Pictures of my leaky trans
#21
02-22-2017, 09:04 PM
Those slotted hex setscrews are NOT Jaguar, so it has been "maybe" modified.
Undo that 3/4 af locknut, undo those 2 setscrews, and retrieve those 2 spacers. Those setcrews go into the trans casing, so there should be 2 nuts between that welded bracket and the pan, these 2 nuts secure the pan, and are near impossible to get at, so a very fiddly exercise at best. Then when carefully lowering that plate watch out for a double welded washer, and a spacer sleeve, they usually fall out and roll away.
As Greg mentioned, there is a "special" washer up inside the mount bushing. They rarely fall out, and should NOT fall out, but since we are into the unknown, watch out for that also.
That MAY give you enough wiggle room to remove that pan.
I found it too silly for words, and then the re-install, whilst keeping the gasket in place was just plain hilarious. The angle of the dangle is just not there.
Without that vertical welded arrangement, the pan simple drops down vertically, and replacement is equally as easy.
Removing that welded bit requires lowering the trans mount triangle and that spring. A god few hours work, and LOTS of care needed. Somewhere here in cyber space, I have a PDF for removing it, so if you want it, simply ask, and I will go searching for it, or write a new one.
Undo that 3/4 af locknut, undo those 2 setscrews, and retrieve those 2 spacers. Those setcrews go into the trans casing, so there should be 2 nuts between that welded bracket and the pan, these 2 nuts secure the pan, and are near impossible to get at, so a very fiddly exercise at best. Then when carefully lowering that plate watch out for a double welded washer, and a spacer sleeve, they usually fall out and roll away.
As Greg mentioned, there is a "special" washer up inside the mount bushing. They rarely fall out, and should NOT fall out, but since we are into the unknown, watch out for that also.
That MAY give you enough wiggle room to remove that pan.
I found it too silly for words, and then the re-install, whilst keeping the gasket in place was just plain hilarious. The angle of the dangle is just not there.
Without that vertical welded arrangement, the pan simple drops down vertically, and replacement is equally as easy.
Removing that welded bit requires lowering the trans mount triangle and that spring. A god few hours work, and LOTS of care needed. Somewhere here in cyber space, I have a PDF for removing it, so if you want it, simply ask, and I will go searching for it, or write a new one.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 02-22-2017 at 09:17 PM.
#22
02-22-2017, 09:57 PM
Those slotted hex setscrews are NOT Jaguar, so it has been "maybe" modified.
Undo that 3/4 af locknut, undo those 2 setscrews, and retrieve those 2 spacers. Those setcrews go into the trans casing, so there should be 2 nuts between that welded bracket and the pan, these 2 nuts secure the pan, and are near impossible to get at, so a very fiddly exercise at best. Then when carefully lowering that plate watch out for a double welded washer, and a spacer sleeve, they usually fall out and roll away.
As Greg mentioned, there is a "special" washer up inside the mount bushing. They rarely fall out, and should NOT fall out, but since we are into the unknown, watch out for that also.
That MAY give you enough wiggle room to remove that pan.
I found it too silly for words, and then the re-install, whilst keeping the gasket in place was just plain hilarious. The angle of the dangle is just not there.
Without that vertical welded arrangement, the pan simple drops down vertically, and replacement is equally as easy.
Removing that welded bit requires lowering the trans mount triangle and that spring. A god few hours work, and LOTS of care needed. Somewhere here in cyber space, I have a PDF for removing it, so if you want it, simply ask, and I will go searching for it, or write a new one.
Undo that 3/4 af locknut, undo those 2 setscrews, and retrieve those 2 spacers. Those setcrews go into the trans casing, so there should be 2 nuts between that welded bracket and the pan, these 2 nuts secure the pan, and are near impossible to get at, so a very fiddly exercise at best. Then when carefully lowering that plate watch out for a double welded washer, and a spacer sleeve, they usually fall out and roll away.
As Greg mentioned, there is a "special" washer up inside the mount bushing. They rarely fall out, and should NOT fall out, but since we are into the unknown, watch out for that also.
That MAY give you enough wiggle room to remove that pan.
I found it too silly for words, and then the re-install, whilst keeping the gasket in place was just plain hilarious. The angle of the dangle is just not there.
Without that vertical welded arrangement, the pan simple drops down vertically, and replacement is equally as easy.
Removing that welded bit requires lowering the trans mount triangle and that spring. A god few hours work, and LOTS of care needed. Somewhere here in cyber space, I have a PDF for removing it, so if you want it, simply ask, and I will go searching for it, or write a new one.
#23
02-23-2017, 04:22 AM
You will be fine, drink JD first, JUST KIDDING, its been a loooooong day.
When you undo that big nut, loosen it a few turns. Remove the 2 setscrews, then hold the plate in place, remove the big nut, lower that plate watching for the spacer and welded washer.
