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Since a few weeks I'm the happy owner of a 1986 Jaguar XJ-SC V12. I've been reading a bit on the forum and thought it time to register and present myself.
I'm no stranger to classic cars and have a soft spot for British brands. It started with Land Rover, evolved to Lotus with a sidestep to Triumph. I don't own a modern car and in fact hate driving most on offer today.
A Jaguar had been on my bucket list for a long time, with a preference for the V12 and/or XJ-S. This year I had been looking for another classic, not for lack of projects or because of too much spare time, just because it seemed like a fun idea to have something 'new' in the Workshop. I went to see a TVR project (also high on my bucket list!), but hesitated too long and missed it. Then I went to see and drive an XJ-S V12 convertible (US spec) and really liked it, despite some obvious work needed. Before making an offer I looked at some other adverts and came across an auction for a 1986 XJ-SC V12, Euro spec, with only 21 minutes left. Bids were insultingly low so I couldn't resist putting in a cheekish offer myself. I wasn't going to take any risks on a car I hadn't seen. Despite the reserve not being met, the seller agreed to let the car go. :-)
Transport was arranged later that week and the car turned out to be in even better shape than expected. Good bodywork, strong mechanicals, no (obvious) rust and everything seems to work (apart from the dash). A more thorough check and service didn't reveal any nasty surprises. She came with a valid MOT and that has been renewed last week without issues.
Some time was spent sorting out the poor connections in the dash and during one of the many enjoyable testruns I discovered the alternator charge was all over the place. A modified Range Rover alternator was fitted as an upgrade and while in there the non-working AC was removed (simplify and add lightness).
I've loved driving it, the V12 lives up to its reputation of effortless progress and the handling is surprisingly firm and responsive. I had my doubts about the 3-speed slushbox, but we seem to get along just fine. Which is a big surprise, most modern autoboxes really turn me off immediately and I've gone to quite some trouble to change Range Rovers from automatic to manul.
I like it so much, my Esprit that I tend to use as a daily driver has been spending most of the time inside while the XJ-SC is on the road. With the weather improving that is likely to increase even more!
Which does bring me to a few issues I still need to address and for which I hope to get some tips and tricks here.
- the targa roof panels seem to be stuck. I can pull the handles and rotate them about 90°, but I don't see the latches move. And I don't want to force anything! I was thinking of unscrewing the handles and try and operate the mechanisme directly.
- I don't have an owners manual but most things are easy enough to figure out. Luckily I did find some good documents on the Delanair climate control. What I can't figure out, is what the fuel number in the trip computer refers to. When switching from miles to km it seems to change from gallons to liters (as expected), but the number displayed only increases with use. I do know the fuel gauge is not reading correctly, but haven't checked to see if it's the wiring or a problem with the level sender. Does the trip computer use the same sender? Or am I on the wrong track completely?
It would be unfair not the show the lady talked about, so here she is. on the road in her new home making friends
I look forward to browsing the forum and getting to learn more about my and other Jaguars.
The trip computer, as you saw, can be switched from miles to km. As you clearly know, in European countries that use Km, miles per gallon (the higher the number the better the fuel economy) are expressed as "Litres used per hundred Km" - which implies the LOWER the number the better. On the trip computer the button labelled "Fuel" gives a reading of the total amount of fuel used since the trip was last zeroed. The button labelled "Avg" gives the consumption average, in MPG or in litres/100Km.
The trip computer, as you saw, can be switched from miles to km. As you clearly know, in European countries that use Km, miles per gallon (the higher the number the better the fuel economy) are expressed as "Litres used per hundred Km" - which implies the LOWER the number the better. On the trip computer the button labelled "Fuel" gives a reading of the total amount of fuel used since the trip was last zeroed. The button labelled "Avg" gives the consumption average, in MPG or in litres/100Km.
Thanks a lot Greg, that makes so much sense! I was stuck on 'fuel level' and couldn 't understand why it was increasing. Fuel used might be a bit disturbing to watch, but will come in usefull till I fix the level sender.
Grant, I had already started this topix when I saw the dedicated intro section. I'll make a post there as well. Or ask a mod to move this topic.
Welcome to the forum! Is seems you live nearby and have the same model / year car. (mine doesn't lok this nice yet)
W.r.t. the targa roof: since you can still turn the handle, it seems that the latches ars siomply stuck. I woud use a screwdriver to push them back while you have the handle turned. It will help if someone applies some weight on the roof.
Good luck
Great tip Evert, I went out yesterday to have quick look and didn't even need a screwdriver. Just some pressure directly on the latch and it retracted.
So that's my 2 issues solved in the first day on the forum. :-) And thanks again for the warm welcome!
