Long Term XJS Owner
#1
06-21-2012, 12:42 PM
Long Term XJS Owner
Hello!
New to the site, although I've owned my XJS for over a decade now.
It is an '88 H&E convertible. My father was one of the engineers who developed the H&E convertible, so I've been around these cars since I was a kid. Specifically, he designed the structural reinforcements that were necessary, which resulted in a rare instance of the convertible retaining the stiffness of the original coupe (and the torsional rigidity is actually 103% of the coupe). He's got lots of good anecdotes about working with Jaguar and their test drivers, why the H&E top sits flat, reasons for the fuel tank modification, etc.
A couple of questions:
1. The other day my inertia switch actuated while coming to a quick stop in traffic. Not a *head snapping* stop, just rather quick. Rather annoying to have the switch go off... wondering if any others out there have had similar troubles and if this is a sign of the switch start to go... (this is also what led me to the forum, as I had to google from my phone where exactly the switch was located to reset it!).
2. The driver's seat lower back support will not hold air. The bladder fills and stiffens, but rather quickly deflates (passenger side does not have this issue). Thoughts on repairing this issue?
3. Rims on the car are somewhat unusual. Thinking of having them replaced, but also consider refurbishment. The chrome is pitting, as well as the underlaying alloy in certain areas. Would a decent chrome shop be able to refurbish?
Cheers,
Will
New to the site, although I've owned my XJS for over a decade now.
It is an '88 H&E convertible. My father was one of the engineers who developed the H&E convertible, so I've been around these cars since I was a kid. Specifically, he designed the structural reinforcements that were necessary, which resulted in a rare instance of the convertible retaining the stiffness of the original coupe (and the torsional rigidity is actually 103% of the coupe). He's got lots of good anecdotes about working with Jaguar and their test drivers, why the H&E top sits flat, reasons for the fuel tank modification, etc.
A couple of questions:
1. The other day my inertia switch actuated while coming to a quick stop in traffic. Not a *head snapping* stop, just rather quick. Rather annoying to have the switch go off... wondering if any others out there have had similar troubles and if this is a sign of the switch start to go... (this is also what led me to the forum, as I had to google from my phone where exactly the switch was located to reset it!).
2. The driver's seat lower back support will not hold air. The bladder fills and stiffens, but rather quickly deflates (passenger side does not have this issue). Thoughts on repairing this issue?
3. Rims on the car are somewhat unusual. Thinking of having them replaced, but also consider refurbishment. The chrome is pitting, as well as the underlaying alloy in certain areas. Would a decent chrome shop be able to refurbish?
Cheers,
Will
#2
06-21-2012, 12:45 PM
Veteran Member
Hello!
New to the site, although I've owned my XJS for over a decade now.
It is an '88 H&E convertible. My father was one of the engineers who developed the H&E convertible, so I've been around these cars since I was a kid. Specifically, he designed the structural reinforcements that were necessary, which resulted in a rare instance of the convertible retaining the stiffness of the original coupe (and the torsional rigidity is actually 103% of the coupe). He's got lots of good anecdotes about working with Jaguar and their test drivers, why the H&E top sits flat, reasons for the fuel tank modification, etc.
A couple of questions:
1. The other day my inertia switch actuated while coming to a quick stop in traffic. Not a *head snapping* stop, just rather quick. Rather annoying to have the switch go off... wondering if any others out there have had similar troubles and if this is a sign of the switch start to go... (this is also what led me to the forum, as I had to google from my phone where exactly the switch was located to reset it!).
2. The driver's seat lower back support will not hold air. The bladder fills and stiffens, but rather quickly deflates (passenger side does not have this issue). Thoughts on repairing this issue?
3. Rims on the car are somewhat unusual. Thinking of having them replaced, but also consider refurbishment. The chrome is pitting, as well as the underlaying alloy in certain areas. Would a decent chrome shop be able to refurbish?
Cheers,
Will
New to the site, although I've owned my XJS for over a decade now.
It is an '88 H&E convertible. My father was one of the engineers who developed the H&E convertible, so I've been around these cars since I was a kid. Specifically, he designed the structural reinforcements that were necessary, which resulted in a rare instance of the convertible retaining the stiffness of the original coupe (and the torsional rigidity is actually 103% of the coupe). He's got lots of good anecdotes about working with Jaguar and their test drivers, why the H&E top sits flat, reasons for the fuel tank modification, etc.
