Lightning Bolt light coming up on the dash!
#41
The bloke from Townsville emailed me back and says he has a 90Amp Bosch out of an XJS. Just waiting for price.
I guess the only problem is I dont know what condition it will be in. Do they make the 110Amp (or 90Amp) Bosch new these days or will I always be chasing a 2nd hand unit?
Not sure about the idler arm yet...he hasnt responded.
Fingers crossed...
Didnt think it would be this tricky. Phil told me the 110Amp Bosch and idler pulley was hard to get as everbody wants them. He says Mike Roddy buys alot of his.
I guess the only problem is I dont know what condition it will be in. Do they make the 110Amp (or 90Amp) Bosch new these days or will I always be chasing a 2nd hand unit?
Not sure about the idler arm yet...he hasnt responded.
Fingers crossed...
Didnt think it would be this tricky. Phil told me the 110Amp Bosch and idler pulley was hard to get as everbody wants them. He says Mike Roddy buys alot of his.
#42
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paulyling (01-29-2016)
#43
Hi Greg
Early in the thread we talked about my redundant Air Pump I have that sits above it. Part of the old emmissions system. Apparently alot of guys rip it out and just install an idler pulley.
We just thought seeing how it was already getting taken out for the Alt swap out, it was a good opportunity is all.
Early in the thread we talked about my redundant Air Pump I have that sits above it. Part of the old emmissions system. Apparently alot of guys rip it out and just install an idler pulley.
We just thought seeing how it was already getting taken out for the Alt swap out, it was a good opportunity is all.
#44
Sweet! I found one.
Sourced it at AJG in Esk. Cheers Clarke for the link.
$175 for the 110amp Bosch and $85 for the pulley kit
He reckons it "holds a good charge". We'll see i guess.
Says it was out of and 86 HE so i pray it has the pulley fitted for the 11 series drive belt. He says he "thought" it did as well as the 10mm mounting bolt but he also told me all the HE Jags had 110Amp bosch alternators....mmmm...dont think so
Sourced it at AJG in Esk. Cheers Clarke for the link.
$175 for the 110amp Bosch and $85 for the pulley kit
He reckons it "holds a good charge". We'll see i guess.
Says it was out of and 86 HE so i pray it has the pulley fitted for the 11 series drive belt. He says he "thought" it did as well as the 10mm mounting bolt but he also told me all the HE Jags had 110Amp bosch alternators....mmmm...dont think so
#45
He reckons it "holds a good charge". We'll see i guess.
Says it was out of and 86 HE so i pray it has the pulley fitted for the 11 series drive belt. He says he "thought" it did as well as the 10mm mounting bolt but he also told me all the HE Jags had 110Amp bosch alternators....mmmm...dont think so
Says it was out of and 86 HE so i pray it has the pulley fitted for the 11 series drive belt. He says he "thought" it did as well as the 10mm mounting bolt but he also told me all the HE Jags had 110Amp bosch alternators....mmmm...dont think so
Greg
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paulyling (02-02-2016)
#46
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He used to be local to me but semi retired to Esk a couple of years ago and became a more online business.
I have replaced tranny's and transfer cases through him as well as many other parts. Just about always has what you want on the shelf and I have never had to take anything back to him.
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paulyling (02-04-2016)
#47
Told you he was the "go to guy". I have been using him for many years for my old Jeep and now the XJ6.
He used to be local to me but semi retired to Esk a couple of years ago and became a more online business.
I have replaced tranny's and transfer cases through him as well as many other parts. Just about always has what you want on the shelf and I have never had to take anything back to him.
He used to be local to me but semi retired to Esk a couple of years ago and became a more online business.
I have replaced tranny's and transfer cases through him as well as many other parts. Just about always has what you want on the shelf and I have never had to take anything back to him.
#48
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XJ6 starter motor was $50, still going strong after 2 years.
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paulyling (02-04-2016)
#49
Hi Paul, There is a small 'Black Box' attached to the alternator that gives the same symptoms when it fails. Have you checked that yet before replacing the Alternator. I had the same problem a year or so ago. Didn't find out until AFTER I repalced the Alternator and still had the problem.
Has anybody else here experienced this or could perhaps shed any light on this "black box". I guess at the end of the day if I swap out my 75amp for a 110Amp and still have the fault then I still have an upgraded ALT all the same.
Any more info is greatly appreciated.
All else being equal, James (34by151) and I are doing surgery on the ole girl this Thursday coming. Fingers crossed she works out...
Last edited by paulyling; 02-15-2016 at 07:33 AM.
#50
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paulyling (02-15-2016)
#51
Well...today's the big day. The ole Blue Goose is going to 34by151 for a heart transplant....wish er luck......stay tuned...
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Grant Francis (02-17-2016)
#52
Well after about 6 hours and a few minor setbacks the heart transplant is complete and she's purring like a new kitty.
First of all a big thanks to 34by151 aka James aka The Master. Thank you for taking the time to show me the basics and explain as well as getting totally covered in grease with me.
Thanks also to the wise elders of the Forum, Grant, Clarke, Greg and all the rest.
:icon_imnotwor thy:
Ok here goes...
