What are people's view on replacing the huge A/C compressor with a smaller more efficient compressor that will also allow better air flow and cooling of the engine? If someone has changed out the A?C compressor lit me know how it is working, what the make and model numbers are and how difficult was the change?

Any thoughts on changing the two primary & secondary ignition coils to one more powerful?

 

Many have used updated compressors with good results. I don't know any details. Some use a Sanden. Other use an updated aluminum version of the original A6. They'll chime in.

A single coil is a common update. Google "DAC6093 Jaguar"

Cheers
DD

 

I have used a Sanden for 20 years. Smaller and more efficient. It is a good plan to rebew the condenser at the same time. Renewing the dryer is a must. FWIW I hate the gimcrack dryer fixing method Jaguar used. I replaced mine with a large rubber covered P clips. Much better and easier to remove.

 

I will be replacing mine, getting it out of the V of the engine and hanging an aftermarket smaller one off the side where the air pump lived. That will take most of the mess away from the engine. Then some careful rerouting of hoses, wires, and vacuum lines will really show that engine off.

Get rid of that bus sized Alternator at the same time, and between those two things air will flow through the engine compartment much better. The new compact ones put out plenty of amperage and it won’t look like such a mess.

You won’t find any hoses for your new A/C compressor. Call a hydraulic hose repair shop. They will come out and make you custom lines. ( (probably cheaper than you can buy new OEM lines).
Two things. While you should box the old parts up and save them. I’d definitely go aftermarket ( maybe except under the dash?) That’s so much work to pull out and find parts that will fit and work).
There are plenty of sites on UTube that will show you how to adapt accessories. But if you have no fabrication skills find a HOT RODDER, RACE CAR BUILDER, to do the fabrication. You want all the pulley’s to line up exactly.

 

I mounted a Sanden 4663 where the air pump was located. It really opened up the top of the engine vee.
Start around #72 on my thread to see what I did.

 

The later 6.0 engines went to a Sanden from the factory, so it's certainly doable.

 

If I replace the A/C compressor with the Sanden 4663 does it need the clutch? Does my system need a A/C Accumulator with orifice tubes or Receiver drier with thermal expansion valves? I would like to have a unit that I can easily replace the filter. Does anyone have suggestion of a manufacturer, make and model number?

 

The compressor will need a clutch. You have to match the clutch to the belt type you already have (V, multi groove etc). You already have an expansion valve in your AC system, leave that alone. An orifice tube is a different type of expansion device, not applicable to an XJS.

 

What about cleaning or replacing the air dryer filter? Where is the filter? In some of the threads it said you need to replace the air drier and filter when you replace the condenser.

 

It's considered good practice to replace the receiver/dryer each time the system is opened up. That's the cylindrical tube on top of the radiator header panel. It has a decessant inside to absorb any moisture. The reason is water in the air can react with the fluorine molecules in the refrigerant to make hydroflouric acid and corrode the system from the inside out.

 

The 4663 comes with a clutch and has a two v-belt pulley.

 

The Sanden comes complete with clutch inside it. Just align the pulllies and you are good to go. You can ditch that "can" in the line to the condenser.

 

Thanks for all of the great information. "ditch" the can inline with the condenser. Is this the little red can? What is the can for?

 

It's a muffler and accumulator. Smooths out any surges in the flow from the pistons in the compressor and is a place for any liquid to boil off before it goes back to the compressor.

 

Most of everyone that has replied to my posts are extremely knowledgeable about my questions. I have requested to be a friend or contact. How do you send a copy of the post to a friend or contact to ensure the post has been seen and the contact can provide information regarding the post?

 

I purchased a new Sanden 4663 compressor Mod #SD7H15. I am now looking for a good radiator and fans. I am planning on purchasing a new black plastic fan to replace the yellow fan of death with EBC4553, viscous fan coupling EAC4751 (fan clutch NBC2215AA), jockey pulley EAC8097, main fan bearing EAC3437.

What do think about electric aux. elec fan by Revotec #37-1290, made to order radiator #MHE4190CAJAJ or an aluminum Wizard Cooling products with 2 rows of 1" tubes 3/8" spacing for more rows of tubes fins and coolant? Do the radiators cool the engine coolant and transmission cooling? This unit is made for cooling both with two different fittings for multiple years. There are a lot of Receiver/Dryers any suggestions as to brand and model number?

 

I put the Wizard Cooling radiator + fans on my XJS. It's not a cheap solution but I also believe it's the best option out there. It also helps clean up the front of the engine and reduces drag from the viscous fan.

For receiver/driers you can use any universal o-ring drier. I like this one as you can install a binary/trinary switch to shut off the compressor if the system pressure is too low/high.

Are you planning on making your own hoses or having a shop do it? If you're going to make your own and easy to use. If you think you'll never use it again you can sell it for $75 when you're done and still be ahead of what a shop would charge you for labor. I like ColdHose.com or Nostalgic AC.

If you decide to go with electric fans I can recommend a fan controller.

 

The stock receiver drier works fine with either R12 or R134a, and doesn't cost that much, but should be replaced when converting.

 

I would get a modern thin tube copper core put into the original radiator. I just finished working on a V12 E Type that the owner put a $2K fancy aluminum radiator into and in 500 miles it started leaking because the tanks were not properly braized to the core. Unfortunately, it was over a year old, so no warranty. I took it to a radiator shop and they applied some sort of special epoxy to the corners and it quit leaking. I am not convinced about the quality of the aftermarket radiators out there. If properly maintained, the original system works just fine.

 

l have run an aluminium radiator in my XJRS for around 10 years with no problems whatsoever. You did hit the nail on the head with your mention of brazing however.
Important that the core be a quality furnace brazed unit rather than the cheap epoxied Chinese origin cores.
Mine wasn't cheap at close to 1K AUD, but you get what you pay for.