During the process today of putting the IRS back together (finally had a Rest Day from work) I dropped a spanner and managed to break the plastic diff breather cover in two. I believe they are NLA? anything else usable to fit the salisbury diff?

 

What does it look like. Most f not all differentials have a breather of some type.


Pipe threads in the box. screw in a barb fitting. Attach a longish hose. Smallish filter or one way valve on the end????


Just think what is the function ? How else can I provide that function?


Carl

 

Many aftermarket choices out there, just google "differential breather"

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cu...MobileSwitchNo

 

Quick question guys, how far in are the brass fork fingers meant to go into the handbrake calipers? today when installing them the new forks ony seemed to go half into the alotted holes due to the angle that they bolt onto onto the disc calipers?

 

Sounds pretty normal. Will still do the job.

 

Right. The IRS is back in Josephine. Went in very easily I must say. One thing I did discover is that you have to make sure that you connect the rear pipes and silencers to the s bends before connecting them to the the forward mufflers and the rest of exhaust.

I have read up on various Jag sites and the manual re bleeding the brakes. I started yesterday after work but no luck. I have installed remote rear bleeders and speed nipples all around. I have bled the low pressure side to the actuator.

When I turn the ignition on the actuator starts and pumps up. the brake and abs lights go out , I then depress the pedal (LHS rear speed bleeder open) and after about 5-10 seconds the actuator starts again. I did the no more than 15 seconds thing etc but no brake fluid is coming out of the bleeder. It is normal to have to do this for bit before fluid starts coming out? I have checked the connections for the line to the rear cage and there is no sign of leakage from the those two connections.

 

still no joy with this bleeding caper.

I have tried the run the pump no more than 15 seconds etc way and tried the pressure in the reservoir way.

I can get a dribble out of the rear drivers (rhd) side nipple but nothing out of the other three corners. its like there is no pressure whatsoever in the system.

when i turn the ignition on the brake and ABS light go out after a few seconds, the actuator pumps up and shuts off. if you put your foot on the pedal, its not rock hard nor straight to the floor, but nothings happens until you you press the pedal a few times then the actuator starts again. I have installed speed bleeders on all 4 corners and this is with only one open and the rest closed.

I have bled the low and high pressure sides as per the guide for using pressure in the reservoir. And I have new fluid as the fluid that dribbles out the rear drivers nipple is now new fluid not the old stuff. Been at this all morning 3 or more hours with no luck, starting to think I got something completely wrong here.

 

The procedure in the ROM says to bleed the rear brakes for a MINIMUM of 15 seconds, with the ignition on, not a MAXIMUM, as you state. It's a very peculiar procedure in the ROM forthr rears on ABS cars, and it sounds like you may need to leave the system on for quite awhile before the rears will bleed. And the bleed method for the fronts is entirely different.

 

Dave,

2 things:

- The perceived wisdom over the last few years is that the Jaguar Service manual does not describe the optimal way to bleed the rear brakes. The best accepted way is to do as Teves originally defined it which is to do it with ignition on, accumulator up to pressure and with bleed valve open for no more than 15 seconds. Then a minimum of 1 minute pause to avoid overheating the pump.

- If you're getting the pump kick in so quickly, I think you still might have air on the LP side. Go through the LP bleeding procedure thoroughly ensuring a full flow of fluid from the pipe before reconnecting it. Also check there is not a kink in that LP pipe.

It is quite likely that you have to do the whole LP / HP procedure a few times. Don't condemn the accumulator just yet!

Good luck

Paul

 

thats one great post, love the pics and details you added ing, thanks for sharing

 

righto still having issues.....

Re-bled and LP and HP sides. No air in this area. Went on and used both methods again to bled the brakes, even used a vacuum bottle on the bled nipple to try to help the fluid still no joy.

I cracked the joins progressively from the hard line at the rear to the rear flexi hose to the rear cage and then the three way t piece on the cage that runs to the calipers, all have fluid flowing when cracked. There was some air that bubbled out from the hard line to the rear/flexi hose join and at the t piece, that's all bled out now. But definitely not getting any fluid from the caliper bleeders. (front or rear) Even changed the speed bleeders back to the old bleeders in case they were faulty.

If you engage drive (car up on stands and wheels off) and apply the brakes the drive wheels will slowly slow down but never stop. (don't know if this means anything at all)

The accumulator runs for 30 seconds on turning on. if you put your foot on the brake nothings happens at the accumulator, if you pump the the pedal the accumulator comes on with the 2nd or 3rd pump. (does this indicate something?)

Front brakes whilst not bleeding fluid when the nipples are cracked seem to be applying good pad pressure. Because of this I slapped the wheels on and gingerly drove down the road (rural area nice flat straight of 1.4km outside the house) to see what would happen.

ABS light came on once rolling. (it had been going out on ignition as per normal at start up in the garage.)

Brake pedal is not hard nor completely spongy. seems like fronts are working OK but not perfect.

Interrogated the ABS fault codes and its a fault 31 (left hand front ABS sensor) anyone know what to do about that? replace or clean etc what am I looking for here?

Thanks everyone for your help it is appreciated.

I keep thinking that there's not enough pressure in the system. I have bled my utes brakes before (non abs) and when you bled them the fluid jets out the nipple on cracking it and the pedal will go to the floor as the fluid jets out, but the jag no fluid on cracking the caliper nipples nor the sound of air coming out and at the hard lines it flows but I wouldn't say it was with the pressure I'd expect. Either way the pedal doesn't go to floor, I understand that it possibly wouldn't because of the way the ABS system works but it should have more pressure though I'd have thought

 

you do know that there is a pressure reducer in the line to the back breaks...
I do not know what effect that would have but it is not like having a straight line to them... I would think...

 

Thanks I wasn't aware of that but still should be a decent pressure i'd imagine.