You don't have to remove the cage. If you don't, then you don't need to worry about getting all the shims and bearings back in the lower wishbone pivots. If you can have the IRS on something like a Workmate and have the area under the diff on blocking to raise it up then you have space to let the wishbones droop and take out the caliper bolts. That's what the hole in the disk is for.

 

Hi Mac

In my own experience (such as it is) I have found its better to drop the whole Cage with everything intact

Then once you have got it out of the Car (preferably on some sort of skid) so that you can move it around

Undo the Bolts on the Top of the Shroud that secure it to the Top of the Diff (Dana or GKN it makes no difference) as well as the Bolts that secure the Shroud to the Bottom Plate and then once having done so, just lift the Cage Shroud off, then you can get to everything dead easy

 

Can I get to the output shaft seals without removing the shroud/cage?

 

Yes. First undo the nut on the halfshaft, so you can pull the hub carrier off the shaft. Then the carrier and halfshaft can droop and hang straight down.
Next remove the 4 11/16" nuts holding the halfshaft to the brake disk. Remove halfshaft. You can do this step first and leave the wishbone/hub carrier/halfshaft as one lump if you want.
Undo the hard brakeline at the caliper and seperate.
You may have to remove the handbrake calipers from the main caliper here, I can't recall.
Remove the caliper bolts with a socket through the hole in the disk, or using an open end wrench. I think it's 5/8"
Rotate the caliper to the bottomside and drop it out. Removing the pads first may give you some extra wiggle room.
Remove brake disk.
Now you are looking at the output shaft assembly, that can be unbolted and removed from the differential.

The seals in the output shaft can be changed on the bench, as it's a separate assembly.

As they say, assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

 

While you can do it, access will be much easier with the cage off. Otherwise you're reaching through and around a lot. If its anything like mine you'll want to take it off to degrime it anyway.

 

Hi Mac

Re: Your Suspected Fuel Leak

Underneath the Fuel Tank, there is said to be A Rivet That Sticks Up which can apparently wear a hole in the bottom of the Fuel Tank, that may or may not be dependent upon its condition and where from what I can gather nobody knows why its there

Greg and Grant know more about this, so I would have a word with them before you even consider taking the Fuel Tank out

 

"Houston we have touchdown"

The cage is out with no drama, the combo of the QuickJack setup and the ATV/Motorcycle jack worked a treat with plenty of room to spare.

The only issue I had was wasting a bunch of time looking for something mentioned in the ROM:



They already mentioned the eight self-locking nuts so where are these four nuts? I couldn't see any that would impede dropping the cage, and went back and re-read several threads on dropping the cage and nobody ever mentions these mystery nuts... so I stopped looking and let her down gently. Wasted time on a typo, joke is on me.

A cup of coffee and then I'll have to figure out how to get stuck in.

Onward!

EDIT - With cage out I see where the four mystery nuts might go, but there is no corresponding holes in the shroud or where the treaded posts would connect to it [shrug].

 

I don't know if this is the source of my fuel leak, but it doesn't look good:



I can't find that in any of fuel system diagrams I could find. Any ideas?

 

Is that a vent line to the carbon cannister?

 

Are they the nuts on the underside of the mounting rubber blocks?

 

I confess that I've been staring at the cage, and other than spraying some PB Blaster, I'm stalled not know exactly where to start. It seems that two things will be really hard with the shroud on -- 1. Getting enough purchase on the 11/16" bolt/nuts to loosen them. 2. Removing the discs since it looks like they can only come out the bottom of the shroud but the tie plate is sitting on the ATV jack so not sure if I'll have space to pull them out the bottom.

If the shroud is gone, I can get a rattle gun on those bolts and the discs can up out the top.

I can't even figure out how to get the handbrake springs unclipped without damaging the springs (this was part joke as I knew I'd figure it out, just emphasizing my uncertainty on how best to proceed)

IF I remove the shroud, how to do it so I do not screw up the shims and bearings?

 

Isn't this missing one important step? Doesn't the Fulcrum pivot bolt to the shroud?

Isn't that what JagBoi64 is referring to, or is it something else? Sorry if I'm being dense, just want to proceed thoughtfully.

