Photos Of The JagZilla Project
#1
Photos Of The JagZilla Project
I've had a few people ask to see photos of the various mods I am doing to JagZilla. I have posted several pix in my garage. I think you can follow this link:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...jagzilla-5508/
More pix to come as things evolve further.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...jagzilla-5508/
More pix to come as things evolve further.
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JimC64 (09-24-2012)
#3
Duplicolor 500 degree for the red and black. Duplicolor 1200 degree for the aluminum color. I also powder coated some of the smaller parts using the Eastwood Powder Coat system, and a small toaster oven in my garage.
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Sarc (09-24-2012)
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The rear shocks are Spax gas shocks, and are fully adjustable for firmness and ride height. Unfortunately, I have yet to feel how they ride because they were transferred to JagZilla along with the entire 3.54:1 rear end assembly from the wrecked 89 donor.
Here is their website: SPAX Coilovers Shocks Suspension Kits Springs
Here is their website: SPAX Coilovers Shocks Suspension Kits Springs
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#9
I am getting about 220 RWHP through a 4 speed auto and 0 to 60 7.2 sec.
#11
Basically I am transferring some major performance parts from a wrecked 89 XJS convertible into my 84 coupe. Because of the condition of the donor car, and the differences between an 89 convertible and an 84 coupe, I am having to rebuild, repair, fabricate, and sometimes reinvent various components, assemblies, and wiring as I go along.
JagZilla was already a fairly strong performing modified XJS, with ported heads, gutted cats, smog pump removed, upgraded cooling, 180 amp GM alternator, 1600 watt stereo, free-flowing 2.25" exhaust w/ Flowmaster 40s & Monza resonators, a Trans-Go shift kit which allowed me to hold 1st and 2nd gear to redline, and a few other mods.
Unfortunately, I blew a fuel injector hose on the B bank, at around 145mph, during a street race with a WS6 Firehawk Trans Am. That caused a severe "lean" condition in that cylinder, at exactly the time when it could do the most damage. It either burned the valves, or possibly burned a hole in that piston (I haven't torn that engine down yet). The car still ran after that (still had 11 good cylinders), but, it smoked, and performance was down. Since the car was my daily driver, I kept it on the road for several more months, until I happened to be corresponding with a fellow member of Jag- Lovers, who had the wrecked 89 with the GTJ-built motor, Richmond 6-speed, 3.54:1 differential, and many other nice upgrades. We struck a deal, and I have been working on the project ever since.
Here is what I said about the project in my New Member introduction thread, last week:
"It was supposed to be a fairly quick project, since most of the cool stuff was simply being transferred from the wrecked '89. It turned out to not be so simple, because Jaguar made quite a few changes between '84 and '89 with no regard for backward compatibility. Other components were bent, mangled, or otherwise damaged in the wreck. So I've had to modify certain things, and fabricate others just to get stuff to work. During that time, I've gotten distracted several times, and also, life kind of got in the way on more than one occasion. I'm still scratching my head, trying to figure out how to make a few things work, but, I hope to have it back on the road before the cold weather sets in here in the southern US. At that point I will be able to concentrate on possible body mods, and badly needed paint."
Pix of the donor car can be seen here:
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#14
2. Copper coolant pipes to replace the rusty, leak-prone steel pipes. Obviously with new top hat seals, and mounted to the heads using the newer Gortex gaskets (EBC 9634), instead of the flimsy paper.
3. 18 inch 2900cfm Permacool electric radiator fan. This cools far better than the stock, belt-driven fan, and has the added benefit of reducing parasitic HP drain by eliminating a belt.
4. Tefba coolant filters. One in each of the upper radiator hoses. Keep them checked and clean.
5. Coolant system flush port installed in the heater hose which crosses over the rear of the "A" bank (U.S. spec passenger side). Used to help bleed air out of the cooling system (when sitting level, this is the highest point of the XJS cooling system).
6. V12-correct 190 degree thermostats aligned with the air hole/jiggle pins in the 12 o'clock position.
7. Modified radiator banjo bolt with thicker (better sealing) copper washers.
Additionally, there is a recently developed modification that can be done to the coolant pipe manifold. I't's commonly being called the Lutz Mod, after it's developer, Norman Lutz. I have not yet tried this mod, but, others have, with great success. It is detailed in several posts at Jag-Lovers. You can also read a description and see pix of it here:
V8 Powered MGB-GT: Cooling system mods
#16
I read about your ordeal on the Overheating thread. It sounds like you paid your dues there, and I hope you now have a handle on that drinking problem. Hopefully your experience will help that other guy get past his cooling problems with fewer complications than you experienced.
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I ported the heads myself. I found an old Popular Hotrodding article online, and dove in. I burned up a brand new Dremel, hundreds of sanding rolls, and clogged many burrs with aluminum, but, I was able to open the ports by several millimeters. However, I was told by someone experienced in porting, that I probably got too aggressive with the bronze valve guides. I cut them down flush with the port walls. I'll simply replace the guides when I build the motor, and I won't be heavy-handed with the Dremel or die grinder.
I used to have a good comparison photo of stock vs my porting, but, it was on the hard drive of a long-dead PC. Since I don't currently have the intakes on either motor right now, I may be able to recreate that photo with my old motor and the ports on the GTJ motor.
I don't have any dyno charts on the GTJ motor, because that was done by the P.O.
I'm not planning to sell the motor, as it, and my original rear diff/suspension assembly will be used in a future project.
#20
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