Hi Guys

Thanks for all the help.

To verify a few things. I am currently still running my 6CU. I planned to get her back to the way she was before I started the project and THEN upgrade to 16CU.

Grant the plug in question was this one here:


It was ran with the EFI harness. I literally pulled it out of the of the harness as all it did was use the centre pin (it was doubled up), goes to each side of the bank, deadends and comes back around and earths onto the LH side inlet manifold near the firewall. I verified with a multimeter the point it connects to was the same as chassis ground. The other two wires were cut off inside the flexi conduit.

Hard to explain and show from the picture but this is the cable i yanked out:

I just removed the female end of the plug and earthed it closer to the EFI plug here via a metal washer and screw (plastic clip though). I verified it still is chassis ground with a multimeter but as Greg recommended it may be best to ground this somewhere else so it makes entire contact with the chassis and not just through the screw:


Any idea what this plug was meant to be for?

Also, funny story....I tried the Throttle Capstan test with the ignition on but didn't hear any click (except the sound of it hitting the kickdown switch/microswitch). As I didn't hear anything I thought you might of meant with the engine ticking over . Anyway. I went and tried it again (with no background noise) and did just what you said. And YES I can her something definitely click every time I twist the capstan and it is coming from the Injectors. Is this good? What does this mean?

I hope that gets us all on the same page now. I bloody triple checked that EFI harness in the shed. Gonna be a pain but maybe I'll have to undo the plugs and point to point test it again? Perhaps I have left something else off but I sure as hell have checked every where.

Also I checked the Resistor pack plug to make sure it was pushed in but didn't clean it. Good idea Greg, I will do that next.

So to recap. Last time the engine was running I put her to sleep and did the following:

* Swap out all 12 Spark Plugs.
* Open dizzy cap and lubricate the spindle. Made sure it springs back in place.
* Installed new magnacore ignition leads
* Rip out EFI harness and install new.
* Removed above mentioned earthing to new location.
* Made and ran a new wire for the Temp Sender (Dash) and A/C compressor.
* Repaired connector for oil pressure sender

I have either disturbed something, haven't put something back right or that bloody EFI harness has some issues...mmmmm....just my thoughts.

Gotta get some sleep now...hopefully it comes to me in my dreams lol!

 

Paul
Check that the positive feed TO the coil is on the coil plus. Do NOT despair. OB had all sorts of trouble that makes this look like a walk in the park; but he got there, so will your! The XJS Gods require much sacrifice before smiling upon the chosen!
All part of Life's rich and varied tapestry.
Greg

 

Cheers Greg. Great thought but yes I did in fact triple check it. Thanks for the confidence though. At least I have a global network of support!

That test you do with the capstan and listen for the "clicking" worked. I could hear them every time. What does this mean? Is this good? (See edit from my last post above).

Thanks again.

 

It means that the injectors are indeed working. Clean up the plug to the Lucas box next.
Greg

 

Bro!

This is no Time for Sleeping, we're all on the edge of our Seats!

Get back on the Case Bro!

The Goose must Fly Today!

 

 

Paul, refresh my memory is that wire earthing the injector loom? if so the earth may not be good enough to pass the required current for the injectors.

 

Bro

I know a Pictures worth a Thousand Words but this is getting Crazy, you are almost there!

Don't give up now Blue, its got to be something simple, retrace your Steps on everything you did.

 

Warrjon I can only assume it is mate as it was a separate wire tied in with the EFI harness. It went from singular wire to two conductors and bolted onto the intake manifold near the firewall. Mate...you might be onto something....I will double the conductor size and earth it at a better spot as Greg recommended also.

Greg, I gave the Resistor pack a once over. Spray some electrical cleaning solvent and gave it a brush. Doesn't look new but acceptable:



O.B...sorry bud...I needed some sleep....we are +10 UTC and it was past midnight.....

 

Now I am even more convinced that elusive plug does nothing.

This is the cable here:


If I pull off that boot on the end I find that the wires aren't even connected:


I wonder what this darn wire used to be?

 

Bro

Take out Number 1 injector on 'A' Bank which is very easy to do without taking out the whole Fuel rail, as its got one of the longest rubber fuel pipes on it.

