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Fuel system mostly done, so moving onto ignition and will use this thread for this and any issues I have from here until this thing fires up.
New plugs are NGK BP5EY & new Bosch leads.
Dizzy cap & rotor, I'm leaving these in place for now, any reason to change them now? I have put a drop of oil in, it does rotate and flick back although a little sticky
white inside?
And how are these plugs looking, any concerns?
This car has not started for "more than" 5 years.
The cap and rotor, probably OK, as they look fine in the snaps.
Those Bosch plugs are newish, but getting grubby, common on the PreHE if its a hard starter, or gets started and shut down before getting to temp, as they overfuel in a heartbeat.
That drops of oil, I would use a few drops of Synthetic ATF now as a follow up. The PreHE distributor is NOT as fussy as the HE unit as far as sticky goes.
The trigger board can be an issue. The original was a 3 wire, and had Reed Switches imbedded, PITA even under Warranty. The replacement is a Board and Rotor package, and is a 4 wire unit. The 4th wire goes to 12V Ign feed, and it has Hall Effect Sensors Imbedded. It will outlast the car.
That Plastic wheel has 12 ferrite rods as the trigger system. They fall out, gravity be a mongrel. A drop of Super Glue on the top of each rod is the fix, maybe already been done, maybe not.
That is assuming it is still running the Opus System, most have a Crane down here.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 01-07-2021 at 05:52 AM.
Have put everything back together now, tried starting and nothing but cranking and a little cough here and there.
Haven't had time to keep troubleshooting this weekend (sunny here and the kids want beach), tried again yesterday and the same.
Gave it another whirl today and BLOODY HELL ... as per the clip.
Was going to start going through the "no start" sticky, but given it starts but doesn't stay started Im not sure where to go from.
Couple things of note:
- starts every time now for a few seconds but only with the throttle at full bore.
- Oil gauge is 100 with ignition on and immediately drops to zero when it starts
- Took oil cap off and it seems oil is getting up, spurted a little out with some smoke too
I reckon that running is from:
1) The cold start Injector squirt, that only lasts as long as the starter is operating.
2) When you opened that throttle, the segments in the TPS have triggered the Injectors about 9 times, and that fuel is giving you running for a few seconds.
Suggestions:
Look at the flat wiring loom exiting th erear of the dizzy, and count the wires, either 3 or 4.
Depending on your count, the test is different. I will wait.
The gauge sender is reverse OHMS to normal.
1) Normal = zero OHMS at rest, and rising with pressure that shows on the gauge.
2) Jag is OHMS (and I forget the number 650 is ringing something) at rest, and as the pressure rises the OHMS drops and the gauge rises, only in a Jag, haha.
If you connect the gauge wire to the idiot light sender, scenario #1 will be the result.
1) Using your volt meter, ensure there is 12vish in that wire with the Ign ON.
2) if so, move on. If NO then find the end and attach to a 12V Ign ON terminal. Push to shove as a temp, use the +ve of the coil. NOT the best as that car runs a ballasted Ignition system, so maybe 9V at best, but it will work, mine did for testing 25 years ago.
3) Remove the dist cap, remove the rotor, look for the magnet. It is NOT hidden, it is clearly visible, and make sure it is stil a madnet, simple.
4) Trigger board test. You will need a strong magnet. I use one of $5 magnet on a stick from Supercheap and the like. SILENCE will be needed. Ign ON, wave that magnet over one end of that trigger board, and 6 Injectors will "click". Wave it over the other end, and the other 6 will "click". Ensuring all 12 are clicking will need a helper, maybe? Placing your hands/fingers on a bank of Injectors while testing will confirm by feel that they are firing, and there is not an issue with the loom, then the other bank. FIDDLY, hell yes, but doable.
Thtas it for the Injector pulse trigger.
If the Injectors do not fire with the waving, I suspect a trigger board, RARE for a 4 wire. OR, the loom, RARE for a PreHE, even at 40+ years old.
Main issues I have had with that system:
No magnet.
Trigger board no got 12v via that Black/Red wire.
Loom, only 1 in 12 Pre HE cars.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 01-10-2021 at 06:29 AM.
Thanks again, I'm a little confused about something.
1/2: The red/black wire goes to the 3 pronged connector, into the exposed pin as per this pic. I have measured the incoming source and it is not 12v.
That loose wire splices into another which connects into the middle pin of the ballast resistor, this measures 11.5v
3: Definitely a magnet there and it has enough pull to pick up an 18mm socket
4: no clicks.
I followed the injector loom, it goes to a neat 8pronged connector to the front amplifier, all looks innocent. The rest of the loom goes to a couple of relays near the brake booster... they look a right mess! loose, split very guilty looking.
The 3 pin socket simply plugs into the chassis loom, where the original 3 wire board did. The loose wire is the 12v feed. Stray wires spliced here and there, not good.
The rest sounds scary. Freddy Fiddler has been in there.
So after a little (a lot!) more mucking around, the Jag is finally firing and idling. Was taken for her first drive in 20 years today.... she's a little rough, noisy and smoky... but she's doing well.
Could not have done it without this forum.
Lots more fun coming up as I sort out the cooling system and multitude of electrical fiddly bits and pieces, but she's awake!