The spring, that will break your wrist, is kept in place by that large triangle bracket. Your intimate relationship with all that will be in your very near future, trust me.
When you undo that big nut, loosen it a few turns. Remove the 2 setscrews, then hold the plate in place, remove the big nut, lower that plate watching for the spacer and welded washer.
The spring, that will break your wrist, is kept in place by that large triangle bracket. Your intimate relationship with all that will be in your very near future, trust me.
#24
02-23-2017, 03:23 PM
You will be fine, drink JD first, JUST KIDDING, its been a loooooong day.
When you undo that big nut, loosen it a few turns. Remove the 2 setscrews, then hold the plate in place, remove the big nut, lower that plate watching for the spacer and welded washer.
The spring, that will break your wrist, is kept in place by that large triangle bracket. Your intimate relationship with all that will be in your very near future, trust me.
When you undo that big nut, loosen it a few turns. Remove the 2 setscrews, then hold the plate in place, remove the big nut, lower that plate watching for the spacer and welded washer.
The spring, that will break your wrist, is kept in place by that large triangle bracket. Your intimate relationship with all that will be in your very near future, trust me.
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (02-23-2017)
#25
02-24-2017, 04:03 AM
Veteran Member
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/
The problem with pulling the pan out forwards is getting it back in once it is gasketed up. So it is likely that, until the collision bracket is modified, you will have to remove the triangular bracket to replace the pan. If so, this is when the more dangerous part occurs. Think of the gearbox tail as sitting on a spring that is itself sitting on a shelf (the triangular bracket) the shelf being bolted to the car chassis. IF you undo the shelf the weight of the gearbox tail and the spring it is compressing will fall downwards.
Therefore, you have to support the gearbox tail somehow when you undo the triangular bracket. Do this by placing a bit of wood across the pan and slightly taking the weight of the box on a jack under the wood. Then undo the triangular bracket carefully using the method I suggest in the above link, or by carefully taking the spring compressive force with a second jack under the spring seat as you undo the triangular bracket.
Then once that is all done, the second jack can be placed directly under the tail of the box, the support under the pan removed, and the pan undone. The collision bracket can then be modified, (see pic attached) to remove the bit of it that does up to the two pan bolts. Then in future, the pan removal is dead easy.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 02-24-2017 at 04:08 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (02-24-2017)
#26
02-24-2017, 04:56 AM
See if, when the big nut is off and the bolts at the rear of the cover that also attach the collision bracket to the pan are undone, the pan can be slid out forwards. If it cannot be, then you will have to undo the triangular bracket that holds the spring. The safest way I have found to do this is described here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/
The problem with pulling the pan out forwards is getting it back in once it is gasketed up. So it is likely that, until the collision bracket is modified, you will have to remove the triangular bracket to replace the pan. If so, this is when the more dangerous part occurs. Think of the gearbox tail as sitting on a spring that is itself sitting on a shelf (the triangular bracket) the shelf being bolted to the car chassis. IF you undo the shelf the weight of the gearbox tail and the spring it is compressing will fall downwards.
Therefore, you have to support the gearbox tail somehow when you undo the triangular bracket. Do this by placing a bit of wood across the pan and slightly taking the weight of the box on a jack under the wood. Then undo the triangular bracket carefully using the method I suggest in the above link, or by carefully taking the spring compressive force with a second jack under the spring seat as you undo the triangular bracket.
Then once that is all done, the second jack can be placed directly under the tail of the box, the support under the pan removed, and the pan undone. The collision bracket can then be modified, (see pic attached) to remove the bit of it that does up to the two pan bolts. Then in future, the pan removal is dead easy.
Greg
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/
The problem with pulling the pan out forwards is getting it back in once it is gasketed up. So it is likely that, until the collision bracket is modified, you will have to remove the triangular bracket to replace the pan. If so, this is when the more dangerous part occurs. Think of the gearbox tail as sitting on a spring that is itself sitting on a shelf (the triangular bracket) the shelf being bolted to the car chassis. IF you undo the shelf the weight of the gearbox tail and the spring it is compressing will fall downwards.
Therefore, you have to support the gearbox tail somehow when you undo the triangular bracket. Do this by placing a bit of wood across the pan and slightly taking the weight of the box on a jack under the wood. Then undo the triangular bracket carefully using the method I suggest in the above link, or by carefully taking the spring compressive force with a second jack under the spring seat as you undo the triangular bracket.
Then once that is all done, the second jack can be placed directly under the tail of the box, the support under the pan removed, and the pan undone. The collision bracket can then be modified, (see pic attached) to remove the bit of it that does up to the two pan bolts. Then in future, the pan removal is dead easy.
Greg
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (02-24-2017)