Lug Wrench and Dayton Wire Wheels
#1
Lug Wrench and Dayton Wire Wheels
Today I had a need to remove the front left wheel on my XJS and found that the stock lug wrench will not reach the lugs on my Dayton wire wheels.
The wheels came with the Jag, a dealer installed non-factory option, but it seems crazy that a normal lug wrench does not fit. I'm glad I discovered this now rather than on the side of a highway!
Anyhow, my question is .... has anyone in the same position identified a lug wrench that has thin enough walls to get to the lugs without banging up against the spokes? If so, can you point me in the right direction to purchase such a lug wrench in the US.
Thanks
The wheels came with the Jag, a dealer installed non-factory option, but it seems crazy that a normal lug wrench does not fit. I'm glad I discovered this now rather than on the side of a highway!
Anyhow, my question is .... has anyone in the same position identified a lug wrench that has thin enough walls to get to the lugs without banging up against the spokes? If so, can you point me in the right direction to purchase such a lug wrench in the US.
Thanks
#2
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
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Find a socket that will fit your lug nuts, a deep one if you need to, a 6 inch extension and a break-over bar at least 18 inches long. Harbor Freight is a good place to look, or any quality hardware store.
The extension keeps the handle well away from fender flares and other body work. The handle gives good leverage to loosen even the most stubborn nuts. Sockets have thinner walls than standard lug wrenches and are made with higher quality materials & processes. This can also store straight or bent, taking up less space perhaps.
This has been my Lug Wrench of choice since I left home. If the socket fits well there is minimal damage/scratching to the chrome nuts.
(';')
The extension keeps the handle well away from fender flares and other body work. The handle gives good leverage to loosen even the most stubborn nuts. Sockets have thinner walls than standard lug wrenches and are made with higher quality materials & processes. This can also store straight or bent, taking up less space perhaps.
This has been my Lug Wrench of choice since I left home. If the socket fits well there is minimal damage/scratching to the chrome nuts.
(';')
The following 4 users liked this post by LnrB:
Captain Bob 369 (08-28-2022),
chronicnetpro (09-11-2014),
macudc (09-11-2014),
orangeblossom (09-10-2014)
#3
Find a socket that will fit your lug nuts, a deep one if you need to, a 6 inch extension and a break-over bar at least 18 inches long. Harbor Freight is a good place to look, or any quality hardware store.
The extension keeps the handle well away from fender flares and other body work. The handle gives good leverage to loosen even the most stubborn nuts. Sockets have thinner walls than standard lug wrenches and are made with higher quality materials & processes. This can also store straight or bent, taking up less space perhaps.
This has been my Lug Wrench of choice since I left home. If the socket fits well there is minimal damage/scratching to the chrome nuts.
(';')
The extension keeps the handle well away from fender flares and other body work. The handle gives good leverage to loosen even the most stubborn nuts. Sockets have thinner walls than standard lug wrenches and are made with higher quality materials & processes. This can also store straight or bent, taking up less space perhaps.
This has been my Lug Wrench of choice since I left home. If the socket fits well there is minimal damage/scratching to the chrome nuts.
(';')
The following users liked this post:
LnrB (09-10-2014)
#4
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orangeblossom (09-11-2014)
#5
Thank you to LnrB for this great idea...
I was in the same fix, didn't have a lug wrench that would fit. Here's my 2 cents worth on getting it done:
I found that the "cheapie" spark plug sockets at Oreilly's (13/16 or 21mm) would fit. But, they're a 3/8 inch drive, which is a little wimpy and can bend (ask me how I know.
So, I set off to get something a little "beefier". Here's what I found locally:
I found that the "cheapie" spark plug sockets at Oreilly's (13/16 or 21mm) would fit. But, they're a 3/8 inch drive, which is a little wimpy and can bend (ask me how I know.
So, I set off to get something a little "beefier". Here's what I found locally:
The following 3 users liked this post by chronicnetpro:
#6
Have you thought of contacting Dayton wheels................
Mine has MWS wheels and nuts, came with a wheel brace/lug wrench.
http://shop.mwsint.com/product_details.asp?id=710
Mine has MWS wheels and nuts, came with a wheel brace/lug wrench.
http://shop.mwsint.com/product_details.asp?id=710
Last edited by malc4d; 09-11-2014 at 02:21 AM.
