Passenger window not working
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Remove the switches and clean the contacts. The switch comes apart quite easily with 2 small screwdrivers one down each side. There are 2 rockers inside clean the contacts with fine sand paper 600+ and reassemble.
There is a modification to add relays that cures this problem forever if you are so inclined let me know and I'll post the cct diagram.
cheers
Warren
There is a modification to add relays that cures this problem forever if you are so inclined let me know and I'll post the cct diagram.
cheers
Warren
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#5
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Do you hear/see any sign that the window is "trying" to operate? A noise, slight movement, dimming of the interior lights when the switch is operated? If so the window might simply be stuck. The felt run channel might be dry (aerosol silicone needed here) or the channel might be damaged (replacement most likely needed). And/or the regulator mechanism might be stuck (try your favorite aerosol lube)
If there's no sign of life at all the window motor might be dead or perhaps you have have a wiring issue bwtween the switch and the motor. With a test light or multi-meter it should be easy to tell if the motor is getting power.
Cheers
DD
If there's no sign of life at all the window motor might be dead or perhaps you have have a wiring issue bwtween the switch and the motor. With a test light or multi-meter it should be easy to tell if the motor is getting power.
Cheers
DD
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csbush (01-06-2022)
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If you have already replaced the switch do as Doug said and check for 12V before and after the switch.
The way the Jag windows work is kinda backwards from most. The motors have +12V on BOTH sides and the switch grounds one side or the other making the window go up or down.
If you don't have a multimeter go and buy yourself one a cheapie is ok that is all I have. Also get a set leads with captive ends so you can clip them onto terminals.
Remove the plug from the motor and check for +12V to ground on both motor wires, NOT across the wires. Then connect the meter across the wires and operate the switch one way will read +12V and the other way will read -12V. If this check out ok then the motor is most likely stuffed. You can confirm this by taking a 12V car battery and connecting it across the window motor.
The reason to check the motor its self is there is a thermal overload protection in the window power circuit and if this is faulty you could have +12V on the wire but not enough current to drive the motor. You can check this by connecting the DMM across the motor and operating the switch, if there is a high resistance the voltage will drop when the switch is operated.
Cheers
Warren
The way the Jag windows work is kinda backwards from most. The motors have +12V on BOTH sides and the switch grounds one side or the other making the window go up or down.
If you don't have a multimeter go and buy yourself one a cheapie is ok that is all I have. Also get a set leads with captive ends so you can clip them onto terminals.
Remove the plug from the motor and check for +12V to ground on both motor wires, NOT across the wires. Then connect the meter across the wires and operate the switch one way will read +12V and the other way will read -12V. If this check out ok then the motor is most likely stuffed. You can confirm this by taking a 12V car battery and connecting it across the window motor.
The reason to check the motor its self is there is a thermal overload protection in the window power circuit and if this is faulty you could have +12V on the wire but not enough current to drive the motor. You can check this by connecting the DMM across the motor and operating the switch, if there is a high resistance the voltage will drop when the switch is operated.
Cheers
Warren
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csbush (01-06-2022)
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#8
That is my plan, I will be getting a tester this week and will do what Doug is suggesting and post what I find out. I did take the switch apart, not a problem as you indicated, thanks.
I assume I will need to take the door panel off to get to the motor...a big job? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
John
I assume I will need to take the door panel off to get to the motor...a big job? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
John
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#11
Hi,
new problem just cropped up, I think a radiator hose just burst. Was parked in driveway and huge amount of steam started to pour out of hood, opened hood and could see a spray of coolant hitting side of engine from the drivers side just under the air intake. Is this something I can handle if I find the hose that is leaking?
Thanks,
John
new problem just cropped up, I think a radiator hose just burst. Was parked in driveway and huge amount of steam started to pour out of hood, opened hood and could see a spray of coolant hitting side of engine from the drivers side just under the air intake. Is this something I can handle if I find the hose that is leaking?
Thanks,
John
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Hi,
I did get a new switch, plugged it in and nothing happened. I did take the old switch out, but did not clean it since I had tried the replacement switch. I bought a tester and will be starting my search this weekend. When you say check the motor...are you suggesting I take the door panel off and check power coming to the connector when the switch is pressed?
Thanks for your help,
John
I did get a new switch, plugged it in and nothing happened. I did take the old switch out, but did not clean it since I had tried the replacement switch. I bought a tester and will be starting my search this weekend. When you say check the motor...are you suggesting I take the door panel off and check power coming to the connector when the switch is pressed?
Thanks for your help,
John