no impulse at injectors
#41
You need a half inch diameter filter or the volume it flows (by gravity) to the pump will be insufficient. Rockauto have a WIX brand one, very cheap, high flow. But, if you are going to do away with the sump tank, I think you should post the system and pipework you are going to adopt for the guys to look at. It is quite easy to mess up the tank breathing, or the vapour recovery system your car will have, if you move from strict OEM.
Greg
Greg
Also on the swirl tank if you have around 1/4 tank and let the idle facing down hill it will suck the swirl tank dry, I had this happen on my driveway.
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JayJagJay (05-13-2018)
#44
My point was, if the swirl tank is removed and you go down a steep hill the engine will quit pretty quickly, the swirl tank will keep it running for a few minutes.
#45
Hmm... I'll have to think about that, then. I've had my tank out, kinda know where the draw is and it's low point.
I've never really noticed or thought about it but are swirl tanks/sumps common on cars? Seems that could be a problem with any car...? I mean, the low point IS the low point in a tank and cars go up and down hills. If the draw point was in the front or rear of the tank, same problem... Difference would only be whether you were headed up or down hill and where the outlet was on the tank.
That's the kinda **** that keeps me up at night, lol.
I've never really noticed or thought about it but are swirl tanks/sumps common on cars? Seems that could be a problem with any car...? I mean, the low point IS the low point in a tank and cars go up and down hills. If the draw point was in the front or rear of the tank, same problem... Difference would only be whether you were headed up or down hill and where the outlet was on the tank.
That's the kinda **** that keeps me up at night, lol.
#46
Hmm... I'll have to think about that, then. I've had my tank out, kinda know where the draw is and it's low point.
I've never really noticed or thought about it but are swirl tanks/sumps common on cars? Seems that could be a problem with any car...? I mean, the low point IS the low point in a tank and cars go up and down hills. If the draw point was in the front or rear of the tank, same problem... Difference would only be whether you were headed up or down hill and where the outlet was on the tank.
I've never really noticed or thought about it but are swirl tanks/sumps common on cars? Seems that could be a problem with any car...? I mean, the low point IS the low point in a tank and cars go up and down hills. If the draw point was in the front or rear of the tank, same problem... Difference would only be whether you were headed up or down hill and where the outlet was on the tank.
Your fuel outlet is centre bottom rear of your tank, below the gauge sender, and is clearly visible.
In your position, I would keep the car 100% OEM from the fuel system pint of view until you have everything on the car 100% right and running properly. After that you can change things, but if you do so now you have a good chance of introducing odd faults you will have trouble finding. FWIW, I would not run without a swirl tank, as I frequently have far less than 1/4 tank of fuel in the car - fuel prices are just horrifying here, now, and I am retired!
The following 3 users liked this post by Greg in France:
#47
+++ what Greg/Warren said.
Ours are like chalk and cheese to your car and the market legal requirements you are forced to adhere to.
Mine was out of necessity, it was the DD and had fuel weeping from holes in the sump tank. So, I did what I did just because I could.
Warrens 1/4 tank and downhill running is real, and YES, I did get caught out at first. Only once, coz I learn real quick.
Tank venting here is not policed in any way, so the small hole in the cap, and plugging all the other stuff is "normal".
I 100% agree with Greg about getting it running as it should before "cut and shut" takes place, or you will chase your tail forever, and then give up on the whole thing.
Mine was running as expected, so I knew if I screwed up when removing something, if it did not run proper, so put that back, rethink the process, and so on. I would never deviate from the tried and true of OE if it was running badly, that is simple a suicide path, NOT you, the CAR.
Think hard and long, before altering anything.
Ours are like chalk and cheese to your car and the market legal requirements you are forced to adhere to.
Mine was out of necessity, it was the DD and had fuel weeping from holes in the sump tank. So, I did what I did just because I could.
Warrens 1/4 tank and downhill running is real, and YES, I did get caught out at first. Only once, coz I learn real quick.
Tank venting here is not policed in any way, so the small hole in the cap, and plugging all the other stuff is "normal".
I 100% agree with Greg about getting it running as it should before "cut and shut" takes place, or you will chase your tail forever, and then give up on the whole thing.
Mine was running as expected, so I knew if I screwed up when removing something, if it did not run proper, so put that back, rethink the process, and so on. I would never deviate from the tried and true of OE if it was running badly, that is simple a suicide path, NOT you, the CAR.
Think hard and long, before altering anything.
The following 2 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
Greg in France (05-15-2018),
orangeblossom (05-15-2018)
#48
Hmm... I'll have to think about that, then. I've had my tank out, kinda know where the draw is and it's low point.
I've never really noticed or thought about it but are swirl tanks/sumps common on cars? Seems that could be a problem with any car...? I mean, the low point IS the low point in a tank and cars go up and down hills. If the draw point was in the front or rear of the tank, same problem... Difference would only be whether you were headed up or down hill and where the outlet was on the tank.
That's the kinda **** that keeps me up at night, lol.
I've never really noticed or thought about it but are swirl tanks/sumps common on cars? Seems that could be a problem with any car...? I mean, the low point IS the low point in a tank and cars go up and down hills. If the draw point was in the front or rear of the tank, same problem... Difference would only be whether you were headed up or down hill and where the outlet was on the tank.
That's the kinda **** that keeps me up at night, lol.
