little hose above the oil pan and near oil filter
#1
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Hi all,
I have a 90 XJS convertible. I got a lot of oil loss on the interstate the other day. After filling the oil back up, I got it home and found a very short rubber hose that snapped just above the oil pan. It is in a very tight spot and I have been trying a variety of methods to get at it.
Does anyone know of an easy way to fix this without having to take the rack out?
Thanks,
Tony in New Mexico
I have a 90 XJS convertible. I got a lot of oil loss on the interstate the other day. After filling the oil back up, I got it home and found a very short rubber hose that snapped just above the oil pan. It is in a very tight spot and I have been trying a variety of methods to get at it.
Does anyone know of an easy way to fix this without having to take the rack out?
Thanks,
Tony in New Mexico
#2
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That's a tight area to get to. The rack can actually drop several inches, fairly easily, without being removed. Doing that may give you the extra room you need. Unfortunately, it's been several years since I had to do that, but, it seems that you can do it by removing two of the bolts that secure the rack bushings.
If that doesn't let you get to it, you'll have to also remove the downpipes on that side. One of the few tasks that suck worse than removing the downpipes is putting them back on. It seems that at least one of the 4 studs on the manifold is located in a place which makes threading that brass nut onto it, nearly impossible. Patience and persistence are the keys.
If that doesn't let you get to it, you'll have to also remove the downpipes on that side. One of the few tasks that suck worse than removing the downpipes is putting them back on. It seems that at least one of the 4 studs on the manifold is located in a place which makes threading that brass nut onto it, nearly impossible. Patience and persistence are the keys.
#3
#4
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Hi all,
It took me a couple of weeks, few odd shaped tools, a lot of determination and a plan, but I got that little hose done without having to remove the rack or cats. So far no leaks. I just hope it holds.
Thanks for the input and I look forward to future chats.
Tony in New Mexico, USA
It took me a couple of weeks, few odd shaped tools, a lot of determination and a plan, but I got that little hose done without having to remove the rack or cats. So far no leaks. I just hope it holds.
Thanks for the input and I look forward to future chats.
Tony in New Mexico, USA
#5
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Caught up with this today, slack I know.
I did ours and that is one task where the RHD makes those 2 hose simple to do in the big scheme.
The downside is our starter motors are a PITA to get at, and worse to get out.
Tony, you mention "that hose", as in singular???. There are 2 small hoses in there, one on each end of that metal pipe, UNLESS the USA market cars are different to ours??.
I did ours and that is one task where the RHD makes those 2 hose simple to do in the big scheme.
The downside is our starter motors are a PITA to get at, and worse to get out.
Tony, you mention "that hose", as in singular???. There are 2 small hoses in there, one on each end of that metal pipe, UNLESS the USA market cars are different to ours??.
#6
#7
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You would have probably saved yourself a headache if you had replaced them both while you were there. Knowing Jaguar rubber the way I do, the heat in that area has made the other hose just as brittle as the one you replaced, and it too will be leaking in no time.
As hard as these cars are to work on, it pays to get into the habit of looking at everything in the area where you're working, even if it is an unrelated part. If it looks like it might be nearing the end of it's useful life, go ahead and take care of the problem while you there, rather than having to go back a second time. This is especially true of any British rubber pieces. They don't stand up well to the heat, and have most likely been on the car since it was built.
In fact, as a matter of practice, you should go ahead and buy a complete set of coolant hoses, and replace them all as soon as possible. I believe there are something like 15 or 16 of them on the V12, and you can find vendors who will sell you the complete set, so you don't have to spend hours looking up and ordering individual part numbers.
As hard as these cars are to work on, it pays to get into the habit of looking at everything in the area where you're working, even if it is an unrelated part. If it looks like it might be nearing the end of it's useful life, go ahead and take care of the problem while you there, rather than having to go back a second time. This is especially true of any British rubber pieces. They don't stand up well to the heat, and have most likely been on the car since it was built.
In fact, as a matter of practice, you should go ahead and buy a complete set of coolant hoses, and replace them all as soon as possible. I believe there are something like 15 or 16 of them on the V12, and you can find vendors who will sell you the complete set, so you don't have to spend hours looking up and ordering individual part numbers.
Last edited by JagZilla; 12-10-2013 at 08:04 AM.