As a last minute decision we decided to put her front wheels up on ramps before we turned her off....for Justin (Just in Case).
We got started by disconnecting the battery (just the positive terminal) and proceeded to remove the old air pump so we could get to the alternator.
We found she was a bit of a bugger to get out. The odd bolt here and there was rounded so we found the use of James's Metrinch kit invaluable.
You know the spanners with the jagged jaws? Worked a treat. Metrinch-tools - IF THIS CAN'T DO IT, NO TOOL CAN
At this point we were glad we had the front jacked up as working underneath made it 10 time easier to get to the alternator's pivot bolt.
We actually found the easiest way was to remove the pivot bolt from the alt then take off the belt. Once that is done remove the alt bracket with alt attached (2 bolts under the Alt and 2 above)
Everything came out via the top but getting underneath with a second person made life so much easier.
Ok so once we got the alternator free it was just a matter of disconnecting the B+ terminal and the field(instrument?) terminal, and then she came out through the top, The Radiator hose in the way was a PIA but still manageable. I would recommend letting the car cool down for a few hours before you start because that hose was a hot ******* as well as the surrounding metal parts.
Obviously we had removed the belts at this stage but the first thing we picked up is the A/C belt and the alternator belt were actually criss-crossed. The length of the belt must of let me get away with it all this time lol! (It may of got crossed over when we did the rad swapout last year I dunno)
The next thing we noticed as when we removed the old alternator and put it on the bench it seemed to be missing the bloody voltage regulator (if I am not mistaken). Its like it became dislodged and fell out on the road.
It would explain why I had DC volts but the voltage was high and erratic.
Anyway once we were up to installing the new alternator we ran into a few dramas...
Putting the new alt in was a pain because to get the pivot bolt in you have to go between the trans cooler lines making lining up the alt on the bracket near impossible. This is why its easier to remove the alt with bracket attached. You can then get this gone on the bench installing the alt bracket (with alt attached)
Also we had to drill out the adjuster bolt just a tad bigger as it wouldn't quite line up with the new alt.
Next the bloody alternator belt wouldn't fit back on. We also found the new alt is physically bigger and no matter how hard we tried we still couldn't pivot it down enough to fit. The original belt was an 11850 but we made the call to duck down and get a slightly bigger one, the 11875. Before we could do this we had to bring the belt up to take it to the shop. In the way was the bloody power steering pump belt.
This was a right PIA to get off. We messed around for ages to try and loosen that belt. Had to take out the adjuster bolt. Anyway after that we got our belt from the shop, scoffed a quick burger and came back.
Still couldn't fit it on then James realised something. The three belts were originally hanging off the engine pulleys via the first three from the radiator back. The rear pulley was empty. In actual fact we needed to have them from the pulley closest to the engine and come out, leaving the pulley closest to the radiator free. This in turn helped to make all the belts line up straight.
It took a bit to tighten the power steering pump and alternator back. Whilst I was working on the ps pump James installed the idler pulley to replace the old air pump.
All put back together, checked to make sure there was no tools left in the engine bay and had to plug back in the power resistor pack ( it was in the way).
Time to turn the key and standback...the explosion test as I call it offshore....and.....it worked first go naturally.
The Batt light came up briefly until I put the throttle down. James revved her whilst I checked charge on the battery.
It ramped up to 14.2Vdc and stayed there...good...voltage regulator is doing it jobs.
I then went for a spin....may of been a little lead footed due to my excitement of having her back. Watched the barrel gauge the whole way. She pretty much stay dead on about 14V the whole way.
I know in the 70Amp alt she used to drop up and down alot more depending on load....this new alt is rock soild. I turned her around and blasted in the Air Con (bloody hot day it was) and no change to the barrel gauge....no warning lights on the dash and going like a dream!
Was a good day and all though we came across some mis haps It all turned out alright in the end.
As a side note It was funny during the day from time to time we would hear strange puffing noises coming from the engine....strange....the engine was off. Turns out James's Collie dogs he is baby sitting wanted to be close to us whilst working on the car. The closest they could get one of them thought was actually to crawl under the car lol (see pic)
The New 110amp Beast
About to dive in
Air Pump vs Idler
Puffing noise coming from the engine
70Amp Alt missing Regulator?
Ready to Purr...
First of all a big thanks to 34by151 aka James aka The Master. Thank you for taking the time to show me the basics and explain as well as getting totally covered in grease with me.
Thanks also to the wise elders of the Forum, Grant, Clarke, Greg and all the rest.
:icon_imnotwor thy:
Ok here goes...
As a last minute decision we decided to put her front wheels up on ramps before we turned her off....for Justin (Just in Case).
We got started by disconnecting the battery (just the positive terminal) and proceeded to remove the old air pump so we could get to the alternator.
We found she was a bit of a bugger to get out. The odd bolt here and there was rounded so we found the use of James's Metrinch kit invaluable.
You know the spanners with the jagged jaws? Worked a treat. Metrinch-tools - IF THIS CAN'T DO IT, NO TOOL CAN
At this point we were glad we had the front jacked up as working underneath made it 10 time easier to get to the alternator's pivot bolt.
