My last WOF check the dude said the rear brake left hand side, just passed.
After my drive today I thought I would grease the rear end and have a look at why there was a brake problem.

I saw there was oil on the diff side brake pad and it was not brake fluid... Bugger.

Is there an easy way to do this?
Is the easy way cage out?

Thanks

 

I like cage out for everything rear end related. Also like to replace everything since I have it out. So you’re going to do both sides, you’re going to replace the rotors even if you don’t need to, you’re going to replace the brake hose, you’re going to do the parking brake pads, and the mounts of course.

The output shafts themselves… Get the kit including bearings, seals, crush sleeve, and o rings. After removing the calipers and rotors, you can remove the four bolts on each side holding in the output shaft assemblies. These are then broken down further on the bench. The only “tricky” part is crushing the crush sleeve to the correct preload, without crushing it too much. There needs to be a certain amount of preload, measured in the amount of inch pounds required to turn the output shafts. You add preload by crushing the sleeve… and it’s very stiff! For me, once, it started crushing and then crushed too much. On the next car I just reused the precrushed sleeves from the old bearings and it was perfect right away. This makes sense, because the crush sleeve to to account for machining variances of the bearing holder… and its’ not like that changes with time… especially if your new bearings have the same dimensions as the old bearings.

 

Thanks - I had the cage out in 2021 - I did everything EXCEPT the input & output seals and bearings.. I now regret not doing them while the cage was out.
So I need to start preparing myself for cage out..

Once the cage is out and the diff is separated how easy are the seals and bearing to change?
I like the idea of using the same crush sleeves.

 

The output shafts themselves… Get the kit including bearings, seals, crush sleeve, and o rings. After removing the calipers and rotors, you can remove the four bolts on each side holding in the output shaft assemblies. These are then broken down further on the bench

Ok... sorry I have just reread your reply.
This all makes sense... I need to order the kit - and get the cage out.
Should be easier second time, although I don't remember much of the last effort, I am sure it will come back as I do the job.

Does this look like the kit?

 

Yes that’s the kit. You’ll need two!

 

Great thanks is this the correct kit and i might as well get the input seal?

LATE 4HU GKN STYLE OUTPUT SHAFT REBUILD KIT


Need two kits which have the following parts.

 

If you replace the pinion seal, input shaft seal, whatever you call it… the big nut determines the preload… and that sets how deep into the ring gear the pinion gear meshes. Do it wrong and it will whine. I didn’t do it. Seemed like too much voodoo for me. But maybe it’s as simple as putting the nut right back where it was? Let me know how it goes .

 

Question.

While i have the diff out on the bench - is thee anything else I should do?

- Output shaft seal and bearing kit

What about the input side?
Does the diff need a bearing kit?
If you replace the pinion seal, input shaft seal, whatever you call it… the big nut determines the preload… and that sets how deep into the ring gear the pinion gear meshes. Do it wrong and it will whine. I didn’t do it. Seemed like too much voodoo for me. But maybe it’s as simple as putting the nut right back where it was? Let me know how it goes .

Thanks for the comments - I will look in to this, seems like a good idea while its in bits?

appreciate the help - thanks

 

Duke
If the input seal is not leaking, LEAVE WELL ALONE !!