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Jaguar XJS Woodhead Shocks ~ It's a little late now, but wondering
Good Morning Good People.
I'd been squirreling away my pennies for a while, and all for not.
Yesterday I called Welsh Enterprises to order rear Boge shocks for my 1990 convertible. They said they were alllll and mostly OUT. That Boge had stopped making shocks for the XJS. That some time ago Welsh had bought up as many as they could get their hands on and had no more. Just a few pairs of fronts.
Disappointed I started calling others (who's listing didn't break the bank) to get the same or similar info.
I called a very nice guy at Welsh back and he proceeded to go on and on about the comparability and quality of Woodhead Shocks as compared to the Boge shocks. Then, went on to hook me up with a really nice deal for the rears. Maybe foolishly, I trusted him and went ahead.
I'm a little worried about what I might hear, but I am wondering what folks think, have heard or experienced with Woodhead Shocks...? I have been trying to find what I can only to learn that they, for a good long time, a good long time ago, were standard issue for a lot of European machines,,,
Be gentle. Any thoughts?
They will be fine, provided they are not too hard. If when they arrive, you can push them down without dislocating your spine, all will be OK. If they are rock hard, almost impossible to compress by hand, send them back. The main problem with shocks on the XJS is that aftermarket ones can be way to hard.
They will be fine, provided they are not too hard. If when they arrive, you can push them down without dislocating your spine, all will be OK. If they are rock hard, almost impossible to compress by hand, send them back. The main problem with shocks on the XJS is that aftermarket ones can be way to hard.
They will be fine, provided they are not too hard. If when they arrive, you can push them down without dislocating your spine, all will be OK. If they are rock hard, almost impossible to compress by hand, send them back. The main problem with shocks on the XJS is that aftermarket ones can be way to hard.
Hey all.
Shocks came in yesterday. All black, new black springs - I was hoping the shock body would be blue like in some of the photos I've seen, with silver guard,,, but it is what it is.
The shocks can be pushed in and pulled up with moderate pressure but nothing extreme. I'll keep them and I'm happy with the price. Now the install...
Yesterday I went and tried to get thing set up to install and found that with my regular spring compressor the spaces between the coils in the spring upon compression are to narrow to allow the spring compressor "arm" to be removed from between individual coils on assembly... Crazy maker. Any tricks anyone has found for this issue???
What I was thinking I might try is to runn a looooong thick bolt thru the fixed and bottom eye of the shock and attach the "arms" of the compressor to the bolt and give it a try. But still, I think the coil to coil width is too narrow to remove the tool.
I know I could pay to have someone do it but STILL,,, I can't see how they would accomplish compression and release of the spring AND place the spring fixing cap over the stop and be able remove the press-er compression point.
The stop for the spring is a disc style, not the wedge style stop.
I know this sounds like a stupid problem, bit it is a problem, lol. Jus say'n.
JJJ
Have you bought new springs as well as shocks?
If so, count the coils on the new ones and the old ones and report back. I bought some genuine OEM springs, but they were not suitable for my car, having more coils (I hit the same problem you did with the compressor but managed it somehow). Once I fitted them, the ride height was stupidly high, and the ride atrocious, so it is clear later springs are not suitable for earlier Coupes at least. So i used some OEM springs from a breaker from an earlier car same age as mine. What condition are your older springs in?
JJJ
Have you bought new springs as well as shocks?
If so, count the coils on the new ones and the old ones and report back. I bought some genuine OEM springs, but they were not suitable for my car, having more coils (I hit the same problem you did with the compressor but managed it somehow). Once I fitted them, the ride height was stupidly high, and the ride atrocious, so it is clear later springs are not suitable for earlier Coupes at least. So i used some OEM springs from a breaker from an earlier car same age as mine. What condition are your older springs in?
Jeeeeeze Louise... What now.
I hear ya. And will.
I did get new springs - Welsh Enterprises.
All right. I'm picking UP what you're putting down, but still.
And thank you! Your thread with measurements and coil counts of right springs is going to keep me off the ground today counting the coils on my springs...
But, as to the rotor trick. My shocks have the plate style stop for the spring sets... Like the photo. I still can't visualize how I get everything under the rotor that needs to be under the rotor, spring decompressed,,,,,, yeah - sorry man,,,, I'm still missing something.
these are not my shocks but used as an example
Call me, I have lots of good shocks at hand, pickup today and I have a branick to install.
Cool Man. I will as soon as I add this bit of frustration...
