Where did this " pea gravel" idea come from??? Probably not the best idea I've ever hear of ( in fact I've never heard of it for good reason!) if you trying to break loose rust I would have recommended some large washers on a length of thin cord attached at the opening so they can be fished out with the cord.

 

All is now fine and working. Got the rest of the pea gravel out put everything back together and wallah! She runs, revs, and purs like the meany she is. Now I just have to figure out where the loss of brakes, and brake fluid are so I can have brakes to stop her. There is no loss of fluid that can be seen on the ground or anywhere so, this is going to be a hard one I think.

 

If your losing fluid and you can't see it, it's probably (and unfortunately) going inside the booster.

 

So, if that's the case, does that mean the booster is bad or is it a seal?

 

Excellent news on the engine. Well done to you. Just shows what careful, thorough patient work can do. There are no shortcuts on any car of this age that has been unserviced for several years.
Brakes: It almost certainly means the master cylinder seals are shot. Fluid gets past the M/C seals and ends up in the booster body. Buy a new one, they are not cheap but do not economise say I, and fit it. It bolts onto the booster (vacuum servo) quite easily. Doing this is a VERY wise precaution in a car that old in any event.
Pic attached of mine being fitted during the rebuild I did, the M/C is the gold bit. Also, very wise to renew the flexible brake pipes too. One each side at the front and one, a bit hard to see tucked up by the top and front side of the rear axle cage, that joins the rear brake calipers to the hard line from the front. Then bleed the entire system very carefully starting at the back two calipers, do the furthest caliper from the M/C first, then do the two at the front also starting with the furthest first. DOT 4 fluid.
Greg

 

So, I don't have to get a new booster? I can just change out the master cylinder and suck the fluid out of the booster?

 

Probably not, but there are no certainties. A broken booster would mean a very hard pedal and not much stopping power, and on its own would not cause fluid loss.
Greg

 

Simple check for the condition of the booster, sit inside the car with the doors and windows closed, fire it up and press the brake pedal. You should hear a brief hiss as the pedal travels down, if you hold a steady pressure (or a steady position seeing as you may not have brake fluid) you should not hear any hissing from the footwell, if you do, you've got a leaking diaphragm.

 

Yeah, I don't think it is the booster. The seals in the master are bad like mentioned. When the car is off I can press the pedal a few times and have a little bit of pressure but it goes completely away when started. I have gone through 2 reservoirs of brake fluid since I purchased her with no fluid loss on the ground anywhere. I'll get a master cylinder and I also need a new reservoir as well do to the fact that the float casing has disintegrated and all over the bottom filter. Not happy that those are $156 US just for the res and cap. I have found a master cylinder for like $100 US so If anyone knows of cheaper, let me know. I don't want used either. Don't want to have to do this again in any part of the near future.

Had it running the other day like I was saying in the previous post. I am still concerned about the temp. After about 2.5 hours of idling, reving, and turnin the car on and off the temp gauge finally rolled up to the bottom of the H so I shut her down. The electric fan didnt kick on ever. It did the last 2 times. I am half tempted to add direct toggle switch for said electric fan.
Any thoughts?

Almost drivable.... So in advance and through past assistance, thank you all that have contributed thus far.

 

The booster sounds good to me, going new for the master cylinder is a good move. Best to get on to it soon, I've seen brake fluid ruin the diaphragms in the booster. Nearly there...

 

I have one comin in the mail currently. I also ordered a new reservoir. The old one, the filter at the bottom was all covered in the metal float casing of the lid from sitting so long. Other than that I need some throttle linkage bushings at the body because mine are gone. Thinking that could be part of my minor hesitation.

Yesterday I pulled it out of the parking spot a few times to take it through the apartment parking lot and noticed a click from the rear end while driving forward. I doesn't do it while in reverse. I am thinking it is my emergency brake sticking or something. Once I get the master cylinder and res hooked up, i'll take the wheels off at that point and give it a close inspection since I'll be bleeding the brakes at that time.

Might as well get new pads as well, while I am at it. Are the front pads and rear pads different? While looking for some I saw a few different styles. Normal lookin ones and some regular squareish looking ones. Anyone know the real part numbers for the brakes, that I can cross reference?

Also, when it comes to the booster. is there a way to suck the fluid out of the booster to keep it from messing with the diaphragm?

 

Ok so, the car runs fine, only when it warms up a tad. Still idles funky and dies when you press the accelerator..... LIke I said though, it runs fine after a few starts and it runs for a couple min..... WTF!!!!

Also, where can I find the darn throttle linkage bushings that go on the plate, beside the throttle body??? Can not find them anywhere. Anyone know a part number for them>?

 

Google, XJS throttle bushings, they're available at a bunch of places, $2 to $12.

 

C209524

 

Thx guys. Do you have any idea about the rough idle at start, then smooths out and runs and drives fine after a few starts and idle?

 

Ok so I have re-checked all the crap I have done. I was just doing some reading earlier at work about rough idles and so on.. I read that a funky/bad alternator could cause rough idle and stalling. Just so happens that my lil lightning bolt alternator light on the dash is lit most of the time. The few times that it ran fine, it wasn't on but would only come on, now and again. Could this be what has been the problem this whole damn time since the begining?

 

1. never tried to evacuate fluid from a brake booster. Vacum it?
shop vac or the engine itself.


2. Not sure what a bum alternator would do as to ragged engine running. More load? Short at times. Hook up the VOM via the cigar lighter and read volts under various loads and RPM's. Raggedy readings or smooth.


When the engine is in a hissy mood, unhook the alternator's large wire. If the engine cleans up, you have it. The diode bridge can fail and do odd things other than quit charging!!!


The fluid level indicator in my car has expired. I understand it's workings and at one time had it working. As I do "motor stables" fairly regularly, not a big thing. At least the plastic resevoir to iron MC joint doesn't leak, so fine with me.


Carl

 

Well, it has been a while since I have been on here but in the past few warm days, here and there, I have gotten back out to mess with Jaggy... Still rough oscillating idle.. Until i keep starting it and letting it idle for a loooong period of time and restarting it. then once it gets to the N on the temp gauge I can start it and it runs perfectly fine... I have checked all the sensors, wires and even checked the resistance on the pick-up coil in the dizzy. Everything is fine... Still at a loss, been a year of tinkering here and there...

 

Hi Metaxalone

It sounds like there could be a problem with the Injectors firing and the little box that does this is called the Resistor Pack.

Its a Silver Box at the Front of the Car on the Right Hand Side, down by the Headlamp Nacelle and has a Plug and Socket at the bottom.

If the Contacts on the Plug and Socket are Corroded or even just Plain Dirty, then it can play havoc with the Injectors Firing.

So take the Silver Box out and get the Contacts Clean and the Same with the Plug.

I think this may be be something that you haven't tried so far but was the thing that got my own Car running like a bird when there were almost no tricks left to try.

The Photo is of the Resistor Pack on my Marelli Car although the one on a Lucas Car, will look very similar.



The Resistor Pack that Controls the Injectors on an XJS V12.



The Plug that goes in the Bottom of the Resistor Pack that Controls the Firing of the Injectors.
As such it is essential that the Plug and Socket are Clean.

 

Thanks for the info. Luckily when I purchased some spare parts many months ago, I did request one of those for some reason. I'll try and clean them tomorrow and if it doesn't work, I'll try and replace it with the used one.