We actually found the easiest way was to remove the pivot bolt from the alt then take off the belt. Once that is done remove the alt bracket with alt attached (2 bolts under the Alt and 2 above)
Everything came out via the top but getting underneath with a second person made life so much easier.
Ok so once we got the alternator free it was just a matter of disconnecting the B+ terminal and the field(instrument?) terminal, and then she came out through the top, The Radiator hose in the way was a PIA but still manageable. I would recommend letting the car cool down for a few hours before you start because that hose was a hot ******* as well as the surrounding metal parts.
Obviously we had removed the belts at this stage but the first thing we picked up is the A/C belt and the alternator belt were actually criss-crossed. The length of the belt must of let me get away with it all this time lol! (It may of got crossed over when we did the rad swapout last year I dunno)
The next thing we noticed as when we removed the old alternator and put it on the bench it seemed to be missing the bloody voltage regulator (if I am not mistaken). Its like it became dislodged and fell out on the road.
It would explain why I had DC volts but the voltage was high and erratic.
Anyway once we were up to installing the new alternator we ran into a few dramas...
Putting the new alt in was a pain because to get the pivot bolt in you have to go between the trans cooler lines making lining up the alt on the bracket near impossible. This is why its easier to remove the alt with bracket attached. You can then get this gone on the bench installing the alt bracket (with alt attached)
Also we had to drill out the adjuster bolt just a tad bigger as it wouldn't quite line up with the new alt.
Next the bloody alternator belt wouldn't fit back on. We also found the new alt is physically bigger and no matter how hard we tried we still couldn't pivot it down enough to fit. The original belt was an 11850 but we made the call to duck down and get a slightly bigger one, the 11875. Before we could do this we had to bring the belt up to take it to the shop. In the way was the bloody power steering pump belt.
This was a right PIA to get off. We messed around for ages to try and loosen that belt. Had to take out the adjuster bolt. Anyway after that we got our belt from the shop, scoffed a quick burger and came back.
Still couldn't fit it on then James realised something. The three belts were originally hanging off the engine pulleys via the first three from the radiator back. The rear pulley was empty. In actual fact we needed to have them from the pulley closest to the engine and come out, leaving the pulley closest to the radiator free. This in turn helped to make all the belts line up straight.
It took a bit to tighten the power steering pump and alternator back. Whilst I was working on the ps pump James installed the idler pulley to replace the old air pump.
All put back together, checked to make sure there was no tools left in the engine bay and had to plug back in the power resistor pack ( it was in the way).
Time to turn the key and standback...the explosion test as I call it offshore....and.....it worked first go naturally.
The Batt light came up briefly until I put the throttle down. James revved her whilst I checked charge on the battery.
It ramped up to 14.2Vdc and stayed there...good...voltage regulator is doing it jobs.
I then went for a spin....may of been a little lead footed due to my excitement of having her back. Watched the barrel gauge the whole way. She pretty much stay dead on about 14V the whole way.
I know in the 70Amp alt she used to drop up and down alot more depending on load....this new alt is rock soild. I turned her around and blasted in the Air Con (bloody hot day it was) and no change to the barrel gauge....no warning lights on the dash and going like a dream!
Was a good day and all though we came across some mis haps It all turned out alright in the end.
As a side note It was funny during the day from time to time we would hear strange puffing noises coming from the engine....strange....the engine was off. Turns out James's Collie dogs he is baby sitting wanted to be close to us whilst working on the car. The closest they could get one of them thought was actually to crawl under the car lol (see pic)
The New 110amp Beast
About to dive in
Air Pump vs Idler
Puffing noise coming from the engine
70Amp Alt missing Regulator?
Ready to Purr...
Last edited by paulyling; 02-18-2016 at 06:56 PM.
#53
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paulyling (02-19-2016)
#54
Cheers Grant. I thought the 11 o'clock was the diode bridge. Do you know what might of gone into the 6 oclock position? It looks like something plugs in with 3 prongs and a little metal retaining clip.
#55
Terrific work Paul. Congratulations. Your experience with the better voltage after the swap was exactly like mine. Great that the pulleys belts etc are now all as they should be too. That has stopped a belt failure at the most inconvenient time!
And you will be surprised how, once the extra bits you do not need are out of the way (eg air pump), the accessibility and general understanding and ease of maintenance of the engine gets better and better. Even quite small changes have a disproportionate effect, I find.
Greg
And you will be surprised how, once the extra bits you do not need are out of the way (eg air pump), the accessibility and general understanding and ease of maintenance of the engine gets better and better. Even quite small changes have a disproportionate effect, I find.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 02-19-2016 at 03:36 AM.
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paulyling (02-19-2016)
#56
The 2 large spades are the HOT from the starter motor solenoid battery post via the metal tube under the exhaust manifold.
The small one is for the IGN wire, and looks like it was being used.
That threaded stud near the regulator LOOKS like is insulated??, and may well be, and was being used for the HOT connection. Rather odd in my opinion, and I certainly never played with the alternator on that car.
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paulyling (02-19-2016)
#58
Join Date: Jan 2014
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paulyling (02-19-2016)
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