Many Thanks to all on previous threads that have helped me get most of the minor gremlins sorted.

Now, On a right hand bend, under power, it feels like (and sounds like) something plastic is rubbing on the rear RH wheel. I have been told that wheel bearings are reasonably bullet proof, and as the car has only done 61,000miles I am not sure it is this.
I have been told that the drive shafts have covers over them, which sometimes rattle, but wouldn't this happen all the time?

CV Joints - or something more serious?

The rear subframe is not something U have the tools to tackle, and hopefully I'll be taking it to a small specialist in the spring to replace reard discs and have a good look around.

Anything I can check for myself in the mean time?

(Just a thought, the tyres aren't rubbing on anything!)

 

Check the rear exhaust mounts, above the drive shafts.
If the mount has partially or completely gone it will allow the exhaust to drop and contact the drive shafts when the suspension is under compression when cornering.
I have exactly the same problem except that the drive shaft shield is missing on one side (I have no idea why) so it goes 'clackety, clackety, clackety' instead as the UJs **** it.
Hopefully that is all that it is as it's a straight forward fix.
If not then engage in a meaningful relationship with your local bank manager!

 

Steve
Dump the driveshaft UJ shields says I. Mine went 14 years go and no worries, also means you are far more likely to grease the UJs regularly.

If it turns out that your diagnosis is correct about the exhaust fixings on the top of the rear axle cage, you are in for a slight financial shock! The pins on the exhaust pipe poke into a rubber bush held in a metal U bracket on the top inside of the cage. All good so far, the rubber seems practically are indestructable.

The end of the pin fixed to the actual exhaust pipe is threaded and held in with a nut to a bracket welded to the pipe. Also OK so far. BUT, between the pin and the bracket in the exhaust are placed two bakelite top-hat shaped bushes, each smaller than a small thimble. These are there to stop heat being conducted to the pin and from the pin to the rubber bushes on the cage. I was not brave enough to delete these and weld up the pin to the exhaust. The bakelite stuff is not very robust and goes to powder quite easily once it starts being joggled.

So you need four of these, and they came out to about 30 UKPounds !

Greg

 

Or you get some wire and tie it up out of the way pending more important jobs!

 

All understood - if allowed out this weekend, will have a check....

wait wait..... grease the UJ's? Thought my father-in-law was winding me up about that!

For my information (please don't scare me) has anyone done a full rear sub-frame rebuild, bushings, inboard brakes, suspension etc... Any ideas of cost....

 

I have. You need space under cover and NO HURRY. Removing the cage is quite straightforward, more on that if you actually decide to do it. Once out all the bits are easy to get at, providing you do not have the DANA diff (I did!) which makes brake calliper removal more difficult.

Fitting new callipers, discs, servicing the handbrake callipers etc is very straightforward, and redoing the inner fulcrum bearings quite Ok as long as you have all the bits and remember the order of the seals etc etc. The parts book is good to remind you of this. Shocks are easy too once the axle is out. Also remove a few shims from the driveshaft/Disc end where it connects to the diff and get a touch of negative camber on the rear wheels. Anything up to one degree is OK, and makes a huge difference to the rear end traction in corners.

The outer fulcrum bearings are the hardest, as they have to be under preload (ie slightly tight). You have to fit them, measure the slop, and then remove shims to remove the slop plus a bit more. So far so good. The difficulty is reassembling the whole shebang, as the shims, bearings centre tube etc fall out while you are trying to fit them.

However, once done the car will track though corners like a guided missile! You will really notice the difference.
Greg

 

Depending on available finances you can get someone to do it for you.
Grublogger (plus others of course) will supply a complete axle assembly ready to bolt straight in, all nice and shiny.
But look up the definition of 'money pit first'!

 

A rhythmic, creaking noise from a rear wheel area that seems to correspond to wheel rotation speed could be the U-joint itself. Those are actually not too difficult to fix.

 

Thanks all.
Not a rhytmic creaking, only under power going around sharpish right hand bends. If I coast around (foot off the gas) then no noise.

 

Already mentioned.

Grease the half shaft joints. Many a strange noise at the rear of these has been miraculously cured with some grease here.

Remove those tin covers, they scrape/creak/clatter, and that is fact.