XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Over Heat

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  #21  
Old 07-05-2022, 03:57 PM
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Have you looked at the radiator fins as suggested?

If they are shot, recon the radiator. If they are really fine then flush the coolant through and pressure flush the rad through from the top.

Paul
 
  #22  
Old 07-05-2022, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Bob 369
Asked my shop it’s about $500 labor and recore. Does that sound about right?
yeah. That’s in the right Zip code these days…

Its worth it. You won’t do better in the aftermarket for significantly less, and you’ll guarantee a perfect fit when done. None of the aftermarkets will go in without some kind of creativity.
 
  #23  
Old 07-06-2022, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain Bob 369
Asked my shop it’s about $500 labor and recore. Does that sound about right?
Source a core, remove the rad yourself in your free time (tough to find these days) and bring the shop the parts - have them do just the recore... Removing the radiator and all involved yourself will teach ya a lot about the car. Also, unless the shop owner is a jag forum member, I would be surprised if the work went oft without issues... Source the core, remove the rad, have them fit core to rad, bring everything home, take your time, and reinstall... Be a fraction of the cost...
 
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  #24  
Old 07-06-2022, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
Also, unless the shop owner is a jag forum member, I would be surprised if the work went oft without issues...
There is absolutely nothing unusual about this radiator. The shop owner most certainly would not need to be a Jag Forum member. I don’t see how that would benefit him in any way.

Ive had mine done and the shop did not even ask what car it belonged to. He was more interested in how the core was destroyed. (My Jag had been stolen and driven into a house). I did the research and found that recoring my radiator was the least complicated, and most cost effective solution.
 

Last edited by Vee; 07-06-2022 at 06:38 AM.
  #25  
Old 07-06-2022, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Vee
There is absolutely nothing unusual about this radiator. The shop owner most certainly would not need to be a Jag Forum member. I don’t see how that would benefit him in any way.

Ive had mine done and the shop did not even ask what car it belonged to. He was more interested in how the core was destroyed. (My Jag had been stolen and driven into a house). I did the research and found that recoring my radiator was the least complicated, and most cost effective solution.
It's not that part, it's the refill, burping and hose routing etc. Or, maybe it's just that I have very poor luck with mechanics in the 2020sss?
 
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Old 07-06-2022, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Vee
There is absolutely nothing unusual about this radiator. The shop owner most certainly would not need to be a Jag Forum member. I don’t see how that would benefit him in any way.

Ive had mine done and the shop did not even ask what car it belonged to. He was more interested in how the core was destroyed. (My Jag had been stolen and driven into a house). I did the research and found that recoring my radiator was the least complicated, and most cost effective solution.
Wait. I just reread your post... You're suggesting what I'm suggesting,,, to bring the rad in... What I was talking about was brining the WHOLE car in and hand the mechanic the keys...
 
  #27  
Old 07-06-2022, 01:47 PM
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A 4 litre is really easy to refill with coolant. Nothing like a v12. Just fill the rad from the right hand fill plug, remove cap from header tank, turn on aircon, start car, warm up, fill up as necessary, cap rad plug, cap header tank, let cool down, check header tank. Easy.

Paul
 
  #28  
Old 07-06-2022, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
It's not that part, it's the refill, burping and hose routing etc. Or, maybe it's just that I have very poor luck with mechanics in the 2020sss?
OP has a facelift 6 cylinder engine. No such challenges for him.
 
  #29  
Old 07-07-2022, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Vee
OP has a facelift 6 cylinder engine. No such challenges for him.
Right, right. I see
 
  #30  
Old 07-10-2022, 07:25 PM
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Since its a 4.0L all he needs to do is confirm the fans are working. Often the relay gets soaked with rain water over the decades and it will eventually fry itself. A relay from an X300 can be used. I bet the relay is not working properly. Other than that its coolant flow issues.
 
  #31  
Old 07-10-2022, 08:43 PM
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Well let’s see here.

The main cooling fan is mechanical. No relay there.

The auxiliary fan does indeed have a relay. If you’re not sure which one it is, see link below:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x.../#&gid=1&pid=1

Swap it out with any other relay, I’d recommend #3.

 
  #32  
Old 07-11-2022, 06:33 PM
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I agree no electrical connection to the mechanical fan. There is a fan that blows across the condenser and that operates. In fact the overheat seamed to take longer with the AC on. It looks like the answer is another fan mounted to the radiator.
 
  #33  
Old 07-11-2022, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Bob 369
I agree no electrical connection to the mechanical fan. There is a fan that blows across the condenser and that operates. In fact the overheat seamed to take longer with the AC on. It looks like the answer is another fan mounted to the radiator.
You shouldn't need that, I have a lot of miles, and run a cool as a cucumber, even with the AC on. I had some problems I think I posed before, bad fan clutch, tons of leaves and pollen, a collapsed hose. But when the system is up to snuff it never gets near overheating. I wouldn't stop trying.
 
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  #34  
Old 07-12-2022, 02:19 AM
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As others have mentioned, the 4 litre does not overheat even in hot climates if everything is working fine.

The key areas that have been suggested are:

- deterioration of the cooling fins (typically lower 1/3rd)
- silted or blocked rad
- collapsing hoses

The answer is probably one of those.

Cheers

Paul
 
  #35  
Old 07-12-2022, 06:20 PM
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For some reason I thought 1995 had twin electrical fans. In this case, its the fan clutch. I just replaced mine and the needle rarely goes past the middle on the temp gauge
 
  #36  
Old 07-12-2022, 06:35 PM
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Thanks for the info, normal running it never goes past the middle. When I spin the fan by hand it maybe makes one revolution which should indicate it’s operating as it supposed to. An additional fan placed on front is the radiator should fix it for parades.
 
  #37  
Old 07-12-2022, 07:53 PM
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Spinning it by hand is not a good indicator of its condition. Try to get a degreaser and clean the front of the fan clutch. They usually get gunked with oil and dirt which will cause the temp sensing portion to not tighten the fan clutch when u need it most. Adding an extra fan is not bad idea, but keep in mind that if you leave it on permanently, it will restrict your airflow at high speeds. I’ll post a pic of what mine looked like when it came out of the car.
 
  #38  
Old 07-12-2022, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Bob 369
. When I spin the fan by hand it maybe makes one revolution which should indicate it’s operating as it supposed to. .
I'd suspect your fan clutch if it does a full revolution. I would have expected about 1/3 of a turn.
 
  #39  
Old 07-12-2022, 08:20 PM
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Your right I did see some black oily looking streaks on the front of the fan. I’ll clean it up for sure. The electric fan operates on a thermostat relay, but it would take up some air space.
Thanks again
 
  #40  
Old 07-12-2022, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
I'd suspect your fan clutch if it does a full revolution. I would have expected about 1/3 of a turn.
I think this is on track.
 
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