Paul
You undo the metal plate holding the injector to the inlet manifold, and pull the injector out of the manifold. Leave the supply rubber pipe to the injector from the rail alone. Then put the injector into a jamjar, pressurise the rail by running the pump a few times on the ignition for 3 secs each switch-on, then get out of the car, ignition still on, and flick the capstan and see if the injector sprays into the jamjar. Whether a pickle jar will work, hard to say!
Greg

 

Cheers Greg. I undid those two little nuts and removed the plate but it seems stuck. Do I just give it a hard yank upwards?

Can't seem to pull the barstool up...don't wanna break it:

 

Wiggle it around, do NOT get rough with it, but be firm.

An empty beer can will do, you got plenty of them laying around. Just something for the fuel to spray into as apposed to spraying all over the engine, and risking a BBQ.

I edited that post up a tad, those wires are more than likely the OLD cold start injector wires.

 

Ok just did the Aussie version of the Jam Jar test which is the Pickle Jar test. Tests ok. The real question is....do I put the pickles back in and place it back in the fridge for wifey?

Injector off. Pickle filter on:



As OB said, when I moved the Capstan throttle it squirted about a teaspoon into the pickle jar. Yes!



Hard to see from the picture but this is what I drill for in the deep blue sea (2 squirts in the jar):



Ok. So what does this tell me?

Could it be the EFI side of things is ok. Maybe the other things I messed with like the plugs, leads and dizzy are not right? Does anybody know if the rotor on the dizzy only goes on one way? I took it off to lubricate it last month or so.

 

Goodo, the EFI appears OK.

The next one is tricky, but with the injector still in that jar, and the MAIN COIL lead unplugged, crank the engine, and note the squirting, or lack of, PLEASE.

If that is OK, and I reckon it will be, refit that injector, and the coil lead.

NOW,

Find one of the old spark plugs, and remove one of the leads, 2A is easy, and plug the spare sparker into it, and rest the casing on a convenient bolt so as to earth the spark plug, and crank the engine whilst looking for a FAT BLUE CRACK of a spark.

Once you answer that, the next step will come along.

Put the pickles back, you will be on the rig when she finds out, and safe as houses.

 

Update:

• Put back the famous plug and wire that you earthed elsewhere EXACTLY as it was before you moved it - confirmed redundant.
  
• Do OB's jamjar test for fuel spray - completed and passed test.
  
• Clean up the silver box connectors really well, the WoOz recommends lemon juice - done with electrical contact cleaner.
  
• VERY carefully clean and check the connectors from the amp to the coil (two of them) and the amp connector to the famous shielded wire - Now have single coil setup. Checked connections. Confirmed ok.
  
• Do a spark test on the king lead from the coil to the dizzy centre -
• Then do a test on one of your lovely new spark plug leads to earth from the plug end. You are looking for a fat blue spark (like Boris Johnson).

Haven't done the last two. Any chance somebody could put up a step by step on how to do correctly. I haven't done it before

Thank you all so much.

 

So Grant I do this with the King Lead unplugged from the Dizzy yes?

Getting late here....need that boy of mine to crank the engine....will have to continue tomorrow

 

Yes.

If for some strange reason that engine fires with that injector out of its hole, things could get messy. Beter to be safe and ensure it cannot fire at all.

Talk with you tomorrow, rest easy, it will be something silly, always is,

 

So true, so wise. The voice of real experience, cannot be faked.
Greg

 

Glad to see your getting there Bro!

You will have her running by Tomorrow, if it were me I wouldn't have bothered with a Fire Extinguisher, not a Full Size one anyway!

Pickles and Petrol, never tried that one before, do you just light them afterwards so they cook themselves.

If you get any problems, I think I've got 'Red Adair's' number on my Speed dial, but I think his Sons doing it now.

 

Ok I did the "Squirt-in-Pickle-Jar-whilst-King-Lead-off" test.

Just to confirm, this is whilst my son cranked the engine and not just turning the ignition on.

Firstly I pulled the king lead off from the coil end.

Next I placed the injector in the pickle jar again. Put the key in the ignition and turned it ignition on only. Noticed the fuel rail pressured up and it gave 1 squirt into the jar. That ok/normal right?

Then I got the lad to crank the engine whilst I watched the pickle jar....NO Squirt. Good. Obviously the engine tried to turn over but didn't get far. I tried it one more time. My son cranked, I watched.....NO Squirt.

So this is good right?

 

Ok next test. I pulled out 2A and I am ready to test for spark.