Lovin the way you rap, always has me in stitches (Lol)
But you've got 'The wrong end of the stick' as with the Swirl Pot or Sump Tank, there is 'No up or down', as the Sump Tank is always Full to the Brim and kept that way by Gravity feeding Gas to it from the Main Petrol Tank
So providing that you don't run out of Gas in the Main Tank, the Sump Tank will always be full and that will make sure that going up Hill or even down Hill, the Engine will never be Starved of Fuel for that reason
So you Really, Really, need to do what Greg and Grant has told you and put that Sump Tank Back, even though its a bit of a PIA job but once its done and dusted then you will be good to go for a very long time, so don't cut corners on that one, do it right!
And then you can find something else to keep you awake!
Last edited by orangeblossom; 05-15-2018 at 06:27 PM.
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Grant Francis (05-16-2018)
#49
Fitted a new filter, put 20lts of fuel in the tank, switched the ignition on and off a dozen or more times, cranked it, nothing.
Thought I would bleed the system, fitted a bleed pipe what I thought was the out let pipe, only to find the fuel went the other way
Fitted the pipe to the correct hose and bleed out about a liter of fuel
When I tried to start it a few days ago, it did start and run before it died, now it dose nothing.
The guy across the road heard me cranking the engine, so he came over, he checked to see if he could feel the pump working, which he could, I knew it was, or I wouldn’t have been able to bleed it.
He then gave it a scut with a spanner, the engine fired, he kept scuting it and the engine kept running
It wasn’t running properly, had a miss
It was doing about 2000rpm for a while until he stopped and then the engine stopped
So now it’s a new pump
Thought I would bleed the system, fitted a bleed pipe what I thought was the out let pipe, only to find the fuel went the other way
Fitted the pipe to the correct hose and bleed out about a liter of fuel
When I tried to start it a few days ago, it did start and run before it died, now it dose nothing.
The guy across the road heard me cranking the engine, so he came over, he checked to see if he could feel the pump working, which he could, I knew it was, or I wouldn’t have been able to bleed it.
He then gave it a scut with a spanner, the engine fired, he kept scuting it and the engine kept running
It wasn’t running properly, had a miss
It was doing about 2000rpm for a while until he stopped and then the engine stopped
So now it’s a new pump
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Grant Francis (05-21-2018)
#51
Hi Bro
Lovin the way you rap, always has me in stitches (Lol)
But you've got 'The wrong end of the stick' as with the Swirl Pot or Sump Tank, there is 'No up or down', as the Sump Tank is always Full to the Brim and kept that way by Gravity feeding Gas to it from the Main Petrol Tank
So providing that you don't run out of Gas in the Main Tank, the Sump Tank will always be full and that will make sure that going up Hill or even down Hill, the Engine will never be Starved of Fuel for that reason
So you Really, Really, need to do what Greg and Grant has told you and put that Sump Tank Back, even though its a bit of a PIA job but once its done and dusted then you will be good to goooo.
Lovin the way you rap, always has me in stitches (Lol)
But you've got 'The wrong end of the stick' as with the Swirl Pot or Sump Tank, there is 'No up or down', as the Sump Tank is always Full to the Brim and kept that way by Gravity feeding Gas to it from the Main Petrol Tank
So providing that you don't run out of Gas in the Main Tank, the Sump Tank will always be full and that will make sure that going up Hill or even down Hill, the Engine will never be Starved of Fuel for that reason
So you Really, Really, need to do what Greg and Grant has told you and put that Sump Tank Back, even though its a bit of a PIA job but once its done and dusted then you will be good to goooo.
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orangeblossom (05-20-2018)
#54
i have about 2.5 bar, 38lb fuel pressure
The jag agent recons it should be 28/32lb
I think hitting it with a spanner was just a coincidence.
This morning, it would fire but would not start, gave it some areostart and got it running at 600rpm foot flat down
After some time the reves started to clime and got to 4000rpm
Now it starts ok but it is running on about 9 / 10 cylinders
Smoke started to come from somewhere down the left rear of the engine
That’s the area where the fire was.
So now I need to work on that first
The jag agent recons it should be 28/32lb
I think hitting it with a spanner was just a coincidence.
This morning, it would fire but would not start, gave it some areostart and got it running at 600rpm foot flat down
After some time the reves started to clime and got to 4000rpm
Now it starts ok but it is running on about 9 / 10 cylinders
Smoke started to come from somewhere down the left rear of the engine
That’s the area where the fire was.
So now I need to work on that first
Last edited by knares; 05-21-2018 at 12:27 AM.
#55
#57
The black is the earth, so that is correct. The green wire is on the warning light terminal. I have forgotten if the light is the green or brown, but I think the green is correct. To be sure, remove the green wire from the terminal and apply 12v to it, and see if the low fuel light comes illuminates on the dash (ignition on).
A poorly reading gauge is likely to be both the sender starting to fail and the connections within the cluster to the gauge being poor. The Great Palm is very good on how to fix the dash minor gauges electrical pathways.
Greg
A poorly reading gauge is likely to be both the sender starting to fail and the connections within the cluster to the gauge being poor. The Great Palm is very good on how to fix the dash minor gauges electrical pathways.
Greg
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knares (05-21-2018)
#58
#60
Can be bypassed. Just connect vacuum from intakes directly to the port FPR.
Last edited by JigJag; 05-22-2018 at 01:57 PM.
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knares (05-22-2018)