A couple of questions:
1. The other day my inertia switch actuated while coming to a quick stop in traffic. Not a *head snapping* stop, just rather quick. Rather annoying to have the switch go off... wondering if any others out there have had similar troubles and if this is a sign of the switch start to go... (this is also what led me to the forum, as I had to google from my phone where exactly the switch was located to reset it!).
2. The driver's seat lower back support will not hold air. The bladder fills and stiffens, but rather quickly deflates (passenger side does not have this issue). Thoughts on repairing this issue?
3. Rims on the car are somewhat unusual. Thinking of having them replaced, but also consider refurbishment. The chrome is pitting, as well as the underlaying alloy in certain areas. Would a decent chrome shop be able to refurbish?
Cheers,
Will
#4
06-21-2012, 10:08 PM
Veteran Member
The air bladders are usually not repairable. They're similar to a tire inner tube and after awhile dry-rot. You might be able to get a suitable replacement from an upholstery shop if you can't find a part number or they aren't available from a specialty parts supplier.
The rims may be salvageable depending how bad the pitting is and how picky you are about how they look. Re-chroming can be expensive, but yours may not be chrome, they may just be polished. Check around your area, you may find a shop that can refurbish them. Small shops that specialize in wheel repairs are starting to pop up because of the popularity of oversized rims with rubberband tires. They get bent and damaged quite easily!
The rims may be salvageable depending how bad the pitting is and how picky you are about how they look. Re-chroming can be expensive, but yours may not be chrome, they may just be polished. Check around your area, you may find a shop that can refurbish them. Small shops that specialize in wheel repairs are starting to pop up because of the popularity of oversized rims with rubberband tires. They get bent and damaged quite easily!
#5
06-22-2012, 05:58 AM
Veteran Member
I would have thought that those rubber bladders could be repaired with a bike tube patch. Certainly might be worth a try as its not too difficult to get to.
That being said, have you gone in there? It might just be a cracked tube, in which case, it could be repaired rather easily? Could be a plastic valve... cold be a couple things.
Take the seat backing off, blow the thing up and see if you can spot the leak, then come back here. Someone will know how to fix it!
That being said, have you gone in there? It might just be a cracked tube, in which case, it could be repaired rather easily? Could be a plastic valve... cold be a couple things.
Take the seat backing off, blow the thing up and see if you can spot the leak, then come back here. Someone will know how to fix it!
#6
06-22-2012, 06:36 AM
I would have thought that those rubber bladders could be repaired with a bike tube patch. Certainly might be worth a try as its not too difficult to get to.
That being said, have you gone in there? It might just be a cracked tube, in which case, it could be repaired rather easily? Could be a plastic valve... cold be a couple things.
Take the seat backing off, blow the thing up and see if you can spot the leak, then come back here. Someone will know how to fix it!
That being said, have you gone in there? It might just be a cracked tube, in which case, it could be repaired rather easily? Could be a plastic valve... cold be a couple things.
Take the seat backing off, blow the thing up and see if you can spot the leak, then come back here. Someone will know how to fix it!
bike tube patches are almost entirely held in place by the tire wall, not the glue itself.
#7
06-22-2012, 10:11 AM
Veteran Member
It might be held up by the tire wall (which I don't necessarily believe), but it must remain airtight under pressures exceeding 150psi. The bladder wouldn't get anywhere close to that.
I would still suggest that buying a vulcanizing glue with a patch would be your cheapest and easiest attempt. At worst, you've wasted $10 and an hour. At best, you've solved your problem.
Now that would also depend where this problem is.
Try "Rema". They sell kits on Amazon for just over $5. One of the reviewers even did a review of the patch, and although it apparently did not fuse with the rubber, I would think that it would still work.
I would still suggest that buying a vulcanizing glue with a patch would be your cheapest and easiest attempt. At worst, you've wasted $10 and an hour. At best, you've solved your problem.
Now that would also depend where this problem is.
Try "Rema". They sell kits on Amazon for just over $5. One of the reviewers even did a review of the patch, and although it apparently did not fuse with the rubber, I would think that it would still work.
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#8
06-22-2012, 11:11 AM
#11
06-23-2012, 09:50 AM
I'll start a new thread on Dad's work with H&E...
Cheers,
- HJ
#12
06-23-2012, 10:52 AM
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