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#8
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assuming its a v12
imo you chould take the whole filter head off as there are o rings that will need the same attention due to age I had the same thing on mine and while the rack is lowered (in your case) it would be short sighted not to do them.
all still available from jcp
imo you chould take the whole filter head off as there are o rings that will need the same attention due to age I had the same thing on mine and while the rack is lowered (in your case) it would be short sighted not to do them.
all still available from jcp
Last edited by rgp; 12-09-2013 at 11:08 AM.
#9
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Yes indeed. *I recently replaced the rack and while doing so replaced both
those hoses. *They were easy when there wasn't a rack in the way.
Unfortunately, I put the one back in on the wrong side of the pipe leading
to the oil filter mount. *Thus rubbed against the steering column and
stressed the hose.
So hopefully, neither will be an issue for a long time.
Tony
those hoses. *They were easy when there wasn't a rack in the way.
Unfortunately, I put the one back in on the wrong side of the pipe leading
to the oil filter mount. *Thus rubbed against the steering column and
stressed the hose.
So hopefully, neither will be an issue for a long time.
Tony
#10
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Well this is the pits, but I was out and about yesterday and noticed that my oil leak (from the same area) seems to be back. I made sure there was oil and got it home. Put it in the garage and will ask Santa (aka Father Christmas) for a couple of ramps to drive it up on (actually, he already dropped them off). Likely won't get to it until after Christmas day.
Assuming it is the same hose again, I was wondering if there is any special type of hose to use? I used a narrow fuel line that was a tight fit over the spouts. Should I have used something else?
Tony in NM
Assuming it is the same hose again, I was wondering if there is any special type of hose to use? I used a narrow fuel line that was a tight fit over the spouts. Should I have used something else?
Tony in NM
#11
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OH.
Fuel hose would be OK to get you home from, say, Vegas. It will not last long, sadly, as it is simply not designed for oil.
I use a Pirtek 6mm Red oil hose, rated at 1500psi (a tad overkill, but it is OIL hose), with EFI005 clamps. Pirtek is a hydraulic mob down here, along with Enzed, and are within walking distance of my work.
My HE has had them there since 2000, and still soft are pliable, last time I changed an oil filter. NO oils leaks on that beast.
Fuel hose would be OK to get you home from, say, Vegas. It will not last long, sadly, as it is simply not designed for oil.
I use a Pirtek 6mm Red oil hose, rated at 1500psi (a tad overkill, but it is OIL hose), with EFI005 clamps. Pirtek is a hydraulic mob down here, along with Enzed, and are within walking distance of my work.
My HE has had them there since 2000, and still soft are pliable, last time I changed an oil filter. NO oils leaks on that beast.
#12
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This may be a silly question, but if I use the hose you recommend, do I still need to use the metal tube in between?
I found the company you mentioned located in Phoenix, AZ or Denver Co. Their specs say the hose can stand up to 300 plus degrees. I assume the metal pipe was to handle the heat between the hose lengths.
Thanks,
Tony in NM
I found the company you mentioned located in Phoenix, AZ or Denver Co. Their specs say the hose can stand up to 300 plus degrees. I assume the metal pipe was to handle the heat between the hose lengths.
Thanks,
Tony in NM
#13
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Tony,
I see NO reason for that metal tube, never have worked out why it was done that way.
My warped sense of humour, loooooooong time ago, decided it had 2 hoses, with 4 joints, to allow for more oil leaks. Made perfect sense at the time, and still does today.
Mind you, I have NOT deleted that pipe on any of my V12's, just replaced the hoses with that Pirtek stuff, and never ventured to that area again.
Maybe the "British non-metallic" component, the hose, back in the '70's was of poorer quality to what is available today, so 2 short straight sections, with NO bends, was seen as as the lesser of 2 evils.
I see NO reason for that metal tube, never have worked out why it was done that way.
My warped sense of humour, loooooooong time ago, decided it had 2 hoses, with 4 joints, to allow for more oil leaks. Made perfect sense at the time, and still does today.
Mind you, I have NOT deleted that pipe on any of my V12's, just replaced the hoses with that Pirtek stuff, and never ventured to that area again.
Maybe the "British non-metallic" component, the hose, back in the '70's was of poorer quality to what is available today, so 2 short straight sections, with NO bends, was seen as as the lesser of 2 evils.
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