I'm sure there will be more questions over time, it certainly already is fun owning and driving a proper Jaaag.
A few things still on the list (but not stopping me from enjoying the car):
- a slight weep of the rusty coolant expansion tank after a run. I've found new ones at a reasonable price but will try a coating of POR15 or similar first, as it's just a few drops.
- the heater valve is stuck closed. I'm hoping it can be cleaned. If not, replacement should be straight forward. And if I tackle that when I do the expansion tank, I'll only need to drain/fill/bleed once.
- the electrical arial is not working, the motor stalls and blows the fuse. As far as I can tell it was already replaced as the partnr and wiring points to a '89. Might just stick it up halfway and be done with it.
- the driver seat base has some lose seams. No tears, so maybe repairable if I can find someone local. Or is it possible to still get the (original) covers (like for many other British cars)?
- tires: the ones on her, although old, are a nice pattern and in very good shape, obviously hardly used and stored inside. But they're the wrong size, 225/50R16. I know standard fitment was 215/70R15, like the spare. I really like the 2-tone aftermarket rims though, so will keep those. I have found she's a bit tail happy, possibly because of the old rubber. And the smaller diameter makes the speedo read high as expected. I've had a look for 225/60R16 as for later cars, but can't find much. Either some eco-tire, too low a speed rating, ugly design (I can be very picky about tires!) or very expensive, or all of the above. Any recommendations are welcome.
- the rear diff is weeping a bit. Nothing that has me worried and it doesn't seem like an easy fix. But I do want to check the level and top up if needed. Is that even possible without dropping the craddle?
Filip, a few suggestions, and great that you like the car!:
A few things still on the list (but not stopping me from enjoying the car):
- a slight weep of the rusty coolant expansion tank after a run. I've found new ones at a reasonable price but will try a coating of POR15 or similar first, as it's just a few drops. Don't muck about, top condition cooling is essential on these cars, replace it.
- the heater valve is stuck closed. I'm hoping it can be cleaned. If not, replacement should be straight forward. And if I tackle that when I do the expansion tank, I'll only need to drain/fill/bleed once. Again, this cannot be fixed, replace it
- the electrical arial is not working, the motor stalls and blows the fuse. As far as I can tell it was already replaced as the partnr and wiring points to a '89. Might just stick it up halfway and be done with it. Any aftermarket electrical aerial will go in, 30 euros well spent!
- the driver seat base has some lose seams. No tears, so maybe repairable if I can find someone local. Or is it possible to still get the (original) covers (like for many other British cars)? Aldridge Trimming will do you new covers very reasonably, and are very nice people. But the covers can be taken off and easily sewn if the leather is OK: https://www.aldridge.co.uk/
- tires: the ones on her, although old, are a nice pattern and in very good shape, obviously hardly used and stored inside. But they're the wrong size, 225/50R16. I know standard fitment was 215/70R15, like the spare. I really like the 2-tone aftermarket rims though, so will keep those. I have found she's a bit tail happy, possibly because of the old rubber. And the smaller diameter makes the speedo read high as expected. I've had a look for 225/60R16 as for later cars, but can't find much. Either some eco-tire, too low a speed rating, ugly design (I can be very picky about tires!) or very expensive, or all of the above. Any recommendations are welcome. If the rims you have on the car are 16 inch ones (no doubt the spare is the OEM 15 inch) then 225/60 16s are the correct fitment, and as fitted by Jaguar on later cars. I have 16 inch rims and easily finnd well-priced properly rated tyres for it. For example: https://www.allopneus.com/find?activ...ante=&saison=e
Scroll down to the cheaper ones, which i have used for years, they are absolutely fine, eg Riken, Kuhmo.
Your old tyres will be both illegal and dangerous by now, regardless of how they look.
- the rear diff is weeping a bit. Nothing that has me worried and it doesn't seem like an easy fix. But I do want to check the level and top up if needed. Is that even possible without dropping the cradle? Yes, take a look and see if you have a drain plug underneath. If you do,then there will also be a fill plug about 2/3rds of the way up the rear cover of the diff. With difficulty this can just be accessed, made easier by removing the bottom centre plate of the cage structure. Make sure that you can undo the fill plug before draining the diff (Hat tip to Grant Francis' Dad!). Once drained, there are various ways to refill... Post again before actually doing the job and people will no doubt give you their favourite methods.
If no drain plug, post again.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 03-24-2021 at 02:21 AM.