Just not sure on a few things as I haven't done this before ....(yes I am a late starter with automobiles)

So to correctly do this I am earthing out the bottom of the spark plug onto a known earth?

As per the picture I confirmed that this old bolt hole on the intake manifold does indeed go to chassis ground, confirmed with ohm meter. Is that ok?

Just don't want to crank the engine until I confirm





Lol in my trade we only find sparks when something is wrong! (One day I will be a bush Auto Electrician....one day.....)

 

That is the priming squirt, this means the ECU is firing the injectors and is most likely good

NO not good, it should squirt fuel when cranking. The shielded white wire provides the tach signal to the ECU, without this the ECU does not know the engine is turning so will not inject fuel.

Check that shielded wire.

 

Hi Bro

Unless I have completely misunderstood what you are saying, that's NOT GOOD! that's BAD!

Ok back to the beginning: Don't know why you disconnected the Injector from its Fuel Pipe to do the Squirt Test, as it would need Fuel passing through the Injector to Squirt Fuel into the Jar. (so lets just gloss over that one doh! )

Ok Now you have disconnected the King Lead from the Dizzy which is GOOD because under no Circumstances do you want the Engine to even attempt to Start with even one Injector out, or you would need Red Adair to put the Fire out.

So Just to be 150% The King Lead must be off the Dizzy so it definitely positively cannot attempt to Start.

So lets assume you have only One Injector With its Fuel Pipe Connected with its Nozzle in the Jam Jar.

You Turn on the Ignition and then Flick the Capstan Round by hand and it Squirts into the Jar, every time you do that.

So now when you Spin the Engine on the Starter, which cannot possibly Start because you have taken the King Lead off the Dizzy.

That same Injector Should still Squirt when the Engine Completes its Cycle, because if not the Engine wouldn't Start at all, even if the King lead was connected.

If you see what I mean?

So it looks to me like the Injectors are not getting the Signal to tell them to Squirt.

This could very easily be caused by the Plug and Socket on that Silver Box that you were Cleaning up.

So at this Stage we will require the Services of 'The Wizard'

 

Bro

That Plug and Socket on the Silver Box needs to look as Clean as this after I had cleaned it, or you could be Chasing Shadows, trying to get her to Start.



If it doesn't look as clean as this you could be Chasing Shadows getting her to Start.

Same with the Socket





Give the Socket a Good Clean as well.

If the Injectors are not Firing, a Corroded Plug and Socket could be the cause of the Problem.

 

Checking the Spark Plugs are Sparking

You could set a Plug up like this.



Checking a Spark Plug is Working
You could use a Similar set up if you are doing this on your own.

 

Paul,

That spark plug positioning is GOOD, and easily visible.

The NO SQUIRT, at crank is NOT good, as already stated.

That shielded wire mentioned is a concern, BUT, at crank it is NOT sending a signal, FACT. The starter relay has a wire going to the ECU from terminal C1/C4 of the starter realy to pin #26 of the ECU.

HOWEVER, you have NOT played around in this area, so I cannot see why its gone AWOL at this time of the day.

The shielded wire (TV Antenna Coax on the Goose) is suspect of course, and you have been messing in that area. It runs up from the amp, out the front, and down the LH inlet manifold, and resplices to the OE coax somewhere near the oil sender units, and thats from memory mate.

PM me your mobile number, and I will walk you throughh this is you want.

 

Cheers guys! Seems like we are getting close with everybodies help. So....I skip the spark plug test and hunt for this coax lead straight away?

That oil sender is under the capstan right? If so it has two spade connections. The top one I refitted off as it was too loose. The coax is near this area is it?

I am typing this whilst on the road today (out to a musical) so will have to continue tonight or tomorrow morning. Doh!

I wanna get back home now!

 

That large split conduit on top of the LH inlet manifold is where that coax is located, again from memory.

It travels around the back of the engine, probably more closer to the heater tap than the oil sender, but still in that general area.

Not sure if I sent you this Pin Out earlier, so here it is again if so.

XJ-S ECU Pinout table.doc

 

Cheers. Yeah there was a bit of a wire jumble behind that oil sender near the capstan. I cut and spliced two wires (no, no coax cable) one for the temp sender one for the air con. Maybe I stirred something up?

By the way. What is the deal with that sender? It has a plug on top and one on the side. One pressure signal what is the other?

Also....the rotor in the dizzy. I know we have a fuel issue first but can that rotor be clicked in the wrong way? I guess one thing at a time but just curious. Will soon find out if we have no spark I guess.