oh yes, the MB SBC accumulator. on those cars a dash warning will pop up after a few hundred thousands cycles to indicate you should replace your accumulator.

 

Hi Jagboi64
I was wondering if you have had the chance to fit the new accumulator? I have a 1989 3.6 XJS Coupe with the Teves mk2 braking system on the original accumulator which is now getting tired. I have done some investigation into repacement accumulators, the Jaguar replacement JLM1907 I believe is manufactured by Hydac but it is only available from Jaguar. I also came across the P38 RR (Webco 458 501 921 2) the one which you have purchased but was not quite sure if it would fit both thread wise and physically.
Do you know of anyone who has successfully fitted this accumulator to an XJS?
Thanks!!

 

Not yet. Hopefully the car is coming out of winter storage soon, I just have not had a chance to get out and collect it. I was looking at another car, and I think the Range Rover one will be a very close fit againt the cross brace. Should be doable, but a tight fit.

 

Thanks for the update.
That was also my concern with the cross brace, but I think it will just clear it having taken another look earlier today. If you have the accumulator handy it maybe helpful if you could measure the height and the circumference at the widest point, it looks a little more bulbus than the original type.
Thanks!

 

I put measurements in post 11 above. Identical height, but the RR version is 1/4" larger diameter.

 

Hi Jagboi 64
I have ordered one today looking at the spec it's very close to the jaguar spec

 

That's why I ordered one too!

 

I had seen it about 4-5 weeks ago before coming on here but was not confident enough to take the plunge, but was reassured after reading posts on here, and you ordering it too. I also checked the Jaguar Service Manual and the Range Rover Manual yesterday and called Wabco today and ordered it from the same place as you did Island 4x4 they have had that deal now for at least 4-5 weeks.

 

It will either work or we have both wasted our money! I suspect that the bracket that hold the pump can be bent a bit to deflect the ball away from the brace, the pump isn't rigidly mounted.

I had trouble depressurizing the system, although I followed the manual exactly, I hope it goes well for you.

 

So have you now installed the new one!
Trouble depressurising? When they 20 pumps of the pedal I dont think I could get 20 pumps out of mine the pedal is too hard after 4!
So did the new one pressurise ok?
It's a pity they degrade during storage otherwise you would order a spare. Is there a manufacture date on yours and is there an upper Bar limit stamped on it

 

I have not installed the Range Rover one. After I ordered it, an XJ40 came into the junkyard here with a ball. I took it and tested it, and it had 900psi inside, spec from new is 1200. The one I removed from my car was only 200. I pumped the pedal about 30 times, just to make sire, and it was very tight to remove and when it eventually moved it was still under pressure and I got sprayed with brake fluid and the pressure tore out the O ring. The one that is in there now is 900psi ball and that seems to work fairly well, so I have not changed it. I probably should, but I'm worried about getting brake fluid in my eyes ( like last time).

The RR one was made in 2018 I think (I bought it in 2019), can't remember the bar rating but it was close the Jag one.

 

Hi Woodie

If you can only get 4 Pumps out of the Pedal before it goes hard, why do you need to change the Ball?

Though if you decide to do so anyway you need to be really Careful because if you try and unscrew the Ball while it's still pressurised, the pressure inside that ball is so great that it can cover your whole Car in a Mist of Brake Fluid

Which I know for a fact because it happened to me, where it was Panic Stations with the Garden Hose and Buckets of Water, as there was Brake Fluid everywhere and the whole of the Garage was filled with a Brake Fluid Mist

If you decide to go ahead cover the whole of the Engine Compartment with a Blanket and work underneath it, even when you think the System has been depressurised and cover all exposed Paintwork and have the Garden Hose Standing by with lots of Buckets of Water just in Case

As if things go wrong as they did for me, you won't believe just how bad things can be and if you're really unlucky, that Ball can fly off like a missile!

Have a look at this Thread: Brake Ball Disaster when changing the Accumulator Ball

 

Well 900 psi is quite good I am not surprised to hear it was difficult remove, good info I will definitely wear some safety glasses now. It should be here sometime this week not sure when I will get around to fitting it what with what's going on at the moment.
For some reason I think it's stamped 200 Bar. The Jag is 210 Bar but only operates upto 180 Bar so there is a margin of safety.

 

Hi Orangeblossom
I was just saying 4 pumps of the pedal before it bcomes to hard to pump further in order to depressurise it. The reason I am repacing it is because it's the original ball so over 30 years old plus I only get 1-2 pumps on the pedal before the pump kicks in. When starting the car it takes 40 -50 secs for the pump to stop and 1-2 pumps activates the pump for about 20 secs.
I have been following your posts regarding the depressurising and the bleeding of the low pressure side with all the towels everywhere there is some really excellent info and advice there Thanks!
So now I have mentioned the above what are your thoughts now?

 

I have been thinking that after pumping, I should crack open a brake line to relieve the pressure, and have it wrapped with a rag to contain any leakage. Still have to think that one through further, as it shouldn't be necessary.

 

Hi Woodie

Changing those ***** is a Dangerous Game, so you will need more than Safety Glasses if it all goes wrong but Jagboi's idea looks promising and could be a lot Safer

 

Wasn't it your car that got misted with 1000psi of brake fluid trying to change one out? Makes me cringe for the clearcoat! If it was me doing work on a high pressure system id invest in a roll of plastic 6mm poly and drape it over the paint like a surgical tarp just for the added measure of protection.

bit off topic but after a new ball is fitted you can extend the lifespan of the system by wrapping it in heat reflecting tape or 'Turbo Blanket' material.

I often had the abs (!) Light come on in hot stop and go traffic - with my old radiator doing nothing to help - so I wrapped it in thermal tape quite thick stuff and the random pump warning light at hot temp has been eliminated. On other V12 engines such as the 750il these more sensative components are seperated by plastic barriers which seal when the hood closes.

 

Hi Vancouver XJ6
Yes it was Orangeblossom's car, but after reading the link he supplied if I understood it correctly it did not happen as a result of changing the ball it just happened as he parked the car up after a drive out?? It was a bit of a mystery what actually caused it
Good info there regarding the temperture. I think the ***** are rated and referenced at 200F I guess that V12 generates quite a bit of heat with very little space in there. I only have the small one 3.6
Good advice I will drape the car and engine bay with a plastic dust sheet covered with old sheets and towels, best to be prepared than sorry!

 

Hi Woodie

It happened while I was changing the Ball and very, very, Scary it was too!

 

Hi Orangeblossom
I can well imagine it is not something to experience, good you survived to tell the tale!!
I must have misread the thread or not picked up the whole story