Then put it in a Glass Jar to avoid what the Woz described as 'Flame Thrower Syndrome' then with the ignition on, flick the Capstan round by hand, at which point the Injector should squirt Petrol into that glass Jar.

If it doesn't Check the Injectors are getting Voltage. One probe of your meter in one hole of an Injector Plug the other to earth, you should get a reading 11 to 12 volts.

Then of MEGA Importance, do what Greg said and take out that Silver Ignition Box by the Headlight Nacelle and give the Plug and Socket a really good clean, you've probably got the proper stuff to do that.

Cleaning that Plug and Socket (Gregs idea not mine) got my Car going, as I too wanted to Cry because I could see we were starting to run out of ideas.

Also on one the Air Cleaner Boxes is some sort of Air Temperature Sensor Plug 'Thingy' if that's not wired up correctly then (Greg and the Woz will correct me) I don't think She will start.

We might be barking up the wrong tree altogether, it could just be a Fuel Problem.

Take both Wires off the Fuel Pump and attach your Meter, then get someone to watch the needle on the Meter, while you turn on the Ignition.

The needle on the Meter should go over for 3 seconds before it drops back to Zero where it started.

If the Needle doesn't move, then more than likely its the Fuel Pump Relay, which is under the same cover as the ECU.

Did you perchance disturb it, or short it out when you were messing about with the ECU? its normally the one with a Black diagonal Stripe on, I think its the 3rd one along.

Maybe you disturbed a wire in its holder?

If theres anything wrong with that She won't want to know about Starting, if its OK then Crack the Nut on the 'A' Bank FPR, put a wadge of rag underneath it and Turn the Key, It should jet fuel like a Fire Hose for 3 Seconds.

Since you're doing it in the Lounge, have a Fire Extinguisher Handy, you don't want to burn the house down.

Do Not give up Bro, She absolutely has to Start no matter what!

 

Bro

I'm not gonna lie

The Clean up you did on that Plug and Socket does not look good enough to me.

Anything less than a proper job and you will be wasting your time, can you clean it up with some steel wool or one of those wire brushes that look like a Toothbrush, or even a Toothbrush.

Greg and the Woz will confirm.

 

2 Pack Tobacco Smoking Pipe Shank Cleaning Brushes - Pipe Care Accessories



Cheers
DD

 

Don't mind me I'm stupid sometimes, the injectors are earthed via the ECU and that earth will be down next to the battery.

 

No worries Warrjon thanks for the info anyway. I didn't know where the EFI harness picked up its earth anyway until you told me.

Still I would like to know what the plug was meant to be for.

Anybody know?

 

Paul
Do things methodically. I suggest that you:

• Put back the famous plug and wire that you earthed elsewhere EXACTLY as it was before you moved it.
• Do OB's jamjar test for fuel spray
• Clean up the silver box connectors really well, the WoOz recommends lemon juice.
• VERY carefully clean and check the connectors from the amp to the coil (two of them) and the amp connector to the famous shielded wire.
• Do a spark test on the king lead from the coil to the dizzy centre.
• Then do a test on one of your lovely new spark plug leads to earth from the plug end. You are looking for a fat blue spark (like Boris Johnson).

All this will only take an hour, if that. Then try again to start the thing with a decent battery. Then we can go from there.
Greg

 

Injector click as asked is GOOD.

After breakfast, remove the earth you did, since you have now found it was a dead end wire anyway. Try the START process, maybe as simple as that.

If NOT, read on.

That wire was more than likely the old cold start wires, or probably Cruise Control related, but that was off that car waaaaaay back before Trevor.

Turn the key to IGN ON, operated the accelerator pedal twice. This will activate the injectors, and since the pump has primed the rail, squirt fuel into the engine. NOW turn the key to START, and see what happens.

If it runs for 2 seconds and stops, it has lost the injector pulse signal, and that will be sorted once you tell us what happens with the above.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Still stuck Took a slightly different approach and tested a few more things.

The EFI harness is one of the main things I have disrupted so it seemed logical to double check my wiring there first before I moved on.

