Ok, so I guess it must be ignition and not trans??
#41
02-20-2018, 03:44 AM
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#43
03-02-2018, 05:35 PM
#45
03-03-2018, 09:26 AM
it was charging very low since I bought it a year ago and then it was just dead... I went to drive it to storage before winter and it died on the road. It's charging like 14.3v at idle now. But yeah the advance is getting done as soon as I can.
#46
07-18-2018, 10:50 PM
Just a quick update... most have gotten lucky the day it revved to redline cause it only wants to get to about 4500 still. I did a test yesterday and I’m only getting 82mph in second at 4500rpm then it bucks like a bronco! I need to get some distributor advance springs and get in there and fix it.
Anyone know where to get advance springs??
Anyone know where to get advance springs??
#48
07-19-2018, 09:13 AM
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Well, this is from afar.
1. The engine timing is not working properly. One or both of the advance mechanisms is not there. Vacum and/or mechanical, the latter works via centrigugal force.
2. No snap back is as clear as can be the timing isn't at optimum.
3. One can use a strobe light. the advance one to read degrees that the engine fires at differing RPM's.
4. Until the distributor is either replaced with a good one or fixed, the engine will not run at its best ,
Carl
1. The engine timing is not working properly. One or both of the advance mechanisms is not there. Vacum and/or mechanical, the latter works via centrigugal force.
2. No snap back is as clear as can be the timing isn't at optimum.
3. One can use a strobe light. the advance one to read degrees that the engine fires at differing RPM's.
4. Until the distributor is either replaced with a good one or fixed, the engine will not run at its best ,
Carl
#49
07-19-2018, 03:45 PM
Well, this is from afar.
1. The engine timing is not working properly. One or both of the advance mechanisms is not there. Vacum and/or mechanical, the latter works via centrigugal force.
2. No snap back is as clear as can be the timing isn't at optimum.
3. One can use a strobe light. the advance one to read degrees that the engine fires at differing RPM's.
4. Until the distributor is either replaced with a good one or fixed, the engine will not run at its best ,
Carl
1. The engine timing is not working properly. One or both of the advance mechanisms is not there. Vacum and/or mechanical, the latter works via centrigugal force.
2. No snap back is as clear as can be the timing isn't at optimum.
3. One can use a strobe light. the advance one to read degrees that the engine fires at differing RPM's.
4. Until the distributor is either replaced with a good one or fixed, the engine will not run at its best ,
Carl
#51
07-20-2018, 12:27 AM
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Try David at :
Everyday XJ
Held in high regard around here, and for good reason. Good guy, good parts, good service, good pricing
Cheers
DD
Everyday XJ
Held in high regard around here, and for good reason. Good guy, good parts, good service, good pricing
Cheers
DD
#53
07-21-2018, 04:45 AM
#55
07-23-2018, 10:40 PM
#56
07-26-2018, 01:59 PM
Ok quick question... how hard is it to reinstall a distributor? I yanked one out of a junkyard car and everything on it is good so I just want to put it in mine. I know it’s all about the timing, but if the distributor rotor is let’s say perfectly pointing left can the new distributor be put in with it aimed exactly the same? I have never replaced a distributor.
#57
07-26-2018, 05:30 PM
Veteran Member
Ok quick question... how hard is it to reinstall a distributor? I yanked one out of a junkyard car and everything on it is good so I just want to put it in mine. I know it’s all about the timing, but if the distributor rotor is let’s say perfectly pointing left can the new distributor be put in with it aimed exactly the same? I have never replaced a distributor.
Id set the engine to TDC first. Do not rotate it backwards! Forward only.
This is assuming you have the correct dizzy to begin with. The case should be marked.
Last edited by JigJag; 07-26-2018 at 05:33 PM.
#58
07-26-2018, 11:19 PM
As you pull the dizzy out its shaft will rotate to disengage the drive gears. If you set the new one up the same ( match spacing on slotted Allen head screws in the base ) and pre-rotate the shaft to match how your OEM aligned on removal it should be close to the same timing. Ish.
Id set the engine to TDC first. Do not rotate it backwards! Forward only.
This is assuming you have the correct dizzy to begin with. The case should be marked.
#59
07-27-2018, 04:44 AM
yes
Yes if you can line it up exactly the same but you also have to have the distributor in exactly the same position as well and that would be the hardest part
To be out with the rotor, you would have to be a minimum of one tooth, so that would be obvious
But you have to be right on with the position of the distributer
Yes if you can line it up exactly the same but you also have to have the distributor in exactly the same position as well and that would be the hardest part
To be out with the rotor, you would have to be a minimum of one tooth, so that would be obvious
But you have to be right on with the position of the distributer
#60
07-27-2018, 02:28 PM
yes
Yes if you can line it up exactly the same but you also have to have the distributor in exactly the same position as well and that would be the hardest part
To be out with the rotor, you would have to be a minimum of one tooth, so that would be obvious
But you have to be right on with the position of the distributer
Yes if you can line it up exactly the same but you also have to have the distributor in exactly the same position as well and that would be the hardest part
To be out with the rotor, you would have to be a minimum of one tooth, so that would be obvious
But you have to be right on with the position of the distributer
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