So this didn't work out! Lol...
Are these machines MEANT to make you crazy???
Jeeeze
I went up I think two more coils after this attempt and still - NO go.
Due to the potential energy,,, it gets scary to keep going.
I know that bottom cup wasn't made for these kinds of forces.
Measurements look ok tho, according to Vees description.
But, as to the rotor trick. My shocks have the plate style stop for the spring sets... Like the photo. I still can't visualize how I get everything under the rotor that needs to be under the rotor, spring decompressed,,,,,, yeah - sorry man,,,, I'm still missing something.
these are not my shocks but used as an example
The twin disc compression method will not work with the rear shocks, as you need to compress the spring and then insert the keeper; but once the keeper is inserted, the disc cannot be removed. If you can fabricate something that will go across the coils, and not slip off, then the twin threaded rod will do it.
The twin disc compression method will not work with the rear shocks, as you need to compress the spring and then insert the keeper; but once the keeper is inserted, the disc cannot be removed. If you can fabricate something that will go across the coils, and not slip off, then the twin threaded rod will do it.
That's what I was thinking in trying to visualize the set up. Couldn't see it working. I would just trap something and be stuck...
ICS invited me over to use his spring and shock set up. Can't wait to get my hands on it.
Thanks Man...
ps... In your experience, is that the right or wrong spring, ya think?
The twin disc compression method will not work with the rear shocks, as you need to compress the spring and then insert the keeper; but once the keeper is inserted, the disc cannot be removed. If you can fabricate something that will go across the coils, and not slip off, then the twin threaded rod will do it.
Not true! I have successfully used this method. I think the only thing to check when using rotors, is that the center opening diameter has to be large enough to fit that split donut wedge that keeps the shock in the spring. I hadn’t considered that when I did this, but I suppose a rotor for a small car/wheel might have a center “hole” that would be too small.
Basically you are compressing the spring until the force on the split donut is removed. You then remove the split donut....and then I think the shock is replaced....the split donut is put back in place and the spring is restored.
Not true! I have successfully used this method. I think the only thing to check when using rotors, is that the center opening diameter has to be large enough to fit that split donut wedge that keeps the shock in the spring.
Basically you are compressing the spring until the force on the split donut is removed. You then remove the split donut....and then I think the shock is replaced....the split donut is put back in place and the spring is restored.
I guess I don’t understand how they’re supposed to come together. I’d head over to Staten Island ASAP and take ICS’ offer. Don’t forget to bring him something to drink!
Not true! I have successfully used this method. I think the only thing to check when using rotors, is that the center opening diameter has to be large enough to fit that split donut wedge that keeps the shock in the spring. I hadn’t considered that when I did this, but I suppose a rotor for a small car/wheel might have a center “hole” that would be too small.
Basically you are compressing the spring until the force on the split donut is removed. You then remove the split donut....and then I think the shock is replaced....the split donut is put back in place and the spring is restored.
Sorry Vee, I get it now for the OEM fixings. But with the solid slotted-disc type spring to shock fixings as in the photo on JJJ's post above, I think it will not work, unless the spring on its own with no pressed metal piece that the collets fit into can be compressed safely. For some shocks (e.g. my Gaz ones) the solid slotted fixing has to be slipped in from the side on top of the spring and cannot be compressed down over the shock end.
Last edited by Greg in France; 03-17-2021 at 02:57 AM.
Cool Man. I will as soon as I add this bit of frustration...
So this didn't work out! Lol...
Are these machines MEANT to make you crazy???
Jeeeze
I went up I think two more coils after this attempt and still - NO go.
Due to the potential energy,,, it gets scary to keep going.
I know that bottom cup wasn't made for these kinds of forces.
Measurements look ok tho, according to Vees description.
JJJ
The compressor has to be attached much higher up to the top of the spring, only a couple of coils down; as positioned in your photo only half of the spring can be compressed.
JJJ
The compressor has to be attached much higher up to the top of the spring, only a couple of coils down; as positioned in your photo only half of the spring can be compressed.
Yeah, I hear ya... After this attempt I was able to place it up two rings, still, problems in getting enough compression AND fear. I'll admit it. Lots of force in that. Higher than that was the limit of the tool... Height wise.
I will be headed over the see ICS...
What's his drink of choice?
Gasoline?
03-12-2021, 05:20 AM
Jaguar XJS Woodhead Shocks ~ It's a little late now, but wondering