 

Here is the dilemma, I removed the cage with the exhaust intact because from other threads that seemed to be no issue if the shroud is removed; however, It seems removing the shroud introduces other problems. With the shroud in place, I can't roll the cage over because the exhaust prevents it on one side and the pivot arms prevents it going the other way. So I'm stuck, how do I move forward?

Any advise would be much appreciated.

 

First, I'd work the exhaust out. It takes some twisting, but it should come out. Yes, removing the cage is the easiest way to access things. If you have an exploded diagram from the parts book that helps, and if at all possible don't remove the lower pivot in the hub carrier.

When I put mine back together, I found a coating of grease on the components in the inner pivot points held things in place long enough to get the shaft inserted. It also helps to only do one side at a time on each wishbone.

 

@orangeblossom do you happen know how long your copper dummy shafts are? A precise measurement would save some trial and error and be quiet helpful (I couldn't find any measurements in your thread). I'll head to the hardware store and see what I can find with a 1/2" OD. Thanks!

 

​​​@Jagboi64 Progress! I was able to set up a system to be able to safely roll the cage to a nose down position, this allowed enough room for the overaxle pipes and resonators to wiggle free. With that done, I'm going to see if I can proceed with the shroud in place.

 

Hi Mac

I can't remember the Exact Measurements of the Dummy Shafts (but I'll get back if I do) as I may have it Written Down Somewhere

While I know that I used 1/2 Copper Water Pipe, a Piece of Stainless 1/2 Steel Tube or even 1/2 Black Iron Tube would probably be better

Anything Harder than Copper would probably be ok, as Copper distorts too easily, if you need to give a Tap with a Hammer

 

If you are a member of JCNA here in the States, they loan Jaguar special tools, including the dummy shafts. They just charge for shipping, and a deposit until they get the tools back. Well worth the cost of membership. I've borrowed several tools from them.

 

More progress:

Handbrakes out
Calibers out (who/how did they correctly do the safety wire in that tight space?)
Half Shaft nuts out*
Radius Arm out (the clearance of that odd shaved head bolt is crazy, after 30 years of building the Jaguar IRS it's surprising they didn't have some kind of engineering change there)
Discs out (another clearance issue that makes you wonder why the discs aren't a couple of mm smaller)
Made sure that the diff fill plug would come out without too much drama.

*I found that once I had the u-joint cover pushed down the shaft, rotating each nut to 12 o'clock and with two extensions on the socket allowed me to go from the side between the two shocks and use my impact to make fast work of it.

Look at that, it's Beer Thirty.

Next stop, the output shaft seal (not sure what exactly to do there)

 

Do you want the good news or the bad?

I pulled the output shaft assembly and took it to a rear-end speciality shop not far from me that I found does a lot of jaguar diffs because they are so popular in custom cars, and asked what they would charge to replace the seal. Nice guys and they said, "we'll do it right now for you". That was the good news, and I had visions of being able to start putting everything back together.

I'd put the assembly in a large ziplock bag to protect it from dirt, and as soon as he opened the bag, he came and got me. He said, "I've been doing this for a long time, and I can tell from the smell that it's likely you burned up the gears. I'll pull it apart and see what the seal looks like." Well, the seal was actually torn and he said it was likely the gears are toast. He showed me on a recently rebuilt Jaguar diff what the correct lash should be, and my impression was that my diff had a lot more play that it. He said, "now that you know the correct lash, double check yours and see if you've got a problem."

Bad news -- I got a problem. Quite a bit more play than there should be. [sigh] So I need to either get my diff rebuilt or find a swap. Huge setback, and I'm trying to cheer myself up with the realization that if I'd just replaced the seal and put everything back together, I'd be even more bummed out if my first test drive was a noisy affair.

A few questions:

1. I assume that the shroud now has to come off because it doesn't look like the diff can be removed with the shroud in place -- Correct?

2. Since I might have to buy new gears, should I consider a change in ratio? I was thinking the 3.07:1 might be a nice upgrade, from 2.88:1 without the higher revs of 3.54:1 on the highway. But would appreciate the opinion of the experts.

3. Is there a source for gears other than the usual Jaguar parts suppliers?

4. What other rebuild parts would I need?

Thanks,