New 82' XJS owner with some issues
#101
04-20-2016, 08:29 PM
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-20-2016)
#102
04-20-2016, 08:45 PM
#103
04-20-2016, 09:40 PM
I also have a vacuum line issue. The distributor has 2 lines coming out of it. The one coming out of the top is fine- connected to middle of aav hose I do believe.
The one coming out of the side comes around to the left side fender well and oly has a small air filter on it. Where does the other end hook up to?
Also how much pressure does it take to move the fuel pressure regulators to open or close? I tried blowing and sucking on the hose of each one and couldn't feel a difference. Felt solid with no movement. Didn't feel like there was much vacuum from the other end either.
I have also found a reasonably priced ECU and was wonder if it was usable on mine. It is out of a '92 XJS.
The one coming out of the side comes around to the left side fender well and oly has a small air filter on it. Where does the other end hook up to?
Also how much pressure does it take to move the fuel pressure regulators to open or close? I tried blowing and sucking on the hose of each one and couldn't feel a difference. Felt solid with no movement. Didn't feel like there was much vacuum from the other end either.
I have also found a reasonably priced ECU and was wonder if it was usable on mine. It is out of a '92 XJS.
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-20-2016)
#104
04-20-2016, 10:52 PM
#105
04-20-2016, 11:02 PM
contact David Boger at everydayxj.com he should be able to pull a good set off a car and get them to you for a very reasonable price. Yes you still need the amp, I'm running the updated single coil. Stock HEI amp.
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-20-2016)
#106
04-20-2016, 11:06 PM
Nice. So the single coil hooks up just like the other but without the second coil right? Which single coil fits mine? I shall have to go look.
#107
04-20-2016, 11:11 PM
Wait.... I just read this... XJS Ignition
It says, what I am interpreting, is that the single coil works but it is still better to keep the secondary?
It says, what I am interpreting, is that the single coil works but it is still better to keep the secondary?
#108
04-21-2016, 12:12 AM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,825
Received 10,876 Likes
on
7,153 Posts
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-21-2016)
#109
04-21-2016, 12:23 AM
Awesome. Thanks for the Part number. I see 2 sets of leads though. 2 and 2. Does that actually mean I can still keep the aux in use?
Is there a way to do away with the ignition amplifier or change it out for a better one? Since I noticed the black side connector is broken. Female connector with wires on right side of box closest to windscreen.
Is there a way to do away with the ignition amplifier or change it out for a better one? Since I noticed the black side connector is broken. Female connector with wires on right side of box closest to windscreen.
Last edited by Metaxalone; 04-21-2016 at 12:36 AM.
#110
04-21-2016, 03:36 AM
Veteran Member
The ECU you posted will NOT run your car. The plug you have broken leads to another plug on a lead that comes out of the dizzy. That lead is not available, but if you take the amp apart you can probably make up a plug to replace the broken one.
Your problems are almost certainly not caused by the ECU. The TPS is reading a bit high at the closed position but may be adjustable, if not it needs replacing. If you have not done the straightforward things on the list of possibilities, you are most unlikely to end up with a reliable fault-free car. I also doubt, if the engine will run, that the amp is the problem, nor the coil at tickover.
Greg
Your problems are almost certainly not caused by the ECU. The TPS is reading a bit high at the closed position but may be adjustable, if not it needs replacing. If you have not done the straightforward things on the list of possibilities, you are most unlikely to end up with a reliable fault-free car. I also doubt, if the engine will run, that the amp is the problem, nor the coil at tickover.
Greg
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-21-2016)
#111
04-21-2016, 03:46 AM
The ECU you posted will NOT run your car. The plug you have broken leads to another plug on a lead that comes out of the dizzy. That lead is not available, but if you take the amp apart you can probably make up a plug to replace the broken one.
Your problems are almost certainly not caused by the ECU. The TPS is reading a bit high at the closed position but may be adjustable, if not it needs replacing. If you have not done the straightforward things on the list of possibilities, you are most unlikely to end up with a reliable fault-free car. I also doubt, if the engine will run, that the amp is the problem, nor the coil at tickover.
