Noise from front right... sounds like woodpecker under throttle.
#1
Noise from front right... sounds like woodpecker under throttle.
I redid the trans-mount last summer to cure what is a knocking sound on throttle. The noise seemed to dim a bit but is still there.m, especially it seems if turning onto a road while accelerating from a stop. Are there any other pieces that could make a nice hard woodpecker knock? Definitely throttle/engine/vibration related. It really seems further up front right than underneath the center of the car where one would think the trans mount knocking would be. Any help would help.
#2
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Doug (04-22-2021)
#3
I had an issue like that. Sound occurred most expectedly when making left hand turns from a stoplight.
Turned out one of the engine mounts were bad. Appeared fine, but had delaminates so when the engine torqued itself it would just lose contact with the frame to cause some chatter.
Turned out one of the engine mounts were bad. Appeared fine, but had delaminates so when the engine torqued itself it would just lose contact with the frame to cause some chatter.
#6
It’s not terribly difficult.
I changed both too, but the drivers side was the one that was delaminated. Looked fine visually.
You’ll simply need to jack up the engine from below. The bolts are not easy, but not difficult to get to. There are nuts on the underside of the bolts that you won’t see. You can get to them by feel though. Once loose, you can jack the engine up enough to replace the mount.
MHC7521AA and MHC7522, right?
I changed both too, but the drivers side was the one that was delaminated. Looked fine visually.
You’ll simply need to jack up the engine from below. The bolts are not easy, but not difficult to get to. There are nuts on the underside of the bolts that you won’t see. You can get to them by feel though. Once loose, you can jack the engine up enough to replace the mount.
MHC7521AA and MHC7522, right?
#7
It’s not terribly difficult.
I changed both too, but the drivers side was the one that was delaminated. Looked fine visually.
You’ll simply need to jack up the engine from below. The bolts are not easy, but not difficult to get to. There are nuts on the underside of the bolts that you won’t see. You can get to them by feel though. Once loose, you can jack the engine up enough to replace the mount.
MHC7521AA and MHC7522, right?
I changed both too, but the drivers side was the one that was delaminated. Looked fine visually.
You’ll simply need to jack up the engine from below. The bolts are not easy, but not difficult to get to. There are nuts on the underside of the bolts that you won’t see. You can get to them by feel though. Once loose, you can jack the engine up enough to replace the mount.
MHC7521AA and MHC7522, right?
i went with the cheapo uro. 👍🏼
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#11
I have used URO before....not nearly as bad as MTC. That was bad.
OEM rubber is substantially better than all aftermarket. If it’s easy to get to, like these, it’s not the end of the world to save money and use URO parts. If they fail again, you won’t be paying a shop for their time, so it’s a low risk situation.
OEM rubber is substantially better than all aftermarket. If it’s easy to get to, like these, it’s not the end of the world to save money and use URO parts. If they fail again, you won’t be paying a shop for their time, so it’s a low risk situation.
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944xjs (04-25-2021)
#12
I have used URO before....not nearly as bad as MTC. That was bad.
OEM rubber is substantially better than all aftermarket. If it’s easy to get to, like these, it’s not the end of the world to save money and use URO parts. If they fail again, you won’t be paying a shop for their time, so it’s a low risk situation.
OEM rubber is substantially better than all aftermarket. If it’s easy to get to, like these, it’s not the end of the world to save money and use URO parts. If they fail again, you won’t be paying a shop for their time, so it’s a low risk situation.
The following users liked this post:
Vee (04-25-2021)
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