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orangeblossom (09-11-2014)
#7
another duplicate post if it inspires any confidence in you....
When I got my XJS there were 3 lug wrenches in the tool bag, none of which were even the right size.
I just keep a breaker bar and socket in the back, its like a 17mm or 18 or something...
Have removed them dozens of times and the lugs look brand new. If they don't come off often, service the fake knock-offs, they need to spin to get to all the lugs and if they aren't maintained they can come off, ask me how I know.
When I got my XJS there were 3 lug wrenches in the tool bag, none of which were even the right size.
I just keep a breaker bar and socket in the back, its like a 17mm or 18 or something...
Have removed them dozens of times and the lugs look brand new. If they don't come off often, service the fake knock-offs, they need to spin to get to all the lugs and if they aren't maintained they can come off, ask me how I know.
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (09-11-2014)
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#8
Have you thought of contacting Dayton wheels................
Mine has MWS wheels and nuts, came with a wheel brace/lug wrench.
Motor Wheel Service - Motor Wheel Service
Mine has MWS wheels and nuts, came with a wheel brace/lug wrench.
Motor Wheel Service - Motor Wheel Service
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orangeblossom (09-11-2014)
#9
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Warning about spark plug sockets on Lug Nuts
You might not want to use spark plug sockets on your lug nuts on a regular basis, especially not the Cheapies.
Spark plug sockets are quite shallow as sockets go, only needing to grab a relatively thin 6-point "bolt.". The photo below shows what happened to my lugs when the previous owner used a spark plug socket in an attempt to remove the nuts. Notice the scars on the corners about 1/4 inch from the top or the star.
You *Really* need a full depth 6 point regular 13/16 inch or 21mm socket for chrome lug nuts to prevent this happening.
(';')
Spark plug sockets are quite shallow as sockets go, only needing to grab a relatively thin 6-point "bolt.". The photo below shows what happened to my lugs when the previous owner used a spark plug socket in an attempt to remove the nuts. Notice the scars on the corners about 1/4 inch from the top or the star.
You *Really* need a full depth 6 point regular 13/16 inch or 21mm socket for chrome lug nuts to prevent this happening.
(';')
Last edited by LnrB; 09-11-2014 at 06:12 PM.
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orangeblossom (09-11-2014)
#10
Really....From a company that prides its self on being around since 1916 I must say that it seems very British on how it treats customers. MWS seems very American on its web site and customer service.
But l believe these days the product for both companies comes from India or there abouts. Try emailing MWS ............
But l believe these days the product for both companies comes from India or there abouts. Try emailing MWS ............
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (09-11-2014)
#11
You might not want to use spark plug sockets on your lug nuts on a regular basis, especially not the Cheapies.
Spark plug sockets are quite shallow as sockets go, only needing to grab a relatively thin 6-point "bolt.". The photo below shows what happened to my lugs when the previous owner used a spark plug socket in an attempt to remove the nuts. Notice the scars on the corners about 1/4 inch from the top or the star.
You *Really* need a full depth 6 point regular 13/16 inch or 21mm socket for chrome lug nuts to prevent this happening.
(';')
Spark plug sockets are quite shallow as sockets go, only needing to grab a relatively thin 6-point "bolt.". The photo below shows what happened to my lugs when the previous owner used a spark plug socket in an attempt to remove the nuts. Notice the scars on the corners about 1/4 inch from the top or the star.
You *Really* need a full depth 6 point regular 13/16 inch or 21mm socket for chrome lug nuts to prevent this happening.
(';')
#12
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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My four bits: the inflation thing.
Factory provided "lug' wrenches have always been very questionable. Although, the Jaguar one is a bit better, not much though.
I grew up with the classic "X" shaped wrench. usually fits almost all lug nuts.
True, a bit shallow for the deeper ones.
Presently, my choice is a breaker bar with a deep socket. But, in the garage, my electric impact with the proper deep impact socket is perfect for removal.
Yeah, torue wrench to put them back. Depends. A healthy air powered impact can distort puny hubs as usually found on compacts and below. Unless "souped' not much of a risk on the beefier hubs. But, caveat, tight enough to stay on is judgemental.