I also got a from 34by151 with some logical advice. Always valued. So...firstly:

I checked resistance at the male end of the plug going off to the injectors that I made. KB wire to each firing conductor. So that is 4 pairs. Each has 3 injector coils in parallel which read 1.1 ohms for every reading. Seems like the circuit is continuous AND same resistance for each of the 4 groups.

Next wast to make sure it married up with the female plug end going to the ballast resistors and back to the ECU. Sure enough...KB to KB....and each group of 3 injectors married up where she should. Looks like the EFI harness is in the clear.

Then I moved onto the Ballast resistor pack. Note: I haven't even disconnected this since I started working on the Goose, and she was running before so it should have been ok. None the less I cleaned up the contacts and ensured it was seated in correctly.

Now:

With the rest of the highly valued steps.

Firstly that wire/plug I removed is all cut up and removed so I can't put it back. I have moved that redundant wire to a proper earth and confirmed it equals chassis ground the same where it used to live. I have also proved this cable was redundant as I pulled off the old sleeving and found the wires weren't even joined. Perhaps Grant has guessed correctly it was part of the old cruise control circuitry?

I have no doubt in my mind this cable was doing nothing...at the most going to earth.

Next I did the same as the WoOz recommended and just for spitz and giggles I left this "redundant earth" disconnected and tried again....no luck.

So...looking at Greg's list, which I valued greatly....I am up to the Jam Jar test. I am a little scared. How do I avoid getting fuel squirting out everywhere when I first take it off? The rail will be pressured up will it not? I am going to choose injector 1A as OB suggested as it is easily accessible and the hose is long.

Also I am pretty sure my fuel pump is working as when I start the ignition and pump the pedal I can hear the fuel pump make that "wining" sound for about 3 secs like it always does.

Ok well I am ready to blow up my living room....

Any last prayers and advice please insert down below...



edit: I also took off the dizzy cap last month and removed the rotor to lubricate it. I place it back and ensure it has that little 15 degree spring to it. Can this be put back the wrong way or it only fits on on way? Just wanted to ask before I rip off all my leads and check that also


edit 2:

• Put back the famous plug and wire that you earthed elsewhere EXACTLY as it was before you moved it - see above
• Do OB's jamjar test for fuel spray - coming up next
• Clean up the silver box connectors really well, the WoOz recommends lemon juice - done with electrical contact cleaner. Used lemon in vodka
• VERY carefully clean and check the connectors from the amp to the coil (two of them) and the amp connector to the famous shielded wire - Now have single coil setup. Will check
• Do a spark test on the king lead from the coil to the dizzy centre - yikes....will ask more on this when I get up to it.
• Then do a test on one of your lovely new spark plug leads to earth from the plug end. You are looking for a fat blue spark (like Boris Johnson).

 

Bro

That ain't gonna happen!

The Fuel rail might be pressurized but the Injector will be stopping the fuel from squirting out.

(It will be sealing it off like a plug) so no worries there.

Then put the Injector in a Jam Jar or Similar, turn on the Ignition and then Flick the Capstan round by hand.

The Injector will only squirt once and only about a Teaspoon of fuel will come out before it seals itself off, until you do it again.

The Jam Jar is only to prevent a possible fuel mist but what you will probably get instead is just a little splash of fuel in the Jam Jar.

Sorry about my harsh comments on Cleaning that plug and socket with Your Toothbrush, I meant to say use Wifeys one instead.

 

Ok. So to add to the above. Do I negate the need for the jam jar test if the following occurs:

Took out pickles and poured pickle juice in sink. Brought pickle jar to engine bay. Started to undo injector 1A fuel pipe. As I started to jimmy off the pipe fuel was squirting out of it.

This tells me the fuel pump is working and the rail is getting pressured up.

Do I need to proceed with ripping off the pipe, placing it in the jar and flicking the captstan to make it squirt?

If so how do I depressurize it?

edit: Whoops I read that wrong. So I have to take out the whole injector to do the jam jar test? I can only see two nuts. Do I just take them off and pull up or do I need to take the incoming fuel hose off as well?