Those loovers a great. Are they custom or welded in. I'm gonna need to add them to my ride.

I was under the assumption the 6.0L used a modern one piece rms not the leaky rope type.
-pages 101 of the XJS bible.

Perhaps you have excessive crank case pressure forcing oil out of the seal.
-Page 52 of the XJS bible.

 

@ronbros

Do you have any additional photos of the red XJ-S with the 6.0? especially engine bay, oil cooler...

Thanks!!

 

Just done it and gone for a run. FWIW I think it made a distinct difference, in that the main fan did not seem to cut in as much as it would have normally in slow traffic. I could see where the rubber was actually making contact with the bonnet, and removed all the rest, leaving about a 6 inch strip each end of the bulkhead.

When ticking over stationary, electric fan on, bonnet closed, I could feel quite definite airflow out of the end bonnet/valence gap. So at speed with higher air pressure it would roar out I would have thought. Must be helping, that is for sure. Thanks for the idea AL

Greg

 

Can you take a photo to show what it looks like without the rubber? Thanks.

 

XJSF

Here they are, I was just going to take a pic for something else. As you can see, I could see the marks on the grey NATO paint I have on the inside of the bonnet, so i just left about 6 inches of rubber edging on the gutter opposite where the marks were. Say you get 1/2 inch gap over a 4 feet length, that is an outlet slot of 48" x 0.5" = 24 square inches !








I thought about cutting down a section of the gutter to give an even bigger slot, but then rain would pour into the engine and electrics instead of draining off to the sides - so I decided not to do that ! Absolutely no rattles bangs or flapping.

The racing XJS TWR guy in his book said that getting air OUT of the engine bay was just as vital to the cooling as getting it in. So this must help. Not just cooling the actual angine, but also the electrics, wiring cooking, etc etc.
Greg

 

i was talking about 2 different cars.

the red one is a friend, 94 6.0L installed in it.

mine has a modded 1978 5.3L(with rope seal) complete engine overhaul and some extra time spent on rear seal,, was fine for about 2000 miles then slowly started to leak,as in Scott Allen book, it is considered NORMAL,for rope seal engines.
i slowed leak down by increasing crankcase vacuum, to much work to fix it so i'll live with it.

pic of my hood seal, chrome plastic door edge,cut to length, vents out very well, 100F days here in Texas and car runs 185F all day long, i have a digital temp readout, reads in 2* changes!

 

sorry wrong pic(cant believe that pic is 8-10yrs old.

pix of chrome plastic door edge material, cut to length, works great have about 3/8" between it and hood,vents out well, did notice kept temps more stable.

 

icsa. he had the hood sent to Bob Tullius shop in Sebring FL. and the punched them into the factory hood,albeit carefully.

 

Oil does something like 80/90% of the MAJOR COOLING So yes it is veryy important unfortunately they are detuned unless its a german car . But it still serces its purpose. On my car i drew up plans too retro fit it too actually run like a true system not just bypass ,i also put the lister bumpers and side skirts on it removed the fans for straight electric ones and freed up the space moving the horns and several other componets lately ive been busting my *ss on building a fiberglass cowl hood an luvers as well .

 

ok. Thanks to ALL! I will keep the oil cooler in place, with new hoses. What I really need to do is leave the hood off!! Ha ha. Anyway, thanks for all the comments amd expertise, You all keep me going on this project!

 

Has anyone ever put vents behind the fron tires too draw air from the engine bay out quicker? I want too do it too mine in the near future . I can see this dropping the air temperature drastically inside the engine bay .this combined with full flow oil cooling (separate Electronic pump) and a few tricks form the xjs bible it should be a content cat in standing traffic or track conditions.