XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Noise from front right... sounds like woodpecker under throttle.

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Old 04-22-2021, 07:14 PM
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Default Noise from front right... sounds like woodpecker under throttle.

I redid the trans-mount last summer to cure what is a knocking sound on throttle. The noise seemed to dim a bit but is still there.m, especially it seems if turning onto a road while accelerating from a stop. Are there any other pieces that could make a nice hard woodpecker knock? Definitely throttle/engine/vibration related. It really seems further up front right than underneath the center of the car where one would think the trans mount knocking would be. Any help would help.
 
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Old 04-22-2021, 08:08 PM
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I had an issue like that. Sound occurred most expectedly when making left hand turns from a stoplight.

Turned out one of the engine mounts were bad. Appeared fine, but had delaminates so when the engine torqued itself it would just lose contact with the frame to cause some chatter.
 
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Old 04-22-2021, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Vee
I had an issue like that. Sound occurred most expectedly when making left hand turns from a stoplight.

Turned out one of the engine mounts were bad. Appeared fine, but had delaminates so when the engine torqued itself it would just lose contact with the frame to cause some chatter.
thats exactly like mine... left from a light is the loudest! I looked at the right motor mount from a distance just to make sure it was at least there. Well, how big of a pain is this going to be?
 
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Old 04-23-2021, 12:33 PM
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I had this exact situation and noise. After rebuilding the rear cage, it disappeared. This included springs, shocks, diff fluid change and cage mounts.
 
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Old 04-23-2021, 12:38 PM
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I ordered a set of engine mounts. I’ve always had a feeling that that was probably the issue but now we’re gonna find out
 
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Old 04-23-2021, 08:02 PM
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It’s not terribly difficult.

I changed both too, but the drivers side was the one that was delaminated. Looked fine visually.

You’ll simply need to jack up the engine from below. The bolts are not easy, but not difficult to get to. There are nuts on the underside of the bolts that you won’t see. You can get to them by feel though. Once loose, you can jack the engine up enough to replace the mount.

MHC7521AA and MHC7522, right?
 
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Old 04-23-2021, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Vee
It’s not terribly difficult.

I changed both too, but the drivers side was the one that was delaminated. Looked fine visually.

You’ll simply need to jack up the engine from below. The bolts are not easy, but not difficult to get to. There are nuts on the underside of the bolts that you won’t see. You can get to them by feel though. Once loose, you can jack the engine up enough to replace the mount.

MHC7521AA and MHC7522, right?
yeah, that’s easy enough. Well, until you get in there and round that nut off. Ha
i went with the cheapo uro. 👍🏼

 
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Old 04-23-2021, 11:17 PM
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You can test your eng mounts by popping the hood, 1st gear brake ON and rev the engine...it should not lift off at all, infact you should be able to balance a large coin on a running engine or a fine wine glass with ease.
 
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Old 04-23-2021, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by VancouverXJ6
You can test your eng mounts by popping the hood, 1st gear brake ON and rev the engine...it should not lift off at all, infact you should be able to balance a large coin on a running engine or a fine wine glass with ease.
i did that today, actually. Engine almost spun 😆. No but it did lift fairly substantially.
 
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Old 04-24-2021, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 944xjs
i did that today, actually. Engine almost spun 😆. No but it did lift fairly substantially.
Mounts are done then, my car had this once and there is a hood dent to prove it haha, also from personal experience avoid URÖ mounts. Junk.
 
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Old 04-25-2021, 08:56 AM
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I have used URO before....not nearly as bad as MTC. That was bad.

OEM rubber is substantially better than all aftermarket. If it’s easy to get to, like these, it’s not the end of the world to save money and use URO parts. If they fail again, you won’t be paying a shop for their time, so it’s a low risk situation.
 
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Old 04-25-2021, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Vee
I have used URO before....not nearly as bad as MTC. That was bad.

OEM rubber is substantially better than all aftermarket. If it’s easy to get to, like these, it’s not the end of the world to save money and use URO parts. If they fail again, you won’t be paying a shop for their time, so it’s a low risk situation.
Yeah I’m not terribly worried about uro parts. I’ve used many in the past. I’m sure the oem is better but for the savings I can get a new speedometer transducer.
 
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