Now the "fancy" "click torque wrenches are not all they seem to be. From the high dollar Snap on or Matco's to the Asian made varieties. Unless they are unloaded, after use, they will take a set and register wrong. Some are just wrong anyway!!!
The classic beam version is much more reliable. And, if one looks inside the "fancy" ones, guess what, there is a beam. It isn't magic!!!
Although my talented son and I disagree, I use "antiseize". Not only on the threads, but a wipe on the ring where the wheel centers on. They can bond there and be the very devil to separate. Usually in wet or snow country though.
Snug and a tug is just fine, most of the time. With a proper wrench of course.
Old Ford T's had rudimentary tool kits in an oil cloth bag. Kinda Jaguar like. One was a wrench that fit the lug nuts and spark plugs as well as the head bolts.
I've a window frame issue to repair. Water intrusion!!! My neighbor gave me two long boards that were the fascia boards on a gable end. rotten ends. And, some nail scars, but otherwise decent. I whacked off the bad wood with my antique Craftsman circular saw. Although alloy, that thing is heavy. In pristine e condition in original case with extra blades and guides, some hand cut a few decades ago for 23 bucks.
Then ripped and cross cut the needed two boards. HF chop saw and contractor's table saw did just fine. The fence is (?), as well as the scale, but my tape isn't, so all is well. Installing anew belt on my HF bench sander was an exercise. I have to relearn the adjustment protocol every time!!!
It did it's job, the boards are not of cabinet quality, but quite decent. Patched the nail scars. I back primed them, they were bare. The face is just fine, in white as needed.
Next session, demo the old, fit the new and do the final trim to fit. Screw for these. I rarely use nails anymore. Won't tell daughter as I am forbidden to climb ladders???
It isn't very high, though!!!
Carl
Factory provided "lug' wrenches have always been very questionable. Although, the Jaguar one is a bit better, not much though.
I grew up with the classic "X" shaped wrench. usually fits almost all lug nuts.
True, a bit shallow for the deeper ones.
Presently, my choice is a breaker bar with a deep socket. But, in the garage, my electric impact with the proper deep impact socket is perfect for removal.
Yeah, torue wrench to put them back. Depends. A healthy air powered impact can distort puny hubs as usually found on compacts and below. Unless "souped' not much of a risk on the beefier hubs. But, caveat, tight enough to stay on is judgemental.
Now the "fancy" "click torque wrenches are not all they seem to be. From the high dollar Snap on or Matco's to the Asian made varieties. Unless they are unloaded, after use, they will take a set and register wrong. Some are just wrong anyway!!!
The classic beam version is much more reliable. And, if one looks inside the "fancy" ones, guess what, there is a beam. It isn't magic!!!
Although my talented son and I disagree, I use "antiseize". Not only on the threads, but a wipe on the ring where the wheel centers on. They can bond there and be the very devil to separate. Usually in wet or snow country though.
Snug and a tug is just fine, most of the time. With a proper wrench of course.
Old Ford T's had rudimentary tool kits in an oil cloth bag. Kinda Jaguar like. One was a wrench that fit the lug nuts and spark plugs as well as the head bolts.
I've a window frame issue to repair. Water intrusion!!! My neighbor gave me two long boards that were the fascia boards on a gable end. rotten ends. And, some nail scars, but otherwise decent. I whacked off the bad wood with my antique Craftsman circular saw. Although alloy, that thing is heavy. In pristine e condition in original case with extra blades and guides, some hand cut a few decades ago for 23 bucks.
Then ripped and cross cut the needed two boards. HF chop saw and contractor's table saw did just fine. The fence is (?), as well as the scale, but my tape isn't, so all is well. Installing anew belt on my HF bench sander was an exercise. I have to relearn the adjustment protocol every time!!!
It did it's job, the boards are not of cabinet quality, but quite decent. Patched the nail scars. I back primed them, they were bare. The face is just fine, in white as needed.
Next session, demo the old, fit the new and do the final trim to fit. Screw for these. I rarely use nails anymore. Won't tell daughter as I am forbidden to climb ladders???
It isn't very high, though!!!
Carl
#13
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