oil change
#2
#3
I own a 96 XJS with the 4.0
I use Mobil 0w40 all year round. I used to alternate with Mobil1's 15w50, but I've simplified.
I try to stick with Mann Filters.
I use Mobil 0w40 all year round. I used to alternate with Mobil1's 15w50, but I've simplified.
I try to stick with Mann Filters.
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#8
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#9
I don't think it existed when they created the chart.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XJS/12-58.pdf
Basically 40 and 50 weight oils are what seems to work best. The number before the "w" only refers to cold viscosity when starting. Ideally I was running 40 in the winter and 50 in the summer.
I live in DC, although we get hot weather, I figure 40 is good enough all year round.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XJS/12-58.pdf
Basically 40 and 50 weight oils are what seems to work best. The number before the "w" only refers to cold viscosity when starting. Ideally I was running 40 in the winter and 50 in the summer.
I live in DC, although we get hot weather, I figure 40 is good enough all year round.
#10
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#11
0 weight when cold allows the oil to flow easier. Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the oil is a 40 weight. Hence 0w40.
Is there a disadvantage to having an oil lube an engine quicker when cold?
#12
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I would suggest reading up on what that number stands for. Once learned, you'll realize that you're actually more concerned about the 30 number than the other one.
0 weight when cold allows the oil to flow easier. Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the oil is a 40 weight. Hence 0w40.
Is there a disadvantage to having an oil lube an engine quicker when cold?
0 weight when cold allows the oil to flow easier. Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the oil is a 40 weight. Hence 0w40.
Is there a disadvantage to having an oil lube an engine quicker when cold?
Given Jag's caution about using 0Wx oils in warmer weather and requiring full synthetics if it is used, vs. unrestricted use of 5Wx, I see no advantage in using any 0Wx.
#14
In the link I sent you regarding Jaguar's recommendations on oil viscosities, the 0w notes seem to include the 5w as well.
Keep in mind that those notes are over 20 years old. Twenty. I think the synthetics of 1995 are different than what you can buy in 2015.
In the end, use whatever you are comfortable using.
Keep in mind that those notes are over 20 years old. Twenty. I think the synthetics of 1995 are different than what you can buy in 2015.
In the end, use whatever you are comfortable using.
#15
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Nothing special or exotic required....although you can go as fancy/expensive as you care to for the feel good factor.
I used conventional 10/30 and 10/40 (whatever name brand was on sale) in my AJ16 engine with NAPA, Jaguar, AC Delco, and Baldwin filters.
5000 mile service interval
When I sold the car at 170,000 miles the engine was still running sweet as a nut
Cheers
DD
#16
In the UK, most of us use 10w-40 semi-synthetic as originally recommended by Jaguar. As most cars are carefully used and don't cover 30,000 miles a year any more, the frequency of oil change to mileage means you won't really need the long-scale protection of full synthetic.
I also use genuine Jaguar filters, because they don't cost much more than after-market. So, I trust the quality of the filter and one day I'll sell the car and the prospective purchase will look at the car, see the filter and think "Ah, it's been well-maintained"!
Just my opinion....
Cheers
Paul
I also use genuine Jaguar filters, because they don't cost much more than after-market. So, I trust the quality of the filter and one day I'll sell the car and the prospective purchase will look at the car, see the filter and think "Ah, it's been well-maintained"!
Just my opinion....
Cheers
Paul
#17
#18
Not familiar with the spark plug debate....however I did have one Champion plug explode while driving....it had less than 10,000 miles on it.
Came out easily, but caused a bunch of problems. I'm now a NGK guy now. Most spark plug manufacturers have not revised the Recommended Plug spec from Jag's TSB when they switched from Champion RC9YCC to RC12YCC, so plan accordingly. (NGK should be a "5" spec plug, not the "6" typically recommended as an OE substitute)
Oh, and I used to have a leaper. After about a year, I decided that the growler was a better fit for the car, but that's my opinion.
Came out easily, but caused a bunch of problems. I'm now a NGK guy now. Most spark plug manufacturers have not revised the Recommended Plug spec from Jag's TSB when they switched from Champion RC9YCC to RC12YCC, so plan accordingly. (NGK should be a "5" spec plug, not the "6" typically recommended as an OE substitute)
Oh, and I used to have a leaper. After about a year, I decided that the growler was a better fit for the car, but that's my opinion.
Last edited by Vee; 12-20-2015 at 04:46 PM.
#19
I will say this about the 0W red herring ...
The cold API rating is specified at a specific temperature. And, the 0Wxx for any xx
implies a curve when graphed.
Saying you cannot use 0Wxx because of a warning about 0W30 is a complete crock.
Why? Because the 0W only relates to cold cranking. Cold is relative unless of course
someone is seriously suggesting that a specific vehicle is always started at xx degrees.
In real life, people go to the store, shut it down, then start it up again after various
lengths of time in various prevailing temperatures ... all without waiting for some
magic temperature that matches the oil in the sump at the time.
In the relevant ranges, the viscosity graphs are quite similar, it is farther up in
temperatures where they start to diverge. Anyone can do these graphs, just
search on widman. Real science is interesting ... pseudo scientific pronouncements
are boring.
Having said that, NJ does not see temperatures where 15W40 Shell Rotella would
not be an excellent choice. In fact, unless the car is going on a trip to AK before
the next oil change, it can be drive anywhere in the US on 15W40.
The cold API rating is specified at a specific temperature. And, the 0Wxx for any xx
implies a curve when graphed.
Saying you cannot use 0Wxx because of a warning about 0W30 is a complete crock.
Why? Because the 0W only relates to cold cranking. Cold is relative unless of course
someone is seriously suggesting that a specific vehicle is always started at xx degrees.
In real life, people go to the store, shut it down, then start it up again after various
lengths of time in various prevailing temperatures ... all without waiting for some
magic temperature that matches the oil in the sump at the time.
In the relevant ranges, the viscosity graphs are quite similar, it is farther up in
temperatures where they start to diverge. Anyone can do these graphs, just
search on widman. Real science is interesting ... pseudo scientific pronouncements
are boring.
Having said that, NJ does not see temperatures where 15W40 Shell Rotella would
not be an excellent choice. In fact, unless the car is going on a trip to AK before
the next oil change, it can be drive anywhere in the US on 15W40.
Last edited by plums; 12-20-2015 at 05:15 PM.
#20
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Real science is interesting ...
In real life the entire 'what oil' discussion is almost totally academic and there's no practical need for science to even enter the conversation.
Except for changing to a lighter oil if you'll be in sub-freezing conditions there's almost no way to go wrong. Pick something out of the owners manual that covers the temp range you're operating in and go buy some oil. For most older engines like AJ16s it'll probably be 10/30 or 10/40. If synthetic makes you feel good, go for it. If not, don't.
I can personally attest that the world is plumb full of cars that are running sweet as can be at 150k, 200k, 250k miles with the owners giving no more consideration as to the type, brand, and weight of motor oil than I give to deciding what color socks to put on tomorrow morning You'd have to go seriously off track to hurt your engine....especially a rugged old dog like an AJ16. You could put darn near anything in 'em and not hurt 'em ! And, besides, most of these old Jags like XJSs are putt-putted around like they were made out of glass, accumulate little annual mileage, and the oil changed at needlessly short intervals. The oil is not being challenged, so to speak.
Cheers
DD