1B is 200. I think what makes it look like 2.00 is just a mark on the paper.

 

My 2 cents:
200 psi per cylinder on an engine that has been sitting for a while is not too bad.
I would suggest putting a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil or even WD40 into all of the cylinders and let it soak for a couple of days.
Focus more on on 5B and 6B
Then turn the engine slowly by hand clockwise. It is pretty tight trying to get to the crankshaft bolt but is doable (since you are going really deep into this project, pull the radiator if need be)
Do not turn the engine counter clockwise. you will damage the timing chain tensioners if you do.
The Marvel Mystery Oil or WD 40 will eventually cause the rings on 5B and 6B to free up.

 

I'm hoping to get do a leak-down test in the next day or two. That will help tell me if the issue is the rings, the valves, or the head gasket. Or the head itself. Or the block.

 

For sure. When you added oil to Cylinders 5B and 6B the PSI numbers increased. That pretty much eliminates the valves as the issue but it's a Jag. You never know.

 

I filled up 5A and 5B with MMO Monday night. I've been going out and turning the crankshaft clockwise 180* every day. Before I do that I suck out the MMO with my brake bleeder (so it doesn't spill out the spark plug hole) then refilling the cylinder after I turn the crankshaft. There's a ton of carbon coming out with the MMO so it's doing something.
My plan is to re-check the compression on Saturday. That will be about 5 days of a nice MMO bath.

 

I couldn't wait any longer. I sucked the MMO out of 5B and 6B and re-checked the compression.

5B went from 130/150 dry/wet to a solid 200. I was very happy.
6B went from 100/120 dry/wet to 150. I was less happy.

I put 6B at TDC on its compression stroke and hooked up my leak-down tester. It was easy to see where the air was coming from.

I decided to fill up the 6B intake port with MMO and let it soak. Then I'll turn the engine until the intake valve is fully open and try to clean the carbon off the top of the intake valve. We'll see what that gets me...

 

I have all 12 cylinders at 200-205psi! Thank you @sanchez for the MMO suggestion. I have heard the stories and always assumed they were old wive's tales but now I am a believer. I let 6B sit full of MMO all night. This morning I ran a brass rifle brush down the intake port and cleaned the valve and the seat. That did the trick!

I started replacing fuel lines in the trunk and finished stripping the front of the engine. I think I am going with a GM CS-130 alternator - I already have one on my shelf. That's the great thing about owning British cars - you have plenty of spare parts.

While I have most of the engine apart, I am looking at how I can replace the oil cooler hoses with stainless steel braided AN hoses. I used those on my MGB project last year and have been happy with them. I need to figure out what size the threads are on the existing hoses. A google search didn't give me a good answer but I have some options.

I'm also deep in the AC system. I'm looking at the A6-to-Sanden kits and have already flushed the evaporator core. I can make my own hoses so I'm not worried about that.

I'm on the fence about replacing the water pump. It's original, but it's never going to be easier to go to it than it is now. The condenser and radiator are out and it's right there, but I'm also wondering if the new water pumps are lower quality than the originals.

Front of engine

Parts that came off and are probably not going back on

Working on fuel lines in the trunk

 

You’ll should replace everything in the cooling system. The water pump, the thermostats, all the hoses. Probably the water rails on the side of the engine, they rust from the inside out. The heater valve. You can recore the radiator, or just replace it. The cooling system is the most important system on the car. It’s halfway apart already, do it all, do it right, do it once. Then do it again in 10-15 years. Maybe fit electric fans in place of the mechanical one for more low speed cooling.

 

It was a busy weekend in the garage. I put in the new sparkplugs & wires and distributor rotor & cap. I did the silicone in the bottom of the rotor trick - we'll see if that helps.

I also cleaned up and painted the cam covers and intake manifolds. I used to be able to find a 'Cast Aluminum' spray paint that would have looked perfect on the manifolds, but I can't find it anymore. I tried regular 'Aluminum' but it looked too much like cheap shiny hardware store silver paint. I ended up using 'Dark Machinery Grey'. I'm not sure how I feel about it. I've used it before on other projects and it looked OK but this doesn't feel very Jaguar-y to me.

I also modified the air pump bracket to hold a CS-130 alternator. I was able to line up the pulley pretty well but still need to pull it all off one more time so I can sand-blast and powder-coat it.

I'm waiting for a shipment of bolts/nuts/washer from McMaster Carr then I'll start putting the top of the engine back together. I have some other smaller projects to work on but goal is to get the new fuel injectors in and make sure it runs before finishing up all the other sub-systems.

Cam Covers

RH side intake manifold

Plugs & wires

Alternator and bracket

 

Whats this about a sanden AC KIT? Not to hijack your thread but I'm about to do the AC system as my compressor currently sits on my coffee table leaking oil everywhere.

The harrison ones weigh 400lb and suck. Will the other type fit a pre-facelift?

