and cut the small trumpets off, add larger diameter pipe, PVC works fine, the high pressure pipe is slightly thicker and the one to use IMO.
TWR ran the cold over the radiator to modified (larger diameter) trumpets. Others have cut out behind the headlight and plumbed the cold air in there.
Pod filters are fine if you can enclose them in a box and supply cold air
Sarc
What are you using to take the temps, is it fairly cheap and easy to install. I would love to have the data on my car. Thanks again for posting this.
greg
I have one of these gauges. Ok, it's supposed to be for intercooler in and out temps, but it doesn't know it's being used for something far more cunning. The gauge comes with 2 senders. If you need a pod, they are available from the same folks.
I also have an oil temperature gauge with the sender braised into the sump. Its pretty scary how hot things get inside the hood of an XJS when its sitting idling. 200deg F is not uncommon, and its pretty much impossible to get the oil temp to come back down, even if the car is running on light throttle with very good airflow. I guess my oil cooler isn't very good.
I have one of these gauges. Ok, it's supposed to be for intercooler in and out temps, but it doesn't know it's being used for something far more cunning. The gauge comes with 2 senders. If you need a pod, they are available from the same folks.
I also have an oil temperature gauge with the sender braised into the sump. Its pretty scary how hot things get inside the hood of an XJS when its sitting idling. 200deg F is not uncommon, and its pretty much impossible to get the oil temp to come back down, even if the car is running on light throttle with very good airflow. I guess my oil cooler isn't very good.
Thanks Sarc. I have ordered a temp thingy from ebay, 10 UKP post free from Malaysia! Not as lovely as yours and only a temporary fitment via a wires exiting the bonnet and coming through the window, but enough I hope to give me some decent data.
I am most interested by your oil temp info. I got given an oil temp gauge for my birthday by the Management (after much hinting etc etc), and at the next oil change I am going to fit it using a special sump plug I have obtained with a specially threaded central bit into which I can screw the sender.
I intend to rig it up in a temporary fashion so I can remove it and leave the console unchanged if I want to. Like you, I want some real data on under hood temps and oil temps, not just opinion and educated guesses. I will be extremely surprised if the under hood air temps are not sky high under certain conditions. If they are, the louvres are going in.
My car has never overheated, even before any mods were done, and I now have far better airflow through the radiator stack than normal models as I have improved the airpath very considerably with my slot in the bumper. For this reason I believe that if my under hood temps and oil temps are too high for an easy mind, so are everyone's.
Soon I will know for sure, XJS gods' willing!
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 04-15-2016 at 09:09 AM.
i came across this looking for a cold air intake for a 90 xjs
B&B PERFORMANCE LINE ELECTRIC SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM * Add more HORSEPOWER up to 17 HP guaranteed.
* Powerful fan: 26000 rpm and 1.3 psi boost pressure.
* Street & Emission Legal in all 50 US States.
* Complete kits included (pre-assembled wiring harness, fuse, power relay, and activation switch).
* Easy bolt-on self installation with complete instructions included.
* Work with All Jaguar Vehicles. Attach to factory air-box unit / aftermarket cone air filter with 2.5" - 3.5" intake port diameter. Please specify your Jaguar year & model when ordering
Quite a while back and right after I redesigned the air intake on my '94 AJ6 XJS is when I first heard about this electrical "supercharger". I have a S/C XJR and I fully understand how a supercharger works and I've always thought that "a blower is a blower" and it shouldn't matter how any given device generates the necessary increase in intake air pressure/volume in order to, along with proportionate fuel increase, create a bigger intake charge. And, since at that time, I was all about getting more power, I thought to give this electric supercharger a try. By that time I had already eliminated the stock air box, so adding this device right there was a cinch.
Of course, there are two ways to assess this device. One is on a dyno and the other is, simply, by test driving your car switching the blower ON and OFF. After getting this device installed, I took the car to this dyno place and we did a few tests. Boost wise, this blower struggled to generate one whole PSI... and power wise it increased HP by 3 HP at best. In fact, the biggest surprise was when, with the blower switched OFF, we dyno'd the car with and without the air filter and discovered that removing the air filter generated a higher power increase (about 4 HP) than the HP gained by switching the blower OFF to ON. Of course, needless to say, these power figures were generated at the Jag's peak power-generating rpm's, so 3 HP at WOT is not an impressive figure by any stretch.
And the street performance? Forget it. It's like...is 3 more HP something that you can actually feel, especially by the time that your foot on the floor has your engine already screaming? Absolutely nothing like I felt with the far better power increase from the combo of my re-designed air intake (9" K&N under the left headlight) along with the new Magnaflow, baffle-free silencers and mufflers. Even the new, re-programmed Power Chip in the ECU put a smile on my face that the so-called electric blower wasn't even close to.
But, I still say, they can make an engine/pulley driven supercharger turn fast enough to generate some 10 or 20 PSI of boost, so how come that nobody has yet been able to produce a similar capacity blower via the electric motor principle? Of course that B&B thing is s..t, but I mean, a blower is a blower and a 10,000 to 20,000 watts electric motor with strong enough blades and a highly efficient smart design could possibly yield some 5 to 7 PSI, which would certainly be enough boost for an extra 40 to 60 ponies, not bad. Of course, the voltage would certainly need a boost for this because, in order to generate, say, 15,000 watts (VxI), with only 12 volts we're talking 1,250 amps (ouch!), so, OK, we add a voltage booster to reduce the current. Or, better yet, I've heard somewhere that in the future they're changing car voltage to 75 volts, which would reduce our electric blower demand to "just" 200 amps.
Only thing with this is that, up to 2 or 3 PSI, the car's stock F.I. system may be able to increase, thus match, fuel, but above that it would begin to need fuel over and above what the stock F.I. is capable of, most likely achievable with a re-mapping of the ECU.
All we need is somebody to figure that this device may just create a marketing craze and then search for some really smart electro-mechanical brains and design one. Since it takes a simple, easy mounting right before the airflow meter, you just buy a blower ($450?...) take it home and mount it. Then go out and enjoy it.