Greg
Your problems are almost certainly not caused by the ECU. The TPS is reading a bit high at the closed position but may be adjustable, if not it needs replacing. If you have not done the straightforward things on the list of possibilities, you are most unlikely to end up with a reliable fault-free car. I also doubt, if the engine will run, that the amp is the problem, nor the coil at tickover.
Greg
All my parts should be here on the 25th. Cap, rotor, wires, plugs. I also plan on takin the aav off and tinkering with it. testing it in water and so forth. If need be, i'll rebuild it per the rebuild page. And what is a dizzy? The distributor?
And, ow can I look for a vacuum leak when I have looked everywhere. Start spraying stuff all over the place?
Last edited by Metaxalone; 04-21-2016 at 03:48 AM.
#112
04-21-2016, 06:14 AM
Veteran Member
Vac leaks: worry about them if and when you have done everything else.
Greg
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-22-2016)
#113
04-21-2016, 07:45 PM
I'll be doin that suff on my next day off which is Monday when my parts come. Which leads me to ask about the dizzy arm. While I had the old cap off, lookin for moisture and cracks. I tried seeing how the arm comes off. I tried pullin a little but I didn't want to break it off so I stopped messin with it. How do you get the arm off? Just pull it upward or is there a clip under it or something?
#114
04-22-2016, 01:19 AM
Veteran Member
I'll be doin that suff on my next day off which is Monday when my parts come. Which leads me to ask about the dizzy arm. While I had the old cap off, lookin for moisture and cracks. I tried seeing how the arm comes off. I tried pullin a little but I didn't want to break it off so I stopped messin with it. How do you get the arm off? Just pull it upward or is there a clip under it or something?
No clip, it is just stuck tight after years of never being serviced. Try a hand each end and rocking it slightly about the spindle (ie pulling up one end and pushing down the other). DO NOT exert an upwards pull all over it, just rock it like a see saw, or you will break something vital.
If that does not work after 10 mins of patient rocking then you can CAREFULLY cut the black part vertically down the side of the bit that attaches to the spindle with a dremel to release the grip. BUT carefully cover and seal with rages, plastic and tape etc etc below the rotor so no bits fall down inside.
Greg
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-22-2016)
#115
04-22-2016, 04:16 AM
Wow! So that little rod that the arm sits on is the only thing that keeps it in time. I would hope that that tiny rod has a flat notch in it so that you can put the new one back on in the exact same degree or close as possible. If not, how do you keep it in time? Do you have to readjust the timing?
#116
04-22-2016, 06:56 AM
Veteran Member
Wow! So that little rod that the arm sits on is the only thing that keeps it in time. I would hope that that tiny rod has a flat notch in it so that you can put the new one back on in the exact same degree or close as possible. If not, how do you keep it in time? Do you have to readjust the timing?
Greg
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg in France:
Metaxalone (04-22-2016),
NathanDD6 (05-01-2016)
#117
04-22-2016, 02:33 PM
Ok right on. I was under the impression that it was smaller due to the fact that I could only see like a 1/8 circle on top with out being able to see the side. Thanks for the info Greg. Been a lot of help. Just as the others have been. Now I just wait until my part get here. Anxious....
#118
04-22-2016, 04:31 PM
The following users liked this post:
Metaxalone (04-30-2016)
#119
04-30-2016, 09:37 AM
Ok so I got a lot of my parts yesterday and am ready to do some replacing.
Jt, yes I would like some pics of the setup and connections.
Also I was wondering if these would fit on my XJS?
5x4.75
Front 15x8
Rear 15x10
Last edited by Metaxalone; 04-30-2016 at 11:56 PM.
#120
05-01-2016, 12:01 AM
I have the plugs, wires, cap, and arm replaced. Took the AC off to replace the front 4 plugs. The only problem I had was getting to the A6 plug. Broke it gettin it off. played hell puttin the new one in but it is done. Replaced the amp inside the black box with a Flame Thrower Amp.
I just need to know the how to connect the wires to the new single coil setup. Coil installed just need to know what terminals to clip on to.
Also need to know about my request about the wheels I posted in the previous post.
I just need to know the how to connect the wires to the new single coil setup. Coil installed just need to know what terminals to clip on to.
Also need to know about my request about the wheels I posted in the previous post.