 

If you're looking for the easiest route, then you want something like this. The compressor has the same ports as the A6 and will make the conversion much easier. Just be aware that's a "Sanden style" compressor, not a genuine Sanden. After having a Sanden-style die on me and take out a newly rebuilt AC system, I always spend the extra $100 on a genuine Sanden.

I'll be using that mount with a compressor with o-ring fittings because it's my personal opinion those seal better than the factory arrangement.

Are you planning on staying with R-12 or will you switch to R-134? What are you planning on doing for hoses?

 

I've been keeping myself busy while I wait for the Lithuanian post office to deliver my half-moon seals. Today I sand-blasted and powder coated the injector hold downs and the rings that go around the injector, as well as some miscellaneous brackets and engine components.

I finished replacing fuel hoses in the trunk. I'll finish up the engine compartment when I get the top of the engine back together, and I'll do the ones over the back axle when I drop it this winter to rebuild it. Unless something else goes wrong and I have to drop it before then.

I also replaced the brake pressure accumulator, drained the fluid reservoir, and flushed half a gallon of brake fluid through the rear calipers. The picture is about half-way through the process but that was the most vile brake fluid I have ever seen.

Finally, I dropped the steering rack so I can replace the power steering hoses. I'm going to replace the bushings while I'm here. I also dropped the B-bank down-pipe and cats. I'm going to drop the A-bank tomorrow but I'm curious to see what condition they are in. I'm guessing the A-bank is going to be in poor shape.


Injector hold-downs - BEFORE



Injector hold-downs - AFTER



Old fuel injectors (I have a set of rebuilt ones I am installing and injector rings - BEFORE



Injector rings - BEFORE



Injector rings - AFTER



It's ironic the gross brake fluid is in a salad dressing bottle - because it has a similar look and consistency

 

I must say, that once you get stuck in, you really are in. Quite impressive. I'll continue to follow your progress with interest.

I've never seen brake fluid that bad, I guess because I've never let it get there or wouldn't buy a car that had.

When you replace the steering rack bushing, use either polyurethane or the JagSport type. Great upgrade that really improves the car.

 

I was able to pull the A bank manifold and converters off today and it's clear that there was some type of thermal event in the converters. You could see some of the substrate had melted.
The plan is either buy a set of catless down-pipes or make my own. From there, I'll see what room I have to fit a modern 3-way catalyst.

I'll need to braze the steering rack heat shields because both of them have cracks, but that's easy enough.

The next big thing is reassembling the top of the engine and making sure it runs - but still waiting on the half-moon plugs. I'm starting to run out of things to do while I wait...

 

Nice work, enjoying following your progress.
How is the wiring in the engine bay?

 

I'm going to replace most of it while I'm here. The injector harness seems like table stakes at this stage in the game and I'll look at the others while I'm there. I have a bunch of silicone wire, heat shrink tubing, and braided wire covers so I might as well have fun. I am waiting until I put the valve covers on so I don't drop anything where it shouldn't go.

 

Not much to report on as I've still been waiting for my aluminum half moon seals to show up from Lithuania. I bought a set of the Uro rubber seals "just in case" but Uro parts have let me down so many times on other cars that I'm not feeling a lot of temptation to use them.

Yesterday I was able to press out the old steering rack bushings and install the new polyurethane ones. I have some new heat sleeve coming this week for the power-steering hoses so I can get that finished up and put another check mark on my to-do list.

 

Thorsen I am in the Chicago area myself and have been working on many of the same projects you have going. I purchased an 89 brg coupe last April and have been reworking many of the same bits tour dealing with.
Looks like you are well on your way. I keep getting caught up with more mad more work on mine but that’s to be expected I suppose with these cars.

 

I'm keeping myself busy with projects while I continue to wait for the Lithuanian mail to deliver for me.

I started looking at alternatives to spending $500 on a set of cat-less down pipes and decided to make my own. I took the existing down pipes and cut them just before the cat. Voila, cat-less down pipes!, although it's going to take more work to turn that into something I can use. I welded in a short pipe and when the exhaust flanges get in, I will trim the pipe and weld the flange in. Then I'll take it to the local ceramic coater and see if he can ceramic coat it for me. I had the headers for my 1970 MGB v6 project ceramic coated last summer and I'm very happy with how they turned out. After that, it's a simple matter of exhaust plumbing to hook up the rest of the exhaust.

I also ordered a CS-130D alternator to use instead of the CS-130 I had on the shelf. The 130D is 145 amps instead of the 105 or 120 of the CS-130. I do need to look at the current alternator wiring and decide if I want to replace/upgrade. Does the factory alternator feed go to the firewall or the starter?

UPS is going to be bringing me a Sanden compressor this week. I'm going to see if mounting it to where the air pump was is a viable location. If that works it should help keep the V of the engine cooler and save me the cost of an A6-to-Sanden bracket.


V12 catty down pipe and cat-less down pipe

V12 down pipes with short extensions welded on

MGB v6 header before ceramic coating

MGB v6 header after ceramic coating

 

Love that black ceramic coating!

Paul