Marelli Ignition Modules
#1
Marelli Ignition Modules
Hi there!
Whilst sorting my V12 out, I decided it would be best to redo the entire ignition system including distributor cap, ht-leads, plugs and co. At the same time, the iginition modules (located on the front cross member) should be done...
Jaguar seems to say "not available" anymore... But there seem to be enough pattern parts. Has anyone had any experience with them?
Like from Carquest the article 55-1635, or LX-1016 from Standard Motor Products (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # LX1016) ???
I don't fancy buying something expensive and finding out, that my 1989.5 Marelli V12 doesn't like the idea... I'm also not that keen on using used parts, as you don't know how long the part will live on.
Any ideas, tips, and co?
Cheers
Damien
Whilst sorting my V12 out, I decided it would be best to redo the entire ignition system including distributor cap, ht-leads, plugs and co. At the same time, the iginition modules (located on the front cross member) should be done...
Jaguar seems to say "not available" anymore... But there seem to be enough pattern parts. Has anyone had any experience with them?
Like from Carquest the article 55-1635, or LX-1016 from Standard Motor Products (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # LX1016) ???
I don't fancy buying something expensive and finding out, that my 1989.5 Marelli V12 doesn't like the idea... I'm also not that keen on using used parts, as you don't know how long the part will live on.
Any ideas, tips, and co?
Cheers
Damien
#2
I think the item you want is listed on Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay as item number: 400516121491 though the price seems to have gone up since I bought 2 of them at about £26 or so each. I think they are Italian made Cambiare products.
Rgds
A.
Rgds
A.
#3
I have not had trouble with the transistor modules on top of the radiator or with the coils. I have replaced them at different times and great cost only to find out that the culprit always seems to be the magnetic pickup at the bottom of the timing cover that reads the three fingers on the harmonic balancer to read crankshaft position.
I was only getting about a year and a half life from the sensor. There is an updated p/n and most suppliers such as XKs and Welsh send the updated part. I keep a spare in the car and an 8mm wrench to change it out and keep a wire coat hangar to snake the cable up the front of the timing cover. Jag secures the cable with clips along the left side timing cover bolts. I don't secure the cable. The connector is at the left side of the air conditioning compressor.
I would be driving along and the car would shut off. At first I thought heat was attacking the transistors on top of the radiator. What a great place to mount a heat sensitive component, right on top of a hot radiator. Heat and water were getting to the sensor instead. After about 45 minutes it would start right up after the sensor cooled.
Another weak spot is moisture getting into the connector at the compressor. Disconnect, clean with contact cleaner and apply bulb grease and you will not have trouble with that connector.
Be careful about distributor caps. You want one that says marelli on the cap. aftermarket caps without marelli embossed have had trouble with the carbon spring loaded center contact inside.
If you change the rotor (which is actually two six cylinder rotors stacked on top of each other) apply some RTV silicone to the inside where the rotor fits onto the top of the distributor shaft. The rotor slowly burns through the plastic and shorts one back of cylinders which then continue to expel gas into the Cats and fry them. On my car, that was on the r/h side while the left side operated normally.
I was only getting about a year and a half life from the sensor. There is an updated p/n and most suppliers such as XKs and Welsh send the updated part. I keep a spare in the car and an 8mm wrench to change it out and keep a wire coat hangar to snake the cable up the front of the timing cover. Jag secures the cable with clips along the left side timing cover bolts. I don't secure the cable. The connector is at the left side of the air conditioning compressor.
I would be driving along and the car would shut off. At first I thought heat was attacking the transistors on top of the radiator. What a great place to mount a heat sensitive component, right on top of a hot radiator. Heat and water were getting to the sensor instead. After about 45 minutes it would start right up after the sensor cooled.
Another weak spot is moisture getting into the connector at the compressor. Disconnect, clean with contact cleaner and apply bulb grease and you will not have trouble with that connector.
Be careful about distributor caps. You want one that says marelli on the cap. aftermarket caps without marelli embossed have had trouble with the carbon spring loaded center contact inside.
If you change the rotor (which is actually two six cylinder rotors stacked on top of each other) apply some RTV silicone to the inside where the rotor fits onto the top of the distributor shaft. The rotor slowly burns through the plastic and shorts one back of cylinders which then continue to expel gas into the Cats and fry them. On my car, that was on the r/h side while the left side operated normally.
#4
Do you have a source? I'm sure many would love to know!
Last time I looked (3 years ago?) I couldn't find any bona-fide Marelli-made caps. The consensus was that Marelli stopped producing them.
It also appears ( I haven't researched in depth) that Jaguar and 'the usual suppliers' are all selling the very same Italian made aftermarket replacement cap. It might be in a box labeled Jaguar, Airtex, Beck Arnley, Standard Motor Products....whatever....but they're all selling the same thing.
Cheers
DD
#7
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#8
In my opinion the Intermotor brand modules you showed will be fine. They are probably made in the same facility in Italy as the originals. I have never had any problem with Intermotor parts I have used.
I say buy them and keep the old ones in a little box in the boot.
Greg
#9
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