Did you actually drive it? Mine was dripping coolant for a bit when I was just running it in the driveway. Following the advice of people here I took it for a 15 minute drive and it hasn’t lost any coolant since.

 

OK, I see your issue with supplies.

This following is well worth noting, and most of what I did was waaaaay before computers and other crazy stuff.

I had 4 of these beasts, same engine, same dash, same radiators, same Efans, etc etc, they were ALL the same, kept my inventory down, and the need to drink more under control a hell of a lot.

The temp gauges were all Female at best (NO disrespect ladies please),

Same brand and Part Number temp sender, Echlin in those days.
The dash all had the "fix", with the dedicated earth lead.

I had an old school Wax Bulb master temp gauge, and used one of the spare holes in the A Bank rear water rail housing.

The master gauge read the temp, and yes, I forget now the numbers 98C I think???,but it matters NOT. The engines were run for 30 minutes, and when the Efan switched ON, the dash gauges were all over the place, but the Master Gauge was within a degree or 2 on all engines.

BUT, what I getting at:

The Blue car, had 4C between the bottom of the "N" and the top of the N.
The Green car had 9C for the same gauge travel.
The White on, Oh Dear, that sucker had to be Blonde, it wavered around all over the place while the Master Gauge sat really solid.
The Red car was 18C bottom to top, and I deemed it be the most reliable of the 4.

Never bothered me, I had NO reference other that what was in my head, the thermostat setting, the radiator temp drop expected, and work from that.

The Red was the Daily car, and that gauge never bothered me, and on interstate trips, sat a needle thickness below the N at all times, A/C on or off, made no difference. What that equated to on the Master Gauge, NO idea, never bothered.

I, and my work people, have never had good readings with these Point and Shoot temp thingies, they pick up too many stray readings. The good old school wax bulb mechanical gauge is the best. Same technology for oil pressure testing, but thats not for this thread.

You need to know what the engine is reading in real time, NOT what the dash thing is trying to say.

 

Ok, this is what I would do: stop worrying, replace the fan clutch and drive it. Then report back.

 

Ok, so, note a for a future viewers with the same clutch problem

no need to remove rad, undo any pipes or connectors, no need to loosen the shroud.

1. unscrew clutch from the pulley
2. unscrew fan from the clutch while everything is still there (just be careful with rad and your hands)
3. clutch slips out easily