I had a bit of time yesterday evening so did some more work. I'm a fixer, not a buyer, so I couldn't resist trying to free the heater valve. My better halve will appreciate a working heater. :-) Results were promising, it is now moving freely again, defaults to fully open and the connections, though a bit rusty, still allow for a secure connection of the water pipes. Unfortunately, still not much heat. I'll need to flush the heater core, chances are it is clogged up from years of not being used.
A new expansion tank does seem to be the way forward. I don't like sanding and painting anyway. ;-)
For the seats I'll contact a local specialist to do some repairs. The original covers are not bad enough to warrant the expense of new ones. But I am glad I now know of Aldridge!
I also managed to reach the filler on the rear diff, with some contortioning but without taking off the bottom plate. And yes, I always check the filler before draining the oil and give the same tip to my customers. :-) Oil was at the correct level and seemed OK not burnt or anything. I do have a barrel pump for diffs and gearboxes, so filling wont be a problem, even if it's a tight fit. There is drain plug, so that will mean it's a Dana, consistent with the info I found relating to modelyears. To drain I guess you just loosen the rear cover and hope you get it to seal again?
Finally, tyres. In Belgium that's one of the few areas where regulations aren't strict, as long as they look OK and have a minimum of thread they are legal. Which is not to say I don't want to upgrade. It might just take a few more slides to convince me. 😁
Problem is the tires on the XJ-SC now have a really nice V-thread, and most new ones will look very poorly in comparison. I can be really difficult about tyres, I went to great lengths to get BF Goodrich for the Esprit and Mickey Thompson for the Range Rover. I had to import the latter myself, as they don't comply to current EU tyre tests (noise etc) and can't be sold officialy. What I really find unacceptable is the current trend of asymmetrical thread patterns. Especialy as those are never directional, so you always have one side of the car looking wrong. So it's not really the price of new tyres, it's paying for something I don't really like that turns me off. I'll have a closer look again, maybe include 225/55R16.
Take 2, I already typed a lengthy reply, but somehow that didn't get posted it seems.
Thanks for your suggestions Greg.
I'm a fixer, not a buyer, so yesterday when I had a bit of time I couldn't resist having a look at the heater valve. Knowing my better halve would thank me for a working heater. I managed to free the valve, making it move smoothly again and default to open. The connections are a bit rusty still allow a secure fit of the coolant hoses. Unfortunately, still not much heat. I'll try flushing the heater core next, chances are it's clogged up from prolonged no use.
For the expansion tank replacement does seem the way to go. I don't like sanding and painting anyway.
I also had a look at the rear diff. With some contortioning I managed to undo the filler. I always do the filler before the drain as well, and give the same tip to my customers. ;-) The oil was at the correct level and seemed OK, no strange colour or burnt smell.
No drain plug, so the diff will be a Dana, which corresponds to the model year info I found. I guess to drain you loosen the rear cover and hope you get it to seal again? Will deal with that when needed.
Aldridge is another great tip! But I'll contact a local specialist to see if he can repair the seats. They're not in such a shape as to warrant expensive new covers, I'm not aiming for concours condition, just good overall shape and especially driveability.
As for tyres, that's one aspect that's not strictly regulated in belgium. As long as they look OK and have a minimum of thread left, it's legal. But I do agree about the safety aspect, so I’ll have another closer look at what’s available. Maybe include 225/55R16 to widen the choice.
Problem is the tyres on the XJ-SC now have a really nice V-thread, and most new ones will look very poorly in comparison. I can be really difficult about tyres, I went to great lengths to get BF Goodrich for the Esprit and Mickey Thompson for the Range Rover. I had to import the latter myself, as they don't comply to current EU tyre tests (noise etc) and can't be sold officially. What I really find unacceptable is the current trend of asymmetrical thread patterns. Especially as those are never directional, so you always have one side of the car looking wrong. So it’s not really about the price of the tyres, more a hesitation to spend on something I don’t fully like. It might take a few more powerslides to convince me to get new rubber. 😁
Finally, you’ll all be glad to hear that my initial plan to do a bit of work on the Jag, enjoy it during spring/ summer while also putting it up for sale again, is becoming uncertain. As it is now, I like having a V12 as a daily driver . Or maybe I’m getting too old to drive the Esprit every day…
Filip
If you have a drain plug, then you have a GKN/Salibury diff. The DANA does NOT have a drain plug.
As to tyres, it's your car and risk, but old tyres do not grip and they do delaminate remembering this is a 150 mph car and needs to be used!
03-23-2021 | 04:21 AM
New member / owner
I managed to free the valve, making it move smoothly again and default to open. The connections are a bit rusty still allow a secure fit of the coolant hoses. Unfortunately, still not much heat. I'll try flushing the heater core next, chances are it's clogged up from prolonged no use.
