Manifold shield AJ16
#1
Manifold shield AJ16
My exhaust manifold heat shield is looking a bit sorry for itself. I've tried polish, wire wool, coke & tin foil but I think it might be easier to just find a better one.
There are a few on Ebay that are specified as X300 or early AJ6 parts but look exactly the same. Will these fit my 96 AJ16?
This one looks quite good:
Jaguar X300 XJ40 XJ6 Chrome Manifold Heat Shield | eBay
Thanks!
Johnny
There are a few on Ebay that are specified as X300 or early AJ6 parts but look exactly the same. Will these fit my 96 AJ16?
This one looks quite good:
Jaguar X300 XJ40 XJ6 Chrome Manifold Heat Shield | eBay
Thanks!
Johnny
#2
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JohnnyM (02-24-2014)
#3
#4
Penetrating oil and warm engine till smoking and let cool. Use a small air rachet 1/4" drive preferred to prevent breakage. Slowly goes it. Might take a few times, can't rush this or you'll have to take manifold of to drill out. Keep heat cycling with penetrating oil and slowly undo. Hand wrench makes too much force as you will try to force that's why I suggest a 1/4" drive air rachet.
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JohnnyM (02-24-2014)
#5
#7
Thanks for all the good advice.
Plus gas did the trick.
Heres the old one, rubbed down but was never going to shine:
And the Ebay replacement after a bit of polish (bolts copper greased):
While it was off I spotted this crack in the manifold, what immediate implications does this present, if any?
There is a used replacement available on Ebay for about £100. If I buy this is it a straight forward swap?
Plus gas did the trick.
Heres the old one, rubbed down but was never going to shine:
And the Ebay replacement after a bit of polish (bolts copper greased):
While it was off I spotted this crack in the manifold, what immediate implications does this present, if any?
There is a used replacement available on Ebay for about £100. If I buy this is it a straight forward swap?
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#12
#13
yeah he was saying if you needed it for EGR you could just drill it out.
make sure to remove bolts in reverse of the factory instruction and make sure the engine is stone cold to prevent warping
well actually if it is trash don't worry about removing it so much..but still. best to do things correctly
make sure to remove bolts in reverse of the factory instruction and make sure the engine is stone cold to prevent warping
well actually if it is trash don't worry about removing it so much..but still. best to do things correctly
#14
We have two issues here and as you are in London I don't think either issue will affect you.
Here in the States we have two polution contol systems that are mounted on our exhaust manifolds:
1. is EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation which is piping coming off the rear end of the rear exhaust manifold. Exhaust gas is circulated to the intake to dilute the intake charge (reduce temp.?) thereby reducing oxides of nitrogen which in turn reduces smog.
2. The second set of piping, which is mounted to the dirlled and tapped pad on the lower front of the manifold is for the secondary air injection system which pumps additional air (oxygen) into the exhaust ahead of the catalytic converter in order to promote combustion of unburned hydrocarbons pumped out of each cylinder during "normal" combustion.
That's it in a "nutshell" as we say!
Here in the States we have two polution contol systems that are mounted on our exhaust manifolds:
1. is EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation which is piping coming off the rear end of the rear exhaust manifold. Exhaust gas is circulated to the intake to dilute the intake charge (reduce temp.?) thereby reducing oxides of nitrogen which in turn reduces smog.
2. The second set of piping, which is mounted to the dirlled and tapped pad on the lower front of the manifold is for the secondary air injection system which pumps additional air (oxygen) into the exhaust ahead of the catalytic converter in order to promote combustion of unburned hydrocarbons pumped out of each cylinder during "normal" combustion.
That's it in a "nutshell" as we say!
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JohnnyM (03-05-2014)
#15
Thanks for the clear explanation Roger.
I've just spent a couple of hours removing the manifold but I ran into a snag.. I had no idea I had to loosen the down pipe as well, or that it would need to be reattached with new seals and bolts. I had a nightmare getting the lower bolt of the manifold undone only to have to do it back up again and return with the right bits
Luckily help was just a phone call away (thanks Dave @ JEC).
Can anyone tell me exactly which bits I need to complete the job?
Thanks!
I've just spent a couple of hours removing the manifold but I ran into a snag.. I had no idea I had to loosen the down pipe as well, or that it would need to be reattached with new seals and bolts. I had a nightmare getting the lower bolt of the manifold undone only to have to do it back up again and return with the right bits
Luckily help was just a phone call away (thanks Dave @ JEC).
Can anyone tell me exactly which bits I need to complete the job?
Thanks!
#17
A couple of people I've spoken to suggest I get a replacement manifold gasket, an olive for the gasket/downpipe join and apparently there are some self locking bolts in there as well that cannot be reused.
I managed to undo the awkward couple of bolts on the gasket/downpipe connection from above. Is it possible to loosen the downpipe enough to remove the manifold without raising the car (it's parked on the street). Any pointers on how to loosen the downpipe would be much appreciated!
Thanks
Johnny
I managed to undo the awkward couple of bolts on the gasket/downpipe connection from above. Is it possible to loosen the downpipe enough to remove the manifold without raising the car (it's parked on the street). Any pointers on how to loosen the downpipe would be much appreciated!
Thanks
Johnny
#18
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#19
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#20