I would not put a filter before the pump if it cloggs then the pump will run dry = 1 dead pump.

Also on the swirl tank if you have around 1/4 tank and let the idle facing down hill it will suck the swirl tank dry, I had this happen on my driveway.

 

thanks warr and greg... always get lots of good information here.

warr - i guess that could happen no matter what, with less than a 1/4 tank...?

 

removed the filter, it was clean so I just put it back, nice to know though

 

My point was, if the swirl tank is removed and you go down a steep hill the engine will quit pretty quickly, the swirl tank will keep it running for a few minutes.

 

Hmm... I'll have to think about that, then. I've had my tank out, kinda know where the draw is and it's low point.

I've never really noticed or thought about it but are swirl tanks/sumps common on cars? Seems that could be a problem with any car...? I mean, the low point IS the low point in a tank and cars go up and down hills. If the draw point was in the front or rear of the tank, same problem... Difference would only be whether you were headed up or down hill and where the outlet was on the tank.

That's the kinda **** that keeps me up at night, lol.

 

Swirl tanks (ie small tanks below the main tank to ensure the FI pump and the engine does not get starved of fuel on long corners etc) are a must if you have a wide flat tank (we do). More modern tanks have internal pumps with baffled "wells" in them to achieve the same thing.
Your fuel outlet is centre bottom rear of your tank, below the gauge sender, and is clearly visible.
In your position, I would keep the car 100% OEM from the fuel system pint of view until you have everything on the car 100% right and running properly. After that you can change things, but if you do so now you have a good chance of introducing odd faults you will have trouble finding. FWIW, I would not run without a swirl tank, as I frequently have far less than 1/4 tank of fuel in the car - fuel prices are just horrifying here, now, and I am retired!

 

+++ what Greg/Warren said.

Ours are like chalk and cheese to your car and the market legal requirements you are forced to adhere to.

Mine was out of necessity, it was the DD and had fuel weeping from holes in the sump tank. So, I did what I did just because I could.

Warrens 1/4 tank and downhill running is real, and YES, I did get caught out at first. Only once, coz I learn real quick.

Tank venting here is not policed in any way, so the small hole in the cap, and plugging all the other stuff is "normal".

I 100% agree with Greg about getting it running as it should before "cut and shut" takes place, or you will chase your tail forever, and then give up on the whole thing.

Mine was running as expected, so I knew if I screwed up when removing something, if it did not run proper, so put that back, rethink the process, and so on. I would never deviate from the tried and true of OE if it was running badly, that is simple a suicide path, NOT you, the CAR.

Think hard and long, before altering anything.

 

Hi Bro

Lovin the way you rap, always has me in stitches (Lol)

But you've got 'The wrong end of the stick' as with the Swirl Pot or Sump Tank, there is 'No up or down', as the Sump Tank is always Full to the Brim and kept that way by Gravity feeding Gas to it from the Main Petrol Tank

So providing that you don't run out of Gas in the Main Tank, the Sump Tank will always be full and that will make sure that going up Hill or even down Hill, the Engine will never be Starved of Fuel for that reason

So you Really, Really, need to do what Greg and Grant has told you and put that Sump Tank Back, even though its a bit of a PIA job but once its done and dusted then you will be good to go for a very long time, so don't cut corners on that one, do it right!

And then you can find something else to keep you awake!

 

Fitted a new filter, put 20lts of fuel in the tank, switched the ignition on and off a dozen or more times, cranked it, nothing.
Thought I would bleed the system, fitted a bleed pipe what I thought was the out let pipe, only to find the fuel went the other way
Fitted the pipe to the correct hose and bleed out about a liter of fuel
When I tried to start it a few days ago, it did start and run before it died, now it dose nothing.
The guy across the road heard me cranking the engine, so he came over, he checked to see if he could feel the pump working, which he could, I knew it was, or I wouldn’t have been able to bleed it.
He then gave it a scut with a spanner, the engine fired, he kept scuting it and the engine kept running
It wasn’t running properly, had a miss
It was doing about 2000rpm for a while until he stopped and then the engine stopped
So now it’s a new pump

 

Pardon,,,, but what is scutting? Seems like a needful thing to know.

sorry for your troubles. wish I could add something that would help.

at least the pumps aren't super hard to git to, or so costly!?

 

ah nah man, OB... I never took it out. I've had it out once to clean... Was just a wonder and a question I had. After hearing what I heard, I fully intend on leaving it AND, as suggested, leaving things OEM, at least for the 13yrs it takes me to everthin right. Then, I'll spend the next 13 making changes, lol....

 

Sorry, Scut it

He hit it with a spanner

 

All you guys and your TECHNICAL terms, lol. Help a Brotha out!

 

i have about 2.5 bar, 38lb fuel pressure
The jag agent recons it should be 28/32lb

I think hitting it with a spanner was just a coincidence.
This morning, it would fire but would not start, gave it some areostart and got it running at 600rpm foot flat down
After some time the reves started to clime and got to 4000rpm
Now it starts ok but it is running on about 9 / 10 cylinders
Smoke started to come from somewhere down the left rear of the engine
That’s the area where the fire was.

So now I need to work on that first

 

i know
Its broken, but what’s its purpose,
I assume that if the pressure control valve is leaking, it will transfer the fuel in to the inlet manifold but why do we have a fitting like this

 

my fuel gauge is reading wrong, dose anyone know if the wires are on correctly
i know i have a lot of questions
thanks
thanks

 

The black is the earth, so that is correct. The green wire is on the warning light terminal. I have forgotten if the light is the green or brown, but I think the green is correct. To be sure, remove the green wire from the terminal and apply 12v to it, and see if the low fuel light comes illuminates on the dash (ignition on).
A poorly reading gauge is likely to be both the sender starting to fail and the connections within the cluster to the gauge being poor. The Great Palm is very good on how to fix the dash minor gauges electrical pathways.
Greg

 

Gave it a start this morning, it started no trouble, very slugage, lots of smoke from the exhaust, never did that before, perhaps another cylinder coming on line

 

Hello Greg... More than once I have heard you mention "the great palm" but have no idea what that is or where to find the info you speak of. Whats,,, the great palm?

 

I believe this is your fuel rails temperature activated vacuum valve. Normally open it passes vacuum to the port fuel pressure regulator. When hot, it vents to atmosphere. This causes the FPR to increase pressure. The higher pressure decreases the likelihood of fuel in the rail boiling.

Can be bypassed. Just connect vacuum from